Fresh Crack - No sound from left channel.

[Isak]

Update:

I am now getting a 27.4 ohm reading between B5 and B6 with the 6080 plugged into the socket.

On another note: When measuring voltages, I'm supposed to use the V-... symbol on the multimeter, right? as opposed to the V~

 

[Grainger49]

The V-- setting is DC Volts. The V~ setting is AC Volts.

Read carefully, the heaters are AC and the high voltages are all DC.

 

[Isak]

Sorry for sounding dumb, I just want to make sure I'm doing it right

The manual says that all the voltage readings in the voltage checks are VDC (so, dc) unless otherwise specified. And it never mentions otherwise, so I guess they are all supposed to be DC. <- if i'm reading correctly.

 

[Grainger49]

Yup, you are right.  The voltage readings don't instruct you to go to AC when reading A9 and B7 which should both be 6.3V AC.  The list says 0V DC.  That is also true.

 

[Isak]

I decided to re-do the voltage check as well, and now it's showing a new problem.

All voltages were well within limits except:

7 0
B3 0
B6 173

Terminal 13 gave off a big flash when I touched it with the multimeter. Tried it again and it went fine.

EDIT: And it appears as the 6080 doesn't light up anymore.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Isak,

We can provide you with a fresh 6080 tube, just send an e-mail to replacementparts(at)bottlehead(dot)com.

-PB

 

[Isak]

Do you reckon that the 6080 was causing the problems then? Or will I just ruin another tube by putting it in my amp? I did notice a glow when I first put it in.

I just want to say that I truly appreciate your help. I do feel kind of shitty for not knowing what I'm doing and making you fix up my mess.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Yeah, the short may have cooked out of the tube, so now that half of the tube just isn't conducting.  I'd imagine a different 6080 might end up working just fine.

-PB