What areas of the crack controls the sound quality of the left audio? Im still not hearing any changes to the recessed/less prominant left side of the headphone. I know that it is not my source/headphone because without the amp it is perfectly balanced, and switching the rca connector reverses the sound quality so it must be the amp itself
Help, voltage problem!
- Thread starter smallmany
- Start date
smallmany said:
So switching the cables that come into the amp moves the recessed quality to the other channel?
smallmany said:
That would be a "no", the stellar sound does not switch channels.
How are your voltages?
If this doesn't clear up in 50-100 hours of operation, I would look at rewetting any solder joints that don't look shiny.
will this fuse work
1A 250VAC
Type number:MFG
5.2mm x 20mm
interrupting current : 35 A 250VAC
miniature fuse
1 80
2 175
3 0
4 175
5 80
6 0
7 103
8 0
9 104
10 0
11 0
12 0
13 175
14 0
15 196
20 0
21 219
A1 80
A2 0
A4 0
A5 0
A6 80
A7 0
A9 0
B1 80
B2 175
B3 103
B4 80
B5 175
B6 103
B7 0
B8 0
1A 250VAC
Type number:MFG
5.2mm x 20mm
interrupting current : 35 A 250VAC
miniature fuse
1 80
2 175
3 0
4 175
5 80
6 0
7 103
8 0
9 104
10 0
11 0
12 0
13 175
14 0
15 196
20 0
21 219
A1 80
A2 0
A4 0
A5 0
A6 80
A7 0
A9 0
B1 80
B2 175
B3 103
B4 80
B5 175
B6 103
B7 0
B8 0
Paul Joppa
Moderator
It might harm the 'phones, if the computer puts out any transients (typically turn-on or turn-off but sometimes when switching sources).
It will probably damage the resolution, since digital level control usually involves a loss of digital resolution.
But what do I know? Nothing, when it comes to current digital practice!
It will probably damage the resolution, since digital level control usually involves a loss of digital resolution.
But what do I know? Nothing, when it comes to current digital practice!
Crossfeed should be relatively easy to implement on the digital side (on your computer).
Idk if this affects the sound, but the screw between the 9 pin socket and terminals 1-5 stick out more than the other side.
And there is the #6 lockwasher, I was only able to use 1 out of the 2. The second one is in my drawer, was I supposed to use both?
Also even with daily usage, the sound has yet to reach full dynamic range on the left side. I've rewetted every joint and it is all smooth and shiny, resistance and voltages all check out. What is wrong with my amp
Any suggestions are welcome zzz
Can provide pictures if it will help resolve my issue
thanks
And there is the #6 lockwasher, I was only able to use 1 out of the 2. The second one is in my drawer, was I supposed to use both?
Also even with daily usage, the sound has yet to reach full dynamic range on the left side. I've rewetted every joint and it is all smooth and shiny, resistance and voltages all check out. What is wrong with my amp
Any suggestions are welcome zzz
Can provide pictures if it will help resolve my issue
thanks
The front screw is supposed to be shorter, as part of the Speedball mounts to a longer standoff on the rear screw. Did you have an extra #6 lock washer included with your kit, or did you intentionally leave one out?smallmany said:
I would still guess that it is a solder joint, or that there may be an issue with one of the RCA jacks. What resistance do you get from pin to shell on each RCA jack? (This measurement will be between 90 and 110K, if one side is 90K and one side is 110K, this is meaningless and should be ignored)smallmany said:
If none of that helps, I have another test in mind that should be helpful for you.
-PB
When i received the package, there were 2 #6 lockwashers, but to my knowledge from the manual, it is only used once. RCA pins read 98-97k for both jacks
I would love to try your test, I am willing to try anything.
Just curious, when you mention the measurements, are you implying reading the meter while moving the tester probes across the wire and jack? because I do get wild reading when I slide the probe around as I try to read it. I get a constant reading of 97-98k if i keep it still.
I would love to try your test, I am willing to try anything.
Just curious, when you mention the measurements, are you implying reading the meter while moving the tester probes across the wire and jack? because I do get wild reading when I slide the probe around as I try to read it. I get a constant reading of 97-98k if i keep it still.
Yes, both #6 lock washers go on the 9 pin socket to keep the nuts in place.
OK, the next step of diagnosis is to download a 60 Hz tone, then play it through your Crack while taking voltage measurements.
You will want to measure AC volts between the chassis and:
Outer top pot lug
Outer bottom pot lug
Middle top pot lug (turn the control all the way up)
Middle bottom pot lug (turn the control all the way up)
If you have the grounding mod on the headphone jack, turn the level control about half way down, then plug headphones in and measure:
Terminal 6
Terminal 10
If you do not have the grounding mod on the headphone jack, you can perform this measurement with nothing plugged in.
These voltages will be in the tenths of a volt to several volts, so adjust your meter scale accordingly.
-PB
OK, the next step of diagnosis is to download a 60 Hz tone, then play it through your Crack while taking voltage measurements.
You will want to measure AC volts between the chassis and:
Outer top pot lug
Outer bottom pot lug
Middle top pot lug (turn the control all the way up)
Middle bottom pot lug (turn the control all the way up)
If you have the grounding mod on the headphone jack, turn the level control about half way down, then plug headphones in and measure:
Terminal 6
Terminal 10
If you do not have the grounding mod on the headphone jack, you can perform this measurement with nothing plugged in.
These voltages will be in the tenths of a volt to several volts, so adjust your meter scale accordingly.
-PB
You can try measuring the 60Hz tone with your meter at the interconnect. It might help to really crank the level coming out of your PC.