Project Babybottle: The AC powered Quickie based headphone amp.

Babybottle 2.0

For a while i had been thinking about running the 3S4 tubes with a higher voltage to squeeze more power out of them, tricky part was working out what voltage i needed and how to achieve it.  The tube datasheet lists a recommended maximum plate voltage of 90v, and a screen voltage of 67.5v, and the Speco output transformers are rated for 70v. With those limitations in mind the second challenge was to design a power supply close to those specs using as many of the original parts as possible. Preferably using the existing transformer with as little changes to the overall layout as possible.

To recap: The main transformer has a dual secondary of 18v 400ma each, wired in series it was giving me ~43v AC no load, which after rectification and filtering with a CLCRC supply gave me a nice quite 45v B+ supply.

First experiment was to take the same transformer and feed it into a voltage doubler circuit which gave me ~115-120v. Unfortunately this was much higher than i needed, and no matter how i laid out the CRC and CLC filters i just couldn’t find an elegant way to shed the best part of 50volts without resorting to big resistors dumping it as heat. Then a light bulb lit over my head in the forum of a neon gas regulator tube. A quick search turned up the OC2 as a candidate which has two european variants the 75C1 and an STR75/60.  The later two i just happened to have in a box (i might have bought a few box's of tubes on ebay). Looking at the specs they use the same 7pin miniature base as the 3S4, same glass size, 75v regulated output, 2-30ma current capability, and the best part is an ignition voltage of approx 115v. Talk about made for it!

After a bit of experimentation with PSUD i mocked up a supply that worked rather well, noise level was perfectly acceptable with 2.7mv of ripple before the regular tube which gave me a nice quiet and regulated 75v B+ supply that i could feasibly package inside the enclosure. With the supply connected to the circuit i tried a few different operating points, with the regulator giving me a B+ of 77.5v i ended up settling for a 1.5k bias resistor which gave me approx 61v at the plates with ~4.5ma current. Total current draw measured 9.3ma for both tubes.

Final step was to go back to the forum and double check my findings with the ever helpful PJ to find he already had an operating point worked out that was surprisingly close (72v plate supply, 1400 ohm cathode resistor, ~4.25mA). Dont you love it when a plan comes together and everything just falls into place. The most difficult part of the entire project was having the courage to drill another 16mm hole in the chassis plate for the regulator tube. Once i mustered up the courage the actual build took less than an hour.

Following on from the filament transformer change in the previous post the slightly higher voltage had the 10v filter caps running at ~9v which was a little close for comfort. For reliability and peace of mind i upgraded them to 16v rated Nichicon FG's and fitted larger heatsinks onto the voltage regulators. I also took the opportunity to replace the Audio input wiring with some shielded silver plated teflon insulated wire while everything was apart.

Complete list of parts changed,

-x2 Cree CSD1060 diodes & x2 Elna 300uf 100v caps in a voltage doubler configuration
-x1 1k 5w resistor limiting current into the regulator tube
-x1 K40y .1uf 400v PIO capacitor to bypass the regulator
-x1 Philips 75C1 tube & 7-pin tube socket
-x2 Nichicon FG 10,000uf 16v
-x2 35mm TO-220 Heatsinks

Conclusion, a wee bit more power, and strangely a better sounding amp too.  I don’t really know why but it sounds less fluffy and more delicate than it did before. With the Grados its completely silent, and with both the Grados and HD650's it has more than enough power to drive them so i'm calling this a complete success. The 75C1 is an interesting little tube in that its glass is completely dark, but when running i just can’t help but sit and stare into it as it’s so warm and cozy looking :)
 

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Grainger49 said:
That is beautiful custom work.  That is way beyond my abilities.  There is a reason I buy kits.

Nonsense, its just a hammond enclosure with a bunch of holes drilled into it.  When it comes to electrical circuits i am pretty confident you have way more knowledge and experience than me ;)
 
mcandmar said:
the Speco output transformers are rated for 70v.

The 70V label is really just a label, not exactly a peak rating.  The Speco can't take any standing DC current (so you need the cap and a choke or C4S load), and can take quite a bit of AC voltage swing.  (See the old SEX 2.0 or the original Paramour)

I should pop up some photos of my AC powered Quickie.
 
Its been a while since i modified my Quickie so i figured it was due for an upgrade.  I used Rod Colemans DHT regulators in my 4P1L preamp and found they worked very well, which had me curious as to how they would perform with these little 3S4 DHT tubes.  For those not familiar they are basically a very low noise constant current supply specifically designed to drive DHT tube filaments. Or in Rods own words "a gyrator on the positive terminal, and a CCS on the negative one".  They were originally intended to run 300B tubes, but they can run any DHT filament from these tiny 1.4v 100ma tubes, right up to big 6amp radio transmitter tubes.

The boards have a single adjustment pot for setting the output current, and in turn the voltage across the filament.  In testing i found most 3S4's are bang on the factory spec drawing ~100ma with 1.4v across the filament. The actual figure is tube specific so you need to trim the current/voltage level any time you change tubes.

First challenge was the raw DC supply, ideally it should be 5-7v higher than the output voltage for best results. The existing filament supply i had built was using a 6v AC transformer giving ~8.5v raw DC under load which is perfect for the Coleman regulator.

Second challenge was how to package the two regulator boards with some form of heat sinking for the transistors. Add to that the need to build some raw DC supplies into a 2x2x3" block that would fit inside my amp. Using a bit of heat sink salvaged from an old PC power supply to mount the boards the outer dimensions were exactly 2x3" so the rest just fell into place.

The improvement over the simple LM317 regulators is very noticeable. I never had any audible noise with the old setup, however i have since learn't the 317's have a less than ideal impedance throughout the audio range, and certainly the amp sounds more refined, especially in the high end. Its a definite step up in clarity overall and well worth the effort to upgrade.

http://lyrima.co.uk/dhtreg/dhtRegIntro.html
 

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The 100mA filament and 8.5V of raw voltage regulated to ~1.5V tells us that the regulator will dissipate 0.7 Watts, which in all likelihood means that you could just remove the heatsinks (you're probably the only one running those regulators who could!).
 
I had thought of running with just a couple of clip on heat sinks but this solution worked out far better from a packaging point of view.  It does produce minimal heat, certainly vs my 4P1L running filament bias, that sucker heats the room!
 
I think i may have found the perfect output transformers for the quickie in the form of two PCB mount Edcors. They have a 10k and 7k tap on the primary winding, and a 300ohm and 32ohm tap on the secondary winding rated for 1/2watt all wrapped up in a cute little 1.7x1.5" package.  They are PCB mount so i used a few 60x40mm protoboards on eBay to mount them too which left me just enough room to add a toggle switch to select between the 300ohm or 32ohm output tap.

Sonically Vs the Speco T7010s i immediately found they had a much better low end response, and after experimenting with different coupling capacitor values i got very close to a flat eq response which is way better than i ever got from the Specos.  I also got a little extra power to boot as i had to turn the volume down a few steps.  With the headphones on my head there is a night and day difference, mainly due to the low end giving a much fuller richer sound.

The good news is they are really cheap at $11 each direct from Edcor.  The bad news is they have a six week lead time when you order them.  Beezar keep them in stock but for $40 a pair. Links below..

Edcor: https://www.edcorusa.com/pcw10k-7k_300-32
Beezar: http://www.beezar.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=45_42&products_id=168
PCB's: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Double-Side-Prototype-PCB-FR-4-Stripboard-Universal-Printed-Circuit-Board-/160999849109?var=460163608083

Want to take it a step further?    There are all nickel versions of these transformers made which are available from ECP for $225 a pair, a bit pricey, but oh so tempting..

https://squareup.com/market/ecp-consolidated-productions-llc/headphone-amplifier-parafeed-transformers-pair
 

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You can e-mail Edcor and ask to order a pair of PCW10K-7K_300-32-NI transformers and that will be the nickel version.

-PB
 
Thanks for posting your findings with the Edcors Mark I'm going to have to try a Quickie configured in headphone amp guise some time soon.
 
You would be surprised just how good it sounds now, it is limited on power so its not going to get on with every pair of headphones, but it drives my Grados and HD800's very happily.

I tried to measure the noise floor with the volume set on full and discovered its pretty much on par with the noise floor of my test equipment.  No wonder i couldn't hear anything :)
 

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I'm looking at ordering a Quickie kit in a few days and, while It'll be my first build, I think I have the ability to try my hand at these mods.  I'm primarily looking for a way to pipe my turntable through my tube pre into a device I can plug headphones into.  The headphones are Bowers and Wilkins P7's (22 ohm).  Can anyone comment on whether this build would be appropriate?
 
Its been a long time since i tried a stock quickie with output transformers but looking at those headphone specs they seem very efficient so it should work ok. It really depends on the voltage output of your phono pre to give you enough usable volume range at the quickie.  I would make sure to order the Quickie with the PJCCS to get as much gain as possible out of it.

A quickie and output tranformers is so cheap its worth trying just to find out, even just for the fun of it :)
 
mcandmar said:
A quickie and output tranformers is so cheap its worth trying just to find out, even just for the fun of it :)

That was exactly my thought. I'd like to build a Crack but, as I've never done this, I figure starting with something 1/3 the price is a good idea.

Sounds like the PJCCS upgrade makes sense for the sonic improvements. Anything I need to keep in mind as far as the upgrade goes if I'm planning to use AC power instead of batteries?
 
Unfortunately the Crack is only suitable for high impedance headphones, ~200ohm and up.  With your P7's you would need a S.E.X. or Mainline kit.

There is a fair bit involved in AC powering, specifically the filament supply for each tube needs to be kept completely separate.  I would highly recommend starting with the battery power and see if you like the results before going any further.  You could conceivably double the voltage using eight 9v batterys if you need more power.

My decision to go AC powered was for A) for the fun of it, and B) because of the amount of use it was getting.
 
As one of the few people who has made a Quickie wall powered, I would caution that it's not exactly an easy mod. Build the Quickie stock and enjoy it for a few months, then evaluate whether or not you believe that AC power is still necessary.
 
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