Tube Rolling w/Crack
- Thread starter Dr. Toobz
- Start date
Grainger49
New member
Longest thread, by number of posts, on the board.
I think that shows the enthusiasm for the Crack, or the level of addiction. Either way!
I think that shows the enthusiasm for the Crack, or the level of addiction. Either way!
Grainger49
New member
Brad,
If I am following you you need to get more turn from your volume pot. It gets loud too early, right?
If so then changing the pot, or the resistance of the pot will not make a difference in the range of travel or resolution in the volume control. If you put in a nice $4 resistor before the existing pot it will make a difference.
For instance, if you had a 10k (audio taper) volume control at 9:00 you will have the same volume in your headsets as you do now with the 100k volume control.
To make a difference you have to waste some of the incoming voltage with a series resistor.
If I am following you you need to get more turn from your volume pot. It gets loud too early, right?
If so then changing the pot, or the resistance of the pot will not make a difference in the range of travel or resolution in the volume control. If you put in a nice $4 resistor before the existing pot it will make a difference.
For instance, if you had a 10k (audio taper) volume control at 9:00 you will have the same volume in your headsets as you do now with the 100k volume control.
To make a difference you have to waste some of the incoming voltage with a series resistor.
Grainger,
I have room to change the volume to a listenable level, so I'm not that concerned. I was just wondering if others were experiencing the same thing. Now if the problem was that as soon as raised the volume it was too loud I would have a major issue.
If I do feel like I need to attenuate the volume I will probably use the Goldpoint solution that Desmond posted earlier.
Brad
I have room to change the volume to a listenable level, so I'm not that concerned. I was just wondering if others were experiencing the same thing. Now if the problem was that as soon as raised the volume it was too loud I would have a major issue.
If I do feel like I need to attenuate the volume I will probably use the Goldpoint solution that Desmond posted earlier.
Brad
s1,
Yes the CIFTE is a very nice driver, but I think that the Mullard 4003 box plate is a little better. It adds a little more to the mid range. I have to say that the drive seems to make the biggest difference in sound as compared to any of the power tubes I have tried, i.e. 6080, 6AS7G, or 5998. I want to try a couple of different drives and see what they sound like.
Brad
Yes the CIFTE is a very nice driver, but I think that the Mullard 4003 box plate is a little better. It adds a little more to the mid range. I have to say that the drive seems to make the biggest difference in sound as compared to any of the power tubes I have tried, i.e. 6080, 6AS7G, or 5998. I want to try a couple of different drives and see what they sound like.
Brad
Just to add to the many variants of the Crack out there, I'm now running a 7236 in the power socket, and an E80CC in the driver position, with 330uF low-ESR Panasonic electrolytics bypassed by some 1uF Solens I had laying around. This arrangement seems to work very well into my low-ish impedance AKG's (K702; 62 ohm). The sound is very clean and well-controlled, with low apparent distortion.
Noskipallwd
New member
Angelo, so you like the E80CC as a driver in the Crack, what brand do you have? A friend offered a couple of phillips mini-watts, maybe I should take him up on that.
Cheers,
Shawn
Cheers,
Shawn
Noskipallwd said:
It's an Amperex tube, made in Holland, per the label. It also says "premium quality" and has gold-plated pins.
I recently swapped in a 1950's Sylvania 12BH7, a 2009 Electro-Harmonix 12BH7, a 1960's 5963, and a 1960's RCA clear-top 12AU7 to see if what I am hearing is just my imagination. It's not. The E80CC has, by far, the deepest bass, biggest soundstage, and most extended treble of all. Not a bad investment!
gh0st
New member
I read Paul's comments, although that part of the thread seems to deviate away from being Crack-specific, or at least is inconclusive.
It sounds like a few people have used them with success, I'm just wondering if they modded their circuits to accommodate the spec differences of the E80CC or not.
It sounds like a few people have used them with success, I'm just wondering if they modded their circuits to accommodate the spec differences of the E80CC or not.
petercintn
New member
Since I've had this built I've been using the Sylvania 6080WC and an Electro-Harmonix ECC82 that doc sent me. I had an RCA 6AS7G and a Tung-SOl 12AU7W that I didn't like as well. I received a Rohre Siemens E82CC and I'm not sure but I think it is brand new, not NOS. Could be wrong, don't know enough to really tell. Still, it has brought out the bass to where the RCA now sounds great with this little wonder. In fact now the RCA sounds better than the Sylvania. I'm not impressed with the bass response with the Tung-Sol or the Elctro-Harmonix with the RCA so the 6080 sounds better to me with those two.
But I am rocking to this Siemens E82CC and RCA 6AS7G sound.
But I am rocking to this Siemens E82CC and RCA 6AS7G sound.
I just got the CBS 5814A in and really like it with the 5998. I like it better then the Mullard 4003 so far. This seems to be the best combo with the 5998 that I have heard. I will have to give it a try with the 6AS7G and 6080s in have.
I think the next tube I want to try is the Sylvania 12BH7.
The amp has been so much fun.
I think the next tube I want to try is the Sylvania 12BH7.
The amp has been so much fun.
Just rolled in a NOS RCA 12AU7 clear top. Good sounding tube with the RCA 6AS7G. Really brought out the treble and loss a little on the bottom end compaired to the EH and Phillips Mini watt. I'll give this one a little time but still think the Mini watt is my favorite so far. Want to try a 12BH7 and E80cc but keep getting out bid. Some of the prices are just crazy.
