Tube Rolling w/Crack

That's a big question! Which mullard 12au7? The CV4003 is the most linear of the mullards with amazing staging and depth, though to my ears the lower midrange seems a tad muted sometimes. They are also resonably priced if you shop around (30-50 bucks). A mullard long-plate, D getter is fantastic in other ways...and my Mullard long-plate, double post halo getter is one of my favs.

The telefunken smooth plate is also a favorite. can seem somewhat "thin" compared to the mullard but has amazing hi-end sparkle, clarity air and detail, and great soundstage too. You really need to get both!!!! but if push came to shove...wow...I have 4 of each (cv4003 and smooth plate Teles)...do the Telefunkens first, then get a CV4003!?

PS...There are others out there (of coarse), like 50's bugle boys, siemens chrome plates, and amperex 7136's that you may like even more!!!
 
I have been using the Mullard CV4003 and Mazda/Cifte 12AU7. I like the Mullard a lot nice full 3 dimensional sound, but I have been spending more time with the Mazda. I find the sound more linear and natural to my ears, but I could live with either. I think they are both great tubes.

Now I want to see about a different power triode.
 
BNAL said:
I have been using the Mullard CV4003 and Mazda/Cifte 12AU7. I like the Mullard a lot nice full 3 dimensional sound, but I have been spending more time with the Mazda. I find the sound more linear and natural to my ears, but I could live with either. I think they are both great tubes.

Now I want to see about a different power triode.

I have a Cifte 12AU7 comming. Can't wait. What power triode are u using?
 
I'm still using the GE 6080 that came with the kit. Not sure what to try next. I have been looking at the RCA 6as7g black plate, but really want to get the 5998. I'm keeping my eyes open for a good deal on either.
 
Unless things have changed drastically in the last 8 or 9 months, the RCA 6AS7's should be pretty plentiful and inexpensive.  I picked up a couple NOS back then and I dont think they were more than $15, if that.  I also picked up a 2 or 3 more used under 10 bucks (GE Jan and RCA).  One used RCA was a bit weak but aside from that ...  they seemed pretty plentiful and were inexpensive.  All were from ebay where I dont mind buying and taking the chance if they dont cost much. 
 
For what it's worth, and based on the specs, the 6080-WA, WB, and WC are longer-life, vibration resistant, and better balanced between sections. I've seen specs from Raytheon and Tung-Sol but don't know who else might have made them.
 
Nice choice! Can't wait to hear your impressions, especially when compared with stock.

BTW, My crack came with a Bendix. It is one solid tank of a toob, and sounds solid and detailed (with my 57 Mullard 12au7).

But a little harsh and fatiguing on top at moderate to high volumes. Maybe a bit thin too...?

Anyone compare 6080's much? would love to hear what others might have heard when comparing the stock Bendix with a

6080WA JAN Tung Sol, nickel base vs. GB6080 Sylvania Gold Brand, ceramic base, or 6080 Genalex CV2984 military type, or any other

6080!
 
Hiya All,

Have just tried a Philips Miniwatt 12AU7 (no idea how old it is, or what condition) with my Russian Winged C 6H13C (OTK 76).
The getter looks sorta like a small split keyring on an angle.

This Philips tube sounds great. Preferring it to my Mullard CV 4003.
It's very slightly brighter, but sounds more open and more "real" to my ears.
Seems to be more "real" detail in the sound of acoustic bass (ie texture is clearer).

Nice tube.

Cheers,

John T
 
Hi, Is the getter at a 30 degree angle? Might be a Valvo in disguise ?? Which are highly regarded and similar sonics to telefunkens.
 
jrihs said:
Hi, Is the getter at a 30 degree angle? Might be a Valvo in disguise ?? Which are highly regarded and similar sonics to telefunkens.

Hi John,

It looks like this:

Philips-Miniwatt-12AU7-001.jpg


I got it with a batch of other 12AU7s (Tungsrams, a GE, an EH & a Sylvania 12AU7A) from a guitarist mate who builds / restores valve guitar amps.
He got them off some old techo guy who didn't want them anymore. My mate is into old Fender circuits - they don't use 12AU7s so he gave them to me.
Also included an old Mullard, which was found to be stuffed when used in my Crack so it got tossed  
cry_1.gif
.

Listening to these albums tonight (actually Sunday morning in Oz):

Folder-1.jpg
 
Folder.jpg


The Mahler esp. sounds sublime. Very sweet on the strings, beautiful natural ambience bloom on the horns, and non-bright detail everywhere.

0 FLAC 44.1 -> FooBar WASAPI -> USB input of Meier Audio StageDAC -> BH Crack, via Blue Jeans top of the line Belden I/C -> Beyer DT 880 600 ohm Manufakturs.
Crack has TKD pot, Kimber input wire and upgraded RCAs.

Also just put a Mundorf .01 uf Supreme silver/gold/oil cap on the last PS electro in the Crack as a bypass.
Just coz I had it lyin' around (forgot what it was meant for).
No idea if it really does anything, but the amp is sounding great to me at the moment.

Cheers,

John
 
Sweet! Looks like a 45 (not 30 degree, I meant 45) angle from here. I keep getting outbid on em at ebay. try try again!
A little off post but hows the mundorf workin out ? much effect?

PS, I'm envious of your picture posting abilities...
 
jrihs said:
Sweet! Looks like a 45 (not 30 degree, I meant 45) angle from here. I keep getting outbid on em at ebay. try try again!

Here's a better shot for working out angle - looks like 45 degrees to me:

Philips-Miniwatt-12AU7-002.jpg


jrihs said:
A little off post but hows the mundorf workin out ? much effect?

TBH, I don't know if I'll ever know. All I know the amp is sounding great at present.  
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I only did it coz I had the part lyin' around, and I thought it couldn't hurt as someone else tried a similar thing and thought it improved things.

jrihs said:
PS, I'm envious of your picture posting abilities...

That's very kind of you to say so. I use Photobucket for image hosting.
The valve shots are mine, the album covers are just the folder images I got from an online DB that is used by my ripping S/W (dBPoweramp).
I just use a DSLR in Auto (coz I'm lazy). Also use graphics S/W for cropping, sharpening and adjusting.

Cheers,

John
 
Which tube the input or power tube make the most impact on sound?  I've played around with the input one.  Tried a Mullard, Amperex Bugle Boy, RCA and stock.  They all sound very, good.
 
Lextek,

I have not had much Chance to test a lot of different tubes with the amp, but it seems to me that the 12AU7 seems to make the biggest difference. My amp came with an EH 12AU7, which I believe is the standard tube and a Westinghouse 6080. These tubes produce a very nice sound that blows most headphone amps away. The first tube I changed was the EH 12AU7 since I have used it in my Foreplay III and found that it made a big difference using a good NOS tube. For the Crack I have tried the Mullard 4003 and CITFE 12AU7. Both are great tubes and sound great, but for some reason that I can't explain I've been using the CITFE. I think that I find it to be a little cleaner sounding. What I mean is that to my ears it does not seem to put any extra emphasis on the sound. It is a little flatter across the frequency spectrum that appeals to me. Don't get me Wrong I could live very easily with either of these tubes.

As for the 6080, I have only heard 2 6080s. The Westinghouse and now a Mullard. I like the Mullard a little better, but it is not by much, and could be that I just got it in and it is new. The one thing that I know for sure is that upgrading the EH 12AU7 is going to give you the biggest improvement.

That is my two cents so take it for what it is worth.

Brad
 
I was looking around for tubes and came across this site http://www.vacuumtubes.com/12au7.html and they say that a 7730 is a replacement for the 12au7 but after a quick search here I found nothing and it is not listed as a drop in on OP.  Is it or not? I'm just starting with tubes really and don't know how to judge if it (7730) will work in the Crack.  Thanks.

Peter
 
I wouldnt swear on it but I believe that the 7730 is a sub.  This was a tube that I has some interest in about 10 years ago when I first built a couple components that used 12AU7's.  Based on the relatively few listening impressions I did find on these tubes, I decided not to chase them.  Doesnt meant they are poor, just didnt seem to be my cup of tea.  If I recall correctly, they were pretty hard to find back then, I imagine it's harder now.
 
Laudanum said:
  If I recall correctly, they were pretty hard to find back then, I imagine it's harder now.

Oh man, I don't even mention publicly what tubes I like anymore. Next thing I know they are unobtainium.
 
jrihs said:
There are about 16 listed on ebay. Most (Pan Getters) well over $200! I'd be interested in hearing your impressions. Have you a 421a to compare with? is yours a pan or halo getter?
Thanks


GEC 6AS7 A1834, I think I should of said the tube was hard to find on an auction. I paid a lot less than the dealer prices, 60 dollars. Its a little cleaner(less distortion) to my ear and the sound stage sounds deeper, more 3d to me. It also still retains the punch of the 5998. I noticed that others like the Russian ones, sounded clear, but feeble, less punch, than the 5998's.  Sorry it took so long to answer.
 
I would like to thank Bottlehead for this amp. I have modified it quite a bit, but the kit gave me somewhere to start. The only reason I modified was because of the tubes I already have. A bunch of 12sn7's. Now that I have about 7-800  hours on it, it sounds great. I am not disappointed in the least. Also saved a bunch of money over what this would of cost from someone like Manley.
 
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