Speedball Upgrade. 2 LEDs are off = D1 Diode was not functional. [resolved]

[elgringo81]

I have been back and forth in  the manuals and I cannot terminal T1 and T2. Can you please describe them a little so I can locate them?
Could it be that T1 and T2 do not excist in my build since I have version 1.1 of the Speedball?

"then put the 22.1K resistor back in place"
I believe you mean both 22.1K resistors. I will "rollback" the speedball update and report back.


Here are fresh measurements.

Crack:
A1= -0.3
A2= *
A3= 0
A4= *
A5= *
A6= 0
A7= 55,6
A8= 0 (Nothing is connected to this terminal)


Speedball v1.1 = "Small Circuit Board"
OA= -0.2 to -0.4 (Problem) Expected=60-90v
IA= 179,4(OK) Expected=170-270V
B-A/B= 0V (OK) Expected=0V
IB= 179,4V (OK) Expected=170-270V
OB= 74,4 (OK) Expected=60-90V

"I believe you mean both 22.1K resistors. I will "rollback" the speedball update and report back."
I can unfortunately not do the Speedball rollback because I have just broken one of the 22,4K resistors.

 

[fullheadofnothing]

T1 is terminal 1. T2 is terminal 2. So on and soforth theough T22.

 

[diynewbie]

It might be best to let those familiar with the new set-up give advice.  But since others have chimed in ....

I believe you have been requested to disconnect the input and output leads on the photo left side of the speedball  board at terminals 1 and 2 (T1 & T2 in the old manual refers to the lowest terminal strip which is attached to the nine-pin socket (transformer at top).

Then replace the 22.1k resistor on the left side only, across T1 & T2 or (1U and 2U may be used in the manual to refer to T1 & T2).

In effect, the right side in your photo would run thru the speedball while the left side would be the stock set-up.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Crack:
A1= -0.3
A2= *
A3= 0
A4= *
A5= *
A6= 0
A7= 55,6
A8= 0 (Nothing is connected to this terminal)

Well, there should be an LED connected to A8.  When you get the *, you may need to increase the range on your meter to read the voltage properly.  I'm now very interested in what the actual voltage is at A2. 

-Paul

 

[elgringo81]

Just to recap the current situation.

1. The Crack was working perfectly before I started on the speedball version 1.1 upgrade
2. I have only completed installing the Speedball 1.1 (small circuit board(Formerly v. 1.0, I believe it was two separate boards))
3. I am currently on page 19 in the Speedball 1.1 manual. On that page I have to do measurement and it is there where I have my problem.
    Terminal AO gives me a bad value = -0,2V so I will not go further in the manual until I have resolved this or someone tells me otherwise


I just made the following measurements

Crack:
T1=-0,8
T2=179,8
T3=0
T4=180,2
T5=0
T6=0
T7=56,9
T8=0
T9=103
T10=0
T11=0
T12=0
T13=179,4
T14=0
T15=195,7
T16=0
T17=8,85
T18=80,1
T19=80
T20=0
T21=212
T22=0

A1=75,3
A2=0
A3=1,55
A4=0
A5=0
A6=-0,06
A7=0
A8=0,96
A9=-0,05

B1=-0,98
B2=178,5
B3=56,7
B4=75,2
B5=178,8
B6=102,9
B7=0
B8=0


Speedball v1.1 = "Small Circuit Board"
OA= -0.2 to -0.4
IA= 179,8
B-A/B= 0
IB= 179,7
OB= 74,8

 

[elgringo81]

Well, there should be an LED connected to A8.  When you get the *, you may need to increase the range on your meter to read the voltage properly.  I'm now very interested in what the actual voltage is at A2. 

-Paul

That is correct. the LED is connected to A8.
A8 measures = 0,96
A2 Measures = 0
See full list of measurements above.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Can you swap the connections at OA and OB?  You may have to tack on a temporary jumper to make these reach, but this will tells us if the problem is on the board or on the amplifier.

-PB

 

[elgringo81]

Can you swap the connections at OA and OB?  You may have to tack on a temporary jumper to make these reach, but this will tells us if the problem is on the board or on the amplifier.

-PB

I have done as you suggested and here are the results.

There were few things that I noticed after swapping OA and OB.

When OA and OB are connected normally, LED A3 is ON but LED A8 is OFF.
When I swap OA and OB. LED A8 is ON but A3 is OFF.

LED D1 on Board A is OFF, before and after swapping.

There is a slight reading difference on OA.

Readings OA/OB swapped
OA= -0,06
IA= 182,4
B-A/B= 0V
IB= 182,2V
OB= 74,8

Readings  OA/OB no swap
OA= -0.2 to -0.4
IA= 179,8
B-A/B= 0
IB= 179,7
OB= 74,8

 

[elgringo81]

I am still dealing with this and my Crack is nothing more than a beautiful table decoration at the moment
Can somebody please help me, I would be ever so grateful.

 

[diynewbie]

I'll bump this for you.

My guess would be something wrong on the A board.  The suggestion above of disconnecting the A side from T1/1U, T2/2U and replacing the 22.1k resistor across those terminals should confirm this.  I would expect both socket LEDs to light up and better voltages at A6, B1 and B3.  I would suspect the D1 diode or 2N2907 transistor.  Since you wrote that new diodes were ordered, you might want to try replacing that diode if re-flowing the joints on those two components doesn't/didn't fix the issue.  BUT, I know very little about electronics.

Best would be if someone who knows something about this stuff answered this thread.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Yes, there is an issue either with the small PC board, or with the wires that connect it to your Crack.  If all else fails, you can contact replacementparts(at)bottlhead(dot)com regarding a replacement PCB.b

 

[elgringo81]

Thanks for the bump and feedback.

I will give this a close look over the weekend and report back.

 

[elgringo81]

I'll bump this for you.

My guess would be something wrong on the A board.  The suggestion above of disconnecting the A side from T1/1U, T2/2U and replacing the 22.1k resistor across those terminals should confirm this.  I would expect both socket LEDs to light up and better voltages at A6, B1 and B3.  I would suspect the D1 diode or 2N2907 transistor.  Since you wrote that new diodes were ordered, you might want to try replacing that diode if re-flowing the joints on those two components doesn't/didn't fix the issue.  BUT, I know very little about electronics.

Best would be if someone who knows something about this stuff answered this thread.

SOLVED!! the problem was the D1 diode, thanks for the tip

 

[elgringo81]

Finally, me issue has now been resolved, thanks to this great community here.
For those interested, I attach some pictures of my Crack setup.

... This is going to be a great Sunday

 

[kgoss]

I really like the combination of the black paint and the finish you did on the base.
Nice job. Enjoy!!!

 

[elgringo81]

I really like the combination of the black paint and the finish you did on the base.
Nice job. Enjoy!!!

Thank you, The credit goes to my dad.. He helped me with the woodwork this summer when I was visiting him in Iceland.
He is a well skilled handcrafts man.

 

[Deluk]

Out of interest, did you use one of the eBay LED's as replacement for your u/s one? Would be good to know if they are correct as I have added some to my spares box. Thanks.

 

[elgringo81]

Out of interest, did you use one of the eBay LED's as replacement for your u/s one? Would be good to know if they are correct as I have added some to my spares box. Thanks.

Deluk: I bought these as spares. Doc said they were the correct ones. £3.30 + £1.99 to Dk.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-X-LED-SUBMIN-RED-Part-HLMP-6000-/351609648339?hash=item51dd9174d3:g:HvYAAOxyd8NSa78D



ElGringo81: Yes correct. I did and they work perfectly. Thank for pointing me in the right direction there

 

[Deluk]

Thanks for the confirmation, good to know that there is currently a European source at a not unreasonable price. I have to fit my Speedball yet, probably over the Christmas period, but would rather not have to replace any of them on those boards either.