Wiring replacement pot (Alps)
- Thread starter Rossputin
- Start date
ItsAllInMyHead
New member
Thanks to the OP, Doc, Paul, B, and the group. Just swapped mine this morning.
I went with another breakout board thinking I wouldn't need to trim it. Nope. Still a smidge too big on the base-side. I chose to notch the base vs. clip the PCB. I was worried I'd damage the board, and the notch doesn't need to be as deep as the top edge of the base. In other words, it's not visible once the top plate is in place. It's just a notch into the inner "lip".
If it's useful, this is the board I used. Happy to post pics, but the process seems to be very well-covered by previous posters. I needed to add a bit of length to the output right channel and output ground wires.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-Adapter-PCB-Board-for-ALPS-RK16-RK27-Potentiometer-Audio-Amplifier-Pre-AMP/323385609326?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
The benefit I was looking for (achieved) was allowing me to listen at lower volumes with proper channel balance when I feed it with a slightly higher (2.5V vs. 2.0V) source. It works for me. Personally, I don't notice any change in the overall sound across levels, but YMMV. If it's more durable / longer lasting due to design, then all the better. It is a bit smoother in rotation, which I also like.
Once again, thanks to the Bottleheads and all those that contribute to the fun.
I went with another breakout board thinking I wouldn't need to trim it. Nope. Still a smidge too big on the base-side. I chose to notch the base vs. clip the PCB. I was worried I'd damage the board, and the notch doesn't need to be as deep as the top edge of the base. In other words, it's not visible once the top plate is in place. It's just a notch into the inner "lip".
If it's useful, this is the board I used. Happy to post pics, but the process seems to be very well-covered by previous posters. I needed to add a bit of length to the output right channel and output ground wires.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-Adapter-PCB-Board-for-ALPS-RK16-RK27-Potentiometer-Audio-Amplifier-Pre-AMP/323385609326?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
The benefit I was looking for (achieved) was allowing me to listen at lower volumes with proper channel balance when I feed it with a slightly higher (2.5V vs. 2.0V) source. It works for me. Personally, I don't notice any change in the overall sound across levels, but YMMV. If it's more durable / longer lasting due to design, then all the better. It is a bit smoother in rotation, which I also like.
Once again, thanks to the Bottleheads and all those that contribute to the fun.
Just installed a new apls pot i purchased from Mouser onto a PCB then into the amp. The audio worked fine with the original pot. Now if have no audio in the right channel I have checked the voltages all check out.
Attachments
If you rotate the pot, does it have a center detent?
It could have something to do with the wire leaving the pot and going to A7. I see way too much jacket stripped off on the A7 end, and if that bare section touches other connections, then you'll lose the channel.
That wire had to move to change the pots out. It is literally connected to the pot!ryburdman said:
I would perform another voltage check to be 100% certain.ryburdman said:
Beyond that, you can temporarily solder in a little jumper wire between A2 and A7. That will sum the outputs of the pot and could provide some useful information. If you happen to lose both channels when you do that, be sure to rotate the volume control through its entire rotation to see if things come back in part of the rotation.
