Please help: weak output from new Crack build [resolved]

[Jameson]

He’s saying more than to reflow. Most of those connections are not properly crimped and making good connections before you even need to worry about solder. There isn’t enough solder. Don’t go nuts using too much solder, but that middle lug on the right especially could use some more.

 

[bernieclub]

It looks like the solder has balled up on the joint but not flowed.  The wire and terminal should be hot enough so that the solder flows onto the joint without the solder touching the iron.  It should leave a concave meniscus, with the solder trying to creep along the metal surfaces.   

 

[Thermioniclife]

Yeah, you must place the tip of your iron on the terminal and the wire simultaneously so they come up to temperature BEFORE adding solder. Perhaps count to 5 before adding solder. As I stated earlier I set my iron to 650f, if you use an 800f or more you can cut the time down.

 

[beatcomber]

This is helpful advice, which along with the encouragement, is greatly appreciated. I’ll give it another shot!

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Resistance at 12 & 6 is .272 ohms.

Resistance at 12 & 10 is .303 ohms.

Those are resistances that I would expect with an OK headphone jack *if* that is 272 and 303 ohms, or 0.272K ohms and 0.303K ohms.

 

[beatcomber]

Those are resistances that I would expect with an OK headphone jack *if* that is 272 and 303 ohms, or 0.272K ohms and 0.303K ohms.

Oops, yes, those numbers are in k’s!

 

[beatcomber]

Some things I just wanted to mention in case it offers any clues, before I dive into this again...

• I am getting NO resistance reading from the positive (center pin) terminals on the RCAs.

• While my soldering of the headphone jack might not be great, I AM getting continuity readings at all of the junctions.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Can you post some updated build photos?

If you turn the pot all the way up, do you get a resistance reading from each center lug on the volume pot? 

When you say "no reading", do you mean 0 ohms, or over limit?

 

[beatcomber]

Can you post some updated build photos?

I have done any additional work since Sunday morning...

If you turn the pot all the way up, do you get a resistance reading from each center lug on the volume pot? 

When you say "no reading", do you mean 0 ohms, or over limit?

This is what the meter reads... no difference from when the probes are not making contact.
https://i.postimg.cc/nzm0SDqt/IMG-7490.jpg

 

[Paul Birkeland]

I think I see the potential problem.  On your volume pot if you look at the upper outer lug where the white wire connects, there's a bunch of solder that has flowed down and along the flat metal bit on the pot, and this solder will flow into the pot and destroy it.

When you solder these connections, crimp the wire on the pot and just put in enough solder to fill in between the crimped wire and the pot lug.  You don't want to use much more than that because it can go places you don't want it to!

You'll definitely need to replace the pot, this isn't something that's fixable.

 

[Thermioniclife]

If you have your meter set to ohms and you probe the center pin of the rca jack and put the other probe on the center pin of the vol control and you get the same reading as if your probes were not touching you have no continuity between the center pin of the rca jack and the center pin of the VC. Either you have a poor solder joint or the wire is broken possibly under the insulation.

 

[beatcomber]

If you have your meter set to ohms and you probe the center pin of the rca jack and put the other probe on the center pin of the vol control and you get the same reading as if your probes were not touching you have no continuity between the center pin of the rca jack and the center pin of the VC. Either you have a poor solder joint or the wire is broken possibly under the insulation.

Now I'm really confused...

The center pins on the volume control are indeed showing no continuity with the center pins on the input jacks.

I also checked for continuity between the red and white wires on the center pins of the VC and their corresponding pins on the 12AU7 socket, and there is continuity there.

 

[beatcomber]

I think I see the potential problem.  On your volume pot if you look at the upper outer lug where the white wire connects, there's a bunch of solder that has flowed down and along the flat metal bit on the pot, and this solder will flow into the pot and destroy it.

When you solder these connections, crimp the wire on the pot and just put in enough solder to fill in between the crimped wire and the pot lug.  You don't want to use much more than that because it can go places you don't want it to!

You'll definitely need to replace the pot, this isn't something that's fixable.

A ha! Hopefully I can source the volume pot locally. I assume it's a fairly common part.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Yes, 100K dual log.  RV24BF-10-15R1-A100K-LA is the part we use. Be sure you at least get a dual log pot with solder lugs if you are looking at other options.

 

[Thermioniclife]

Now you can probe between the rca center pin and the vc pin that is to the left of the center pin, this the wire that goes to the rca jack..

 

[Colonl_Charisma]

I destroyed my original volume potentiometer by using too much solder. After I replaced my pot, my Crack went back to working normally. I also got bit by the modding bug after replacing my stock pot haha.

 

[beatcomber]

Now you can probe between the rca center pin and the vc pin that is to the left of the center pin, this the wire that goes to the rca jack..

Those connections have continuity.

 

[beatcomber]

I destroyed my original volume potentiometer by using too much solder. After I replaced my pot, my Crack went back to working normally. I also got bit by the modding bug after replacing my stock pot haha.

I'm certainly no expert, but my spidey sense is telling me that this is the cause of the problem. Fingers crossed!

 

[beatcomber]

SUCCESS!!!!!

I just carefully wired up the replacement pot, making sure to not overdo it, and it's working beautifully now!!!! There's no hum, hiss, or noise either, thank gawd.

A huge THANK YOU to everyone who offered guidance, suggestions, and encouragement, with a special word of thanks to Paul Birkeland. There is no way I could have carried this through to completion without the kind assistance of this forum!

https://i.postimg.cc/mZKGm6JS/IMG-7575-2.jpg

 

[Paul Birkeland]

It looks great!