MrPotatoSalad
New member
Still the same 70 70 70 20 V after cleaning it up. However, the lights on the top board do go on, it is just very dim so I never noticed before. LED on A3 lights up with rest of LEDs, but then goes out.
Noise, Heat, and Sparks: Oh My!
- Thread starter MrPotatoSalad
- Start date
We can sell you half of a Speedball, that might be the best route to go for now.
-PB
-PB
MrPotatoSalad
New member
Would I have to buy half the kit. Could I just get the PCB?Caucasian Blackplate said:
MrPotatoSalad
New member
Would this work: http://www.avagotech.com/pages/en/leds/subminiature_lamps/domed-resistor_led_series/hlmp-6000/
Also, there is two other versions that have the suffix E0010 and G0010. Are they all usable?
Also, there is two other versions that have the suffix E0010 and G0010. Are they all usable?
You want the HLMP-6000 without any suffix.
You'll have to contact replacementparts(at)bottlhead(dot)com in terms of what's available.
-PB
You'll have to contact replacementparts(at)bottlhead(dot)com in terms of what's available.
-PB
MrPotatoSalad
New member
Finally got a chance to go at it again. Replaced the board and everything lit up with some decent voltages. Only deviations are as follows:
T15:206V
T19:84V
T20:0V
T21:225V
T15:206V
T19:84V
T20:0V
T21:225V
MrPotatoSalad
New member
I suppose I should specify. I replaced the large PCB only. All the transistors, resistors, heat sinks, etc. where removed from the old and put in the new large PCB. What is the next step in diagnostics?
T19 has no voltage measurement in the manual.
T20 is supposed to be 0.
Your voltages look pretty good, I wouldn't sweat it.
T20 is supposed to be 0.
Your voltages look pretty good, I wouldn't sweat it.
MrPotatoSalad
New member
My SB manual says the following:
T15:185V, this is pretty close to measured so I can live with that
T19:0V
T20:206V
There is no T21 listing in the manual but I figured I would measure it since it seemed there was something wrong in that area.
Was the Speedball manual updated recently?
Are you looking are the stock Crack manual because that seems to match your description?
T15:185V, this is pretty close to measured so I can live with that
T19:0V
T20:206V
There is no T21 listing in the manual but I figured I would measure it since it seemed there was something wrong in that area.
Was the Speedball manual updated recently?
Are you looking are the stock Crack manual because that seems to match your description?
What is the date on your Speedball manual?
Revision 2-3-14 shows:
T15 - 185V (185V + 15% is 212.75V)
T19 - not listed
T20 - 0V
T21 - 206V
-PB
Revision 2-3-14 shows:
T15 - 185V (185V + 15% is 212.75V)
T19 - not listed
T20 - 0V
T21 - 206V
-PB
MrPotatoSalad
New member
SB revision 04-23-13.
Is it possible to get the new version online?
And any other changes I should be worried about before I run this thing?
Is it possible to get the new version online?
And any other changes I should be worried about before I run this thing?
If you PM me with your e-mail, I can send along a download link to the new manual.
That voltage issue was a transcription error in that table I believe, there isn't anything awry beyond a few shifted voltages.
-PB
That voltage issue was a transcription error in that table I believe, there isn't anything awry beyond a few shifted voltages.
-PB
MrPotatoSalad
New member
When measuring the tip or ring on the TRS jack, the voltage is 47V for a half second when the power is switched on, and then goes to 14V or so for another half second and then it measures below 8V decreasing to 0V after ~15 seconds. Voltage goes to -14V when switched off and then back to 0V soon after. Is this a concern?
Nope, the spike is very brief and is significantly lower with cans plugged in. There's a sticky on the Crack board related to modifying the amp to eliminate this if you prefer.
-PB
-PB
