Tube Rolling w/Crack
- Thread starter Dr. Toobz
- Start date
I see your 12AU7 doing a bit of a flash, not the 6080. This is often referred to as "The Mullard Flash" and isn't anything abnormal.
Oh that's strange. I think magnesium vapor might glow that color. Is the tube otherwise functional and quiet? If so, I'd leave the amp on with that tube running for 7-10 days to give the getter a chance to do its job.
Hello. I'm new to tube rolling with the crack. For my first time to replace stock i went with a 7236 Tung-Sol for my power tube and i'm finding it pretty interesting, quite the change from the stock RCA that came with my unit, the instrumental parts are much more present to where i feel like i'm sitting right by the band but the vocals aren't as prominent and don't stand out as much as i typically enjoy and tends to be a focus on basic setups to emphasize vocals and so it was somewhat of a drastic change for me but it's interesting.... and now i want to get a new input tube, firstly i went with a NOS Tesla which hasn't shipped yet, and now i have my eyes on a Brimar yellow T.
I found a 6060 yellow T from the early 60s on tubeampdoctor which i could go with.
There's also cv4024 and a 6059 yellow T on valvetubes with little info provided and i could get both of them for the price of the 6060.
And i just found another one on bestsfad.top which has 4 of the 6060 at only 43.99.
How do i know what's a good buy and what isn't? There isn't really a lot of info or high quality pictures in a lot of these various listings.
Are any of these good options or should i keep looking elsewhere?
Also, another question. I'm more interested in medium range priced tubes than the best as i find i'm the most comfortable in this range in most things and was wondering if there was any up to date list of reputable vendors for this tube/valve range that exists? Is simply going by Ebay ratings a good enough indication of getting legit valves/tubes? It's very overwhelming coming into this whole thing with so many different things to look for and not knowing what's a sure thing. So far i like thetubeking on Ebay because they show dates and where the tubes come from and don't shy away from the fact the tubes might not be the best unlike a lot of the others on Ebay which hypes up every tube. That's where i got the Tesla but it's difficult to know what's legit or not.
I found a 6060 yellow T from the early 60s on tubeampdoctor which i could go with.
There's also cv4024 and a 6059 yellow T on valvetubes with little info provided and i could get both of them for the price of the 6060.
And i just found another one on bestsfad.top which has 4 of the 6060 at only 43.99.
How do i know what's a good buy and what isn't? There isn't really a lot of info or high quality pictures in a lot of these various listings.
Are any of these good options or should i keep looking elsewhere?
Also, another question. I'm more interested in medium range priced tubes than the best as i find i'm the most comfortable in this range in most things and was wondering if there was any up to date list of reputable vendors for this tube/valve range that exists? Is simply going by Ebay ratings a good enough indication of getting legit valves/tubes? It's very overwhelming coming into this whole thing with so many different things to look for and not knowing what's a sure thing. So far i like thetubeking on Ebay because they show dates and where the tubes come from and don't shy away from the fact the tubes might not be the best unlike a lot of the others on Ebay which hypes up every tube. That's where i got the Tesla but it's difficult to know what's legit or not.
attmci said:
Oh really? Well dang. I had my heart set on the yellow T.
Thanks for the response. At least i found that out before i bought it as i was close to buying it. I figured it was an "equivalent to" as there seems to be so many equivalents and i read a description of it under an 12AT7 tube guide. I guess i should just stick to those specific tubes listed then to be sure.
Okay, so... regarding the Brimar cv4003 there's an Ebay seller out of India called Totempole that has NOS listings of this. A single and double. Anyone have experience with this seller having legit NOS? Upscaleaudio seems to charge for one of the same tube at platinum grade that the Ebay seller lists for two of them.
Oh and one other thing. So ECC83 definitely doesn't work? Only ECC82? I've come across a lot of ecc83 and so it would be good to know for sure.
A 12AT7 and a 12AU7 are very different tubes.SxVa said:
A 12AX7 (ECC83) and a 12AU7 are very different tubes.SxVa said:
The direct coupling in the Crack means that you need to stick to 12AU7 types or you will damage your amplifier. Using a 12AT7 will bring the bias voltage for the 6080 up and you will burn up the 3K resistors in the process. The 12AT7 also has a lot more gain, and that will make the amplifier more difficult to use.
The 12AX7 will do the same thing, but much worse. It will draw so little current through the plate load resistor that the amount of signal that you can send through the Crack will be severely limited. Whatever does go through will also be very distorted (Because the amp is designed for the 12AU7, not the 12AX7).
Alright thanks. Glad i asked then. I was under a different impression due to seeing these various equivalents thrown around and things being lumped together. I thought it was all under one umbrella.
Good to know. I will stay with the 12au7 and ecc82 and avoid the other stuff. Luckily my Tesla that i ordered is an ecc82 and so i'm still in a good place for now. I haven't moved forward with any other tubes yet before i had more info. Always good to ask questions/research before rushing in.
Good to know. I will stay with the 12au7 and ecc82 and avoid the other stuff. Luckily my Tesla that i ordered is an ecc82 and so i'm still in a good place for now. I haven't moved forward with any other tubes yet before i had more info. Always good to ask questions/research before rushing in.
Sometimes you will see these thrown around for guitar amps, where substituting one tube for another may impart "tone" into the amplifier, which is to say that the substituted tube is running poorly.
So, i received my Tesla tube from the Tube King and replacing my previous input tube that came with my unit. I bought my speedball crack from someone else and now i discover it had a 12bh7a. The only extra markings that were still there was USA and "NC".
What's up with this tube? I see it's marked as "sort of" a drop in equivalent on the first page. The fact that i've been running the crack with this input tube does this mean i can safely tube roll this 12bh7a tube?
Using my new Tesla in combination with my Tung-Sol 7236 so far i'm liking what i'm hearing. It's familiar to what i usually enjoy than the previous setup with vocals being more prominent and feels more musical but i do kind of miss how close i felt to the instrumentals with the previous tube. There's more distance with this one but that distance also makes it a bit more pleasant to my ears where i can sit back and take it all in easier. So far how i would describe them is with this Tesla ecc82 i'd sit back and chill out getting lost in the vibe of the music as a whole sound and the vocals for awhile whereas with the 12bh7a i'd have more intense listening sessions/feeling closer to the sound and paying attention more and being in every moment of separated instrumentation.
What's up with this tube? I see it's marked as "sort of" a drop in equivalent on the first page. The fact that i've been running the crack with this input tube does this mean i can safely tube roll this 12bh7a tube?
Using my new Tesla in combination with my Tung-Sol 7236 so far i'm liking what i'm hearing. It's familiar to what i usually enjoy than the previous setup with vocals being more prominent and feels more musical but i do kind of miss how close i felt to the instrumentals with the previous tube. There's more distance with this one but that distance also makes it a bit more pleasant to my ears where i can sit back and take it all in easier. So far how i would describe them is with this Tesla ecc82 i'd sit back and chill out getting lost in the vibe of the music as a whole sound and the vocals for awhile whereas with the 12bh7a i'd have more intense listening sessions/feeling closer to the sound and paying attention more and being in every moment of separated instrumentation.
There are adjustments to be made for the 12BH7 to bias properly in the Crack.
Caucasian Blackplate said:
That's the tube that came with my unit and i've been running it awhile not realizing which tube was in there. Does this basically mean i could order any 12BH7 off ebay and should be okay using it since i've been using one or are they different from tube to tube and i should avoid trying others? Basically what i mean is since one of them worked does that mean all of them will work. The person i ordered it from was some type of studio engineer and so i assume he knows his stuff and must've modified it but i have no way of knowing how much or what he did to it.
