Modifications to run e80cc/12bh7a/5687 for Crack+Speedball

Output impedance will go down as transconductance goes up. 

The transconductance of a 5998 is generally higher than a 6080 at equal operating points.  There is some transconductance variation based on the operating point, which suggests a range of 7,000uMho to 21,000uMho (approximately) for the 5998 at typical operating points.  Given that the Speedball fixes the current at about 30mA per section of the 5998, then the operating point of the driver stage roughly sets the cathode voltage of the output stage.  (75V on the driver plate means the cathode of the output stage will be above that, but not by a whole ton)

If the driver stage plate voltage is set high, then the result will be less available plate-to-cathode voltage on the 5998, which will mean less grid to cathode voltage for that same 30mA of current.  This would actually increase the transconductance, but at the expense of potentially limiting the amount of drive voltage that you can apply to the 5998.  In other words, you could lower the output impedance, but you'd also lower the maximum voltage output of the circuit in the process.  This, unfortunately, would also raise the voltage across the big C4S load under the 5998, and the power dissipation would increase as that voltage crept up, which is not acceptable with the current design.

-PB

 
Tested my Amperex and I'm getting
Terminal 1: 105V
Terminal 5: 106V
do I still have to replace resistors and if I do ..will 1/10w 470ohm be the best choice ?,I have order some resistors earlier but I guess this are to much or should I give them a try ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161148100242?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

On another note ;tested my new arrival today (12BH7A)
Terminal 1: 55V
Terminal 5: 56V

EDIT; I just tested  my NU 6SN7GT (via adapter ) and getting 88V
 
Yeah, ~105V is on the high side, 55V is very low, 88V is in the safe zone.

Those 470 Ohm resistors you linked to will work well with the E80CC.  For the 12BH7, try a 200 Ohm resistor to bring the plate voltage up.

-PB
 
I replaced the resistors today (I didn't know how small they were  :o )
Terminal 1: 81V
Terminal 5: 84V

I'm very happy with the outcome

 

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I have ordered some metal films for this mod it will be fun to try and is easily reversible the e80cc hardly gets removed anymore its defiantly on par if not slightly better than the best of my 12au7s

Out of interest what e80cc brands are you guys getting good results with? Using a Siemens E80CC here same plate structure and big o getter as the one below but marked only Siemens E80CC and the pins seem to be a brighter than normal silver colour. It also has a small silver V2 sticker on it? 

7AXvV2NU1jJC135394892364P5614.jpg
 
They look like Tungsrams.

Have also tried Philips E80CC gold pin, rebranded by Mullard.  This tube is one of my top five noval driver tubes.
 
JamieMcC said:
Out of interest what e80cc brands are you guys getting good results with? Using a Siemens E80CC here same plate structure and big o getter as the one below but marked only Siemens E80CC and the pins seem to be a brighter than normal silver colour. It also has a small silver V2 sticker on it? 

7AXvV2NU1jJC135394892364P5614.jpg

I'm currently using a Tunsgram e80cc which I found to jive amazingly with the hd650s (pictures attached)
 

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Terminal 1: 60V
Terminal 5: 61V

YES !
believe it or not but most of my 6SN7s have similar soundstage on Crack to E80CC Amperex..love it ,this grey skirt VT-231 sounds very good
I'm very glad I can use both

 

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So I finally got done with the mod, voltages check out and I'm extremely pleased with the results!
I ended up replacing the two R1 resistors (237ohm) on the small speedball boards with 470ohm resistors. I then wanted a way to switch back to the original set up for 12AU7 rolling, so I wired a SPST (single-pole single throw) in series with another 470ohm resistor, which was then wired in parallel with the newly installed 470ohm resistors. When the switch is turned on the resistance through R1 drops to 235ohm and voltages check out!
Thank you bottlehead community!

edit: In terms of sonic differences, I've noticed a more controlled low end combined with an increase in detail in the mids. Current set-up is tungsol 5998 + tungsram e80cc + hd650s.
 

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kscwuzhere said:
Absolutely! I got the idea from the ecc32 thread so I'd thank the contributors of that thread  :)

6SN7,12AU7 =( T1 75V / T2 76V )-very happy with this  ;D
E80CC=( 85/86V )
12BH7A=(55/57V )

Thank you Sir !!

 

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xcoolhandx said:
kscwuzhere said:
Absolutely! I got the idea from the ecc32 thread so I'd thank the contributors of that thread  :)

6SN7,12AU7 =( T1 75V / T2 76V )-very happy with this  ;D
E80CC=( 85/86V )
12BH7A=(55/57V )

Thank you Sir !!

Nice work! Love the finish on your build.
 
OK started looking for a pair of switches lots of choices but what voltage rating should I be looking at to keep things safe?
 
JamieMcC said:
OK started looking for a pair of switches lots of choices but what voltage rating should I be looking at to keep things safe?

Voltage rating isn't important.  The switch will have less than 2V across it, and technically will never be switched when any DC voltage is present.

I still do recommend gluing them to the PC boards.

-PB
 
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