Modifications to run e80cc/12bh7a/5687 for Crack+Speedball

Caucasian Blackplate said:
JamieMcC said:
OK started looking for a pair of switches lots of choices but what voltage rating should I be looking at to keep things safe?

Voltage rating isn't important.  The switch will have less than 2V across it, and technically will never be switched when any DC voltage is present.

I still do recommend gluing them to the PC boards.

-PB

When applying the glue, put some on the pc board and wait ~2mins for the glue to dry a little. Then, place the spst in the appropriate position and hold it for another minute or so. This method will ensure minimal glue overapplication, which prevents the glue to splurge from the sides and will ensure a tight fit.

Gotta thank Paul for this was his advice to me!
 
Super thanks, will probably will use a dab of hot glue to fix the switch in place, already have the resistors the switches should turn up in a couple of days.
 
JamieMcC said:
Super thanks, will probably will use a dab of hot glue to fix the switch in place, already have the resistors the switches should turn up in a couple of days.

Make sure to post some pictures when you get done with it :):)
 
JamieMcC said:
Super thanks, will probably will use a dab of hot glue to fix the switch in place, already have the resistors the switches should turn up in a couple of days.
You might possibly want a glue with a higher melting point ...
 
Paul Joppa said:
JamieMcC said:
Super thanks, will probably will use a dab of hot glue to fix the switch in place, already have the resistors the switches should turn up in a couple of days.
You might possibly want a glue with a higher melting point ...

Thanks Paul my glue gun is a industrial high temp one the glue melts at 195°C  so should be fine but will take some readings with the inferred thermometer to check first.
 
So I replaced my resistors and installed the switches all went well and I am delighted with the results I am hearing. The music feels tighter more coherent with better textures and substance to it.

So a big thank you to those who have paved the way.




 

 

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what reading are you getting when switched ? (12AU7/E80CC) ,looking good Jamie !
P.S. I used very light "rocker switches " so direct soldier worked great for me ,switches feel sturdy,all I need to do is lift the unit on one side without flipping  to make the adjustment,this mod should be sticky in my opinion 
 
kscwuzhere said:
Yeah I'm getting the following readings:

12AU7:
T1 74V
T5 76V

E80CC:
T1:84
T5: 82

Maybe try a difference switch?

that's pretty close to what I'm getting
6SN7,12AU7 =( T1 75V / T2 76V )* [88V before]-very happy with this  ;D
E80CC=( 85/86V )*[105V before]
12BH7A=(55/57V )*[SAME Before]

I'm not sure if this have anything to do with the switch but as long as I'm in the "55~88v " window there is  nothing to complain about  :)
 
I just installed this mod today, with two 470ohm resistors running in parallel for normal function and a single 470ohm for the e80cc. I also tried the 12bh7 with my t1s running on each circuit, and found that I preferred it to my current Mullard ecc82. So, I've decided that I want 3 different resistance settings, one stock (270ohm), one @470 for e80cc's, and one @200 for 12bh7's.

Would throwing the stock R1 resistor back in and adding a 634ohm resistor on one throw of a SPDT to net 470ohms (e80cc), and a 768ohm resistor on the second throw to net 200ohms (12bh7) let me accomplish this? I figure that the off position will give me the stock resistance with a On-Off-On SPDT: http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_72557_-1

Edit: Or it seems I could just add another 348ohm (I think?) resistor as the second "on" position parallel to the 470ohm I've already installed in order to achieve the 200ohm resistance for the 12bh7?
 
This mod is really brilliant, I've decided to go for it and hope I don't break anything in the process :)

Does the 470 ohm take the E80CC with any power tubes or just the 5998?  If I decide to use the E80CC with a 6080, do I toggle the switch to the 237ohm or 470ohm?  I love the E80CC + Bendix 6080WB combo for faster music.
 
I believe this mod will work with the 6080wb under the 470ohm resistance position. How would you compare the sound of the e80cc+5998 vs e80cc+6080wb? Which cans are you using?
 
kscwuzhere said:
I believe this mod will work with the 6080wb under the 470ohm resistance position. How would you compare the sound of the e80cc+5998 vs e80cc+6080wb? Which cans are you using?
With the E80CC, the 5998 has superior details, transparency and soundstage size.  The 6080WB betters the 5998 in terms of dynamics, drive, and bass punch. 

For jazz, vocals, and most slow music, I strongly prefer the 5998 + E80CC. With electronic and rock music, the 6080WB has the added drive and weight that makes it more enjoyable.

I'm intrigue by the 470 ohm mod and wonder how much improvement it brings to the sound pf the 5998 +E80CC combo.  One problem I have with the 5998 +E80CC is that the gain is a bit too high and I have only a small play in the volume knob.

I'm using the Beyer T90 as my main set of cans.  My other set is a Alessandro MS2i which doesn't match well with the Crack.
 
It's a very noticeable improvement with the e80cc resistance mod. I only decided to try it was after A/B'ing kscwuzhere's mod. I still don't prefer the e80cc to my Mullard ecc82 on my T1's, but for the 650s the difference made the e80cc a real winner IMO.
 
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