Surprise!

Is there an issue with paralleling more pairs of outputs. I was thinking to use it to consolidate all my analog sources and feed 3 other amps and active subs in stereo configuration.
 
It's a passive control, so the output impedance is relatively high, at least at one end of the range. For multiple amps you would want a lot of drive and low output impedance. That's where an active preamp with low output impedance like the BeePre comes in.
 
All the amps I would be running to have their own volume controls and preamps. Such as a future quickie/class D amp combo, Yamaha integrated amp, sub amps, and an AV receiver for Zone 2 use on the patio. The sub amps and the Quickie combo would be the only ones that would need to go through the attenuator.
 
Not real sure. I don't currently own a sub, but I thinking of getting one in the future. What should I look for?
 
A question.  If you leave the stock pot in a Crack and hook up a Submissive and put the Crack at full volume and used the Submissive for the volume wouldn't the sound still be affected by the stock pot in the Crack?....because basically you want to  bypass the potright?

...or would it be better to have a better pot in the Crack and  then get a Submissive?

hopefully you understand my question

thanks...Dave
 
If having the pot in the circuit bothers you, you can remove the pot and replace it with a pair of $4 or $6 resistors.  Then you don't worry about the pot affecting the sound.
 
If you go online and look at images of the way a pot works, you will see that at full volume the entire length of the resistive element is connected only to ground, and there is no resistive element in the signal path, just the wiper contact terminal and the input terminal. So at that position the pot acts essentially as a 100K grid resistor. If one wanted to use a Submissive one could replace the pot with that configuration in the input of the Crack, by disconnecting the pot and wiring the center pin of the input jack directly to the grid of the 12AU7 then putting a 100K resistor across the RCA jack from center pin to ground. But the easiest thing to do is just turn the volume all the way up on the Crack.
 
Doc B. said:
. But the easiest thing to do is just turn the volume all the way up on the Crack.

Hi Doc,

Would it be wise though to upgrade the Pot in the Crack to a Blue Alps or TDK and then put it at 10?...and then use the Submissive to control the volume.  Would you hear a difference by upgrading the pot in the Crack, or would you just leave the pot as is and just spend the money on the Submissive? (basically is there an audio difference between the stock pot at full and a Blue Alps, TDK pot at full?)

Thanks...Dave
 
Just my opinion, but if I were going to use NONE of the track of the volume control, I might as well bypass it.
 
I go along with Greg, the best pot is no pot at all, the best cap is no cap at all (that is a quote from Paul Joppa) and the rest.  So if you don't want to use the Crack volume control, replace it with a fixed, 0.1%, designer, $10 resistor. 
 
If the pot is up all the way, it's acts as a pair of 100K input resistors (expensive ones at that).  None of the pot's resistive track will be in series with the signal.

-PB
 
Ummm, does no woman is better than an expensive woman apply here to the pot rational?
 
Well, you need some resistance from input to ground to keep the grid voltage at (or very close to) 0V.  The pot all the way up will just act like a ~92K carbon resistor.
-PB
 
I really like the idea of the Submissive. So much so, I have used similar ideas in my builds...not going back anytime soon.
 
Do the experiments yourself! Listen critically with the stock pot, then with Submissive (stock pot all the way up), and - eventually - disconnect the stock pot entirely. Each step is easily reversed, and you will learn a bunch.
 
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