Quickie mods

  Apparently yes. I was unsure of it myself, until I read a post about it. Guys, please chime in here and correct me if I'm wrong.
 
ok i seen there are many brands on partsconnection com but all of them have only 100 mf value , those in the Q are 150 mf , is it the same to put 100 mf or better 220 mf ?
 
charger said:
you are really kind but i don't want go for techical issue just i asked which cap do you use insted those stock ?

If you go back to page 2 of this thread you can see my rebuilt quickie using 51uF ERSE film caps.
 
AHA! I knew somebody was using film.  Got to thinking...the Q is all dc anyway, maybe that's why it can be done.
 
The Silmic is a good choice.  100uF at 6.3V is an adequate size.

The cathode bypass caps that come with the new Quickie are also audio grade caps, but from Nichicon. 

-PB
 
yep, the Quickie 1.1 has some upgraded stuff that we all have been playing with since the first one came out. Many of us have switched out the electrolytic for a film. The value is not critical until you get below 50uf or so. Much lower than that and you could have some bass rolloff.
 
adamct said:
Thanks for that suggestion, Eric. So basically I would apply the tape to one end of the caps, thread the leads through a hole in the chassis, and then just stick the caps on their respective ends onto the chassis? I might put a black cable tie around the top of the caps, just to hold them together and prevent the caps from splaying outwards. Just to confirm, you think that would hold long-term (at least more than a year)?

And just to confirm, I assume this is the product you are referring to? http://www.amazon.com/3M-03615-Scotch-Mount-Molding-Tape/dp/B000BO9L00/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1370444261&sr=8-7&keywords=3m+super+strong+automotive+attachment+tape

Thanks again for the suggestions. If this works, it will be a much simpler and cost effective solution than anything else I might have cooked up...

Best,
Adam

For anyone who is interested (probably nobody), I checked with 3M and their 06834 tape (they call it "Automotive Acrylic Plus Attachment Tape") is 30% stronger than their "Super Strength Molding Tape" (03609 or 03614) that I linked to in my earlier post. As an added benefit, it is very slightly thinner (not narrower).

Best regards,
Adam
 
Adam,

  Just as an idea for the caps, I once used a Sorbothane footer under the cap, and the leads held the cap onto the footer. It was a 3/4" size, and looked. Eric has poster sized photo of it mounted to the ceiling of his bedroom...
 
That idea actually made me laugh out loud...

I'm hoping the new caps for the Crack power supply will have arrived today. If so, I'll try to post some cap porn...
 
adamct said:
I suppose you could use them to bypass the 2.2uf caps on the outputs...

aren't the coupling caps the key ones to replace, though? what values do I need to look for? I would spend in the $30-40 range. Suggestions?
 
The stock caps are 1000uf electrolytics. You can go down as far as 56uf or so with film caps. You could get a pair of Dayton Audio 68uf / 250V metalized polypropylene caps from Parts Express for about $35 plus shipping (for a pair). Audyn Cap 68uf / 400V caps are about the same price.
 
Hey Sam ---
The coupling caps are the 2.2uf. Those are the ones you want to put your bucks into. You could try "bypassing" them with a small value like you suggested. I would just get a higher end 2.2uf and go from there....
 
earwaxxer said:
Hey Sam ---
The coupling caps are the 2.2uf. Those are the ones you want to put your bucks into. You could try "bypassing" them with a small value like you suggested. I would just get a higher end 2.2uf and go from there....

Gotcha. You like the Mundorf, no? Which one do you recommend?
 
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