Circuit Board Voltage issue [resolved]
- Thread starter Emoreigns
- Start date
What does no reading mean though? Is it 0V?
The simplest problem that will lead to super low voltage at that terminal is if you swap the R1 and the 33K resistor next to it on the B side of that board.
The simplest problem that will lead to super low voltage at that terminal is if you swap the R1 and the 33K resistor next to it on the B side of that board.
The solder joints on those resistors haven't gotten enough heat to flow out.
Post some photos of the board. Close up and clear as you can.
Having just spent a week troubleshooting an issue that ultimately boiled down to me missing a joint that needed more heat, I can promise you it’s worth taking the time to go over those solder points slowly, methodically, and with a hot iron before doing anything else.
My biggest issue on PCBs normally ends up being spots without enough solder or transistors without enough heat.
Having just spent a week troubleshooting an issue that ultimately boiled down to me missing a joint that needed more heat, I can promise you it’s worth taking the time to go over those solder points slowly, methodically, and with a hot iron before doing anything else.
My biggest issue on PCBs normally ends up being spots without enough solder or transistors without enough heat.
Emoreigns
Member
Ok I went through took off the board and reflowed the joints. I connected and powered it, and am still having the same issue. I did notice that the 2 LED’s on the B side are not Turning on? Is that just indicative of the problem I already have or, did I just burn one of those out when soldering?
R2B doesn't look to be installed correctly.
Emoreigns
Member
Ok Paul/ community- I need some continued help. I got the build done on the Kaiju and got my speakers set up. Got inputs going in and speakers wired. Sounded great, so I added in the Beepree 2 which has been sitting complete for a while tested and unused. Beepree 2 got wired up and everything sounded even better. Got about 10 hours of listening in over a couple days, and I noticed the right channel was out. Upon inspection the right tube one the beepree 2 isn’t lighting anymore. Is this just a blown tube or something wrong with the amp? Seems like a blown tube, but the thing was brand new sans 10 hours of listening… Let me know I can take some measurements or send some photos. Appreciate the help as always everyone!
It is also extremely common for 2A3 and 300B tubes to be inserted into amps and preamps improperly, so if the non-glowing tube followed an instance of that tube being removed and put back in, that would be the place to start.
Emoreigns
Member
Tubes are properly inserted, big leads towards the rear. I don't believe I had moved these tubes at all during testing. Just powered and unpowered the Beepree 2 and Kaiju when I noticed the right channel was out and the lights on the right beepree 2 tube.
When I swap the tubes neither one will light on the right side, but both light up on the left which makes me think it isn't a tube issue right?
Thanks guys
When I swap the tubes neither one will light on the right side, but both light up on the left which makes me think it isn't a tube issue right?
Thanks guys
What is the DC voltage between pins 1 and 4 on the offending socket? Typically, this is a bad solder joint on the green twisted pair of wires that feeds through the 0.51 dropping resistors to the 4 pin socket.
Move back to where the two 0.51 ohm resistors land and check the DC voltage between those terminals. If it's still 0V, then move back to the + and - pads on the filament power supply board and check that.
Note that if you don't have the DC filament board, these measurements should be done in AC volts.
Note that if you don't have the DC filament board, these measurements should be done in AC volts.
What is the AC voltage between the green wires entering the DC filament board on that side?
Now go down to the terminals on the power transformer feeding that and check for AC voltage between those two terminals.
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