Tube Rolling w/Crack

Actually would this e80 cc work in the crack I've read somewhere that it's not advisable to use. Too much heat generation?
 
Maynard said:
Actually would this e80 cc work in the crack I've read somewhere that it's not advisable to use. Too much heat generation?

From the horses mouth

Caucasian Blackplate said:
Yes, the E80CC will work in the stock circuit, it just isn't optimized for that particular tube.

-PB

 
Hey guys, I'm struggling to find the right driver tube to complement my hd800. Currently using the ts5998 which I love. The stock drive tube was noisy. Then I tried some RCA and Conn clear tops. They didn't do much for me. I'm looking for a lusher sound and a little more bass.

Suggestions are appreciated.

thanks...
 
I have DT880's which are considered bright.

Right now I am using a 2399 (basically a 5998) and a Mullard CV4002 which is the equivalent to a 12au7.  Mullards are known to tone down the bright.  Might be worth a shot!

Take care...DAve
 
Klots said:
Hi! Few quick question.

I know that there has been many talk about mod to use E80CC tube in crack, but I ordered a E80CC tube and a speedball few days a go. Tube will arrive next week and speedball will arrive in January I guess, so my question is. Can I use E80CC tube in my un-modified crack (5998 as output tube) until my speedball arrives or just to test it for a evening? I just dont want to ruin anything in my crack, but my CBS5814A broke to pieces yesterday and this rca 12au7 that came with my crack is very microphonic and it is not nice to use it.

And my 5998 tube is making some high pitch squeal/whistle. When I tap on the tube, it goes away. All voltages etc are correct. I resoldered every joint and nothing changed. This sound appears about 30min after turning amp on. Is it common with tubes that they can produce such a high pitch sound and can it mess something up in my Crack? Can anything else cause this high pitch sound?

Thanks!


EDIT: Made a video about the squeal with my phone. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jp7yqqHaapk&list=UUWtiH_7yoxsoY6E6k1UKMpQ

A little update: It is not the tube. I put my GE 6AS7GA tube in again and have been listening for a few hours. It makes the noise too, slightly different from 5998 but still. If I tap on the tube then it goes silent and then starts again. This mystery sound is only heard in left channel. What component in Crack could make the output tube to sqeal? All ideas welcome. Thanks!
 
Since it is responsive to tapping on the tube but is not specific to a tube I would wonder about the solder on the tube socket and reflow all the pin connectors.
 
borism said:
Since it is responsive to tapping on the tube but is not specific to a tube I would wonder about the solder on the tube socket and reflow all the pin connectors.

I will resolder all pin connectors tomorrow. I bought two new sockets (same that comes with crack) and I will replace the tube socket when they arrive. Just to see if that changes anything. New clean solderjoints to all pins.

Small update: If I unplug headphones and plug them in again, it goes quiet and then in some time it starts again. That headphones out and in works everytime.
 
MattTCG said:
Hey guys, I'm struggling to find the right driver tube to complement my hd800. Currently using the ts5998 which I love. The stock drive tube was noisy. Then I tried some RCA and Conn clear tops. They didn't do much for me. I'm looking for a lusher sound and a little more bass.

Suggestions are appreciated.

thanks...

How bout a less resolving tube that's orientated towards warmth? I found the TS5998 to be sibilant at times with a wrong combination of input tube and headphones so less high end, less resolving, more bass does the trick. Problem is there aren't many tubes that fit your  bill other than the Sylvania GB6080 and the Bendix 6080WB

If you can get a Bendix tube it might just do the trick. It's a superior tube to the 5998 with tighter bass and faster pace overall
 
They still come up on ebay from time to time.  The tier 1 tubes are silly money, and over rated IMO.  Buy a Sylvania Gold brand or Valvo 6080, or a Russian 6H13C and your 90% there for $20.
 
Nick Tam said:
2 years later, all them tubes are extinct or prices just inflated real bad...

Welcome to my world. Before you talk something up on the Internet make sure you own most of them. When we started Tape Project a Technics RS1500 was worth about $250. A year later you could sell them all day long for $1200. I wasn't smart enough to buy every one I could find before we started.
 
Compared to many hobbies a tube here and there really isn't to bad. Finding a 60 year old tube that still works and sounds great is also lot of fun for relatively small beer.

I don't want to think about how much the other half spends getting her hair done!
 
Hi guys,

How does the Chatham 6AS7G sound with the Crack? Also, thinking about getting the Mullard ECC82 Re-issue from Tube Store dot com or the Valvo ECC82 on eBay. Do these two tubes go well together? Your thoughts are much appreciated. Thanks

Jimb0
 
picked up pair of Bendix 6080WB's, one of them has an audible "tick" sound inside of it that happens every 2-5 seconds (keeps ticking until it cools off after i take it out too) and it's driving me nuts. is it a bad tube? anything that can be done?

oh good and the other one i can't even type on my keyboard without getting microphonics through the right channel.

gotta love ebay.
 
remedy said:
picked up pair of Bendix 6080WB's, one of them has an audible "tick" sound inside of it that happens every 2-5 seconds (keeps ticking until it cools off after i take it out too) and it's driving me nuts. is it a bad tube? anything that can be done?

oh good and the other one i can't even type on my keyboard without getting microphonics through the right channel.

gotta love ebay.

I have had a brought a few nos graphite plate tubes in the past most have suffered from pops and ticks. I left mine running for a couple of days straight with a old pair of phones I use for testing and they have settle down with running in. I also brought a bunch of used ones from equipment pulls they all tested at nos level and all of them ran nice and quiet.
 
The ticking sound could be the glass heating up.  On tubes with very thick glass, this can take a long time (an hour or so on 6C33' in my experience).
 
Can anyone confirm if this is the Mullard CV 4003 Box Plate?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MULLARD-NOS-NIB-CV4003-12AU7A-TUBES-/400784606401?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d509fc4c1
 
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