beatcomber
New member
I just re-watched the video on how to safely solder the power switch, so I suppose that is the same guidance I should use.
https://youtu.be/zjLO9ecjx7A
https://youtu.be/zjLO9ecjx7A
Please help: weak output from new Crack build [resolved]
- Thread starter beatcomber
- Start date
480F isn't hot enough (480C would be). While it might melt the solder, it will take so long that you'll also melt the jack in the process.
I would get an iron that can get to at least 800F before trying again.
What iron are you using?
I would get an iron that can get to at least 800F before trying again.
What iron are you using?
beatcomber
New member
Paul Birkeland said:
A ha, that makes sense!
This is what I'm using:
https://holife.com/products/holife-soldering-iron-station-60w-soldering-station-200-480-ae-adjustable-temperature-soldering-iron-set-with-separate-switch-solder-iron-holder-5-extra-iron-tips-brass-wire-ball-cleaning-sponge
I guess it's time to invest in a better (hotter) iron before proceeding.
THANK YOU.
beatcomber
New member
This should be arriving on Sunday. 8)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NPPBSHH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NPPBSHH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
maryc27182
New member
beatcomber said:
That iron reports temperature in degrees C. If you had it set at 480 C, that's quite warm. The soldering station that you'll get on Sunday has the same temperature range as your current soldering station, so you could continue working now, as long as you convert the temperature from C to F so you know what you are doing. (It looks like your new station will convert the temperature to F for you.)
Mary
If that is the case, 480C is plenty hot.
If you plug in your headphones and you still see a zero ohm reading at terminal 6 or 10, then you need to turn up the heat all the way on the station (if it isn't up already) and spend a bit less time soldering it on.
If you plug in your headphones and you still see a zero ohm reading at terminal 6 or 10, then you need to turn up the heat all the way on the station (if it isn't up already) and spend a bit less time soldering it on.
Thermioniclife
Member
I solder at 650F 99% of the time. Set your station to 340C and you should be good to go.
But as always YMMV.
But as always YMMV.
beatcomber
New member
By golly, you’re right! 480c = 896f.
I guess what it comes down to is I have to work on my technique. I’ll do some practicing on the fried jack before attempting it again on my last good jack.
I guess what it comes down to is I have to work on my technique. I’ll do some practicing on the fried jack before attempting it again on my last good jack.
beatcomber
New member
Thermioniclife said:
Paul Birkeland said:
Am I better off going full blast (896f) or should I dial it back to 650f?
I would recommend full blast and not a ton of solder. Just enough to fill in between the wires and headphone jack. Use just enough heat for the solder to flow out between the parts.
beatcomber
New member
Paul Birkeland said:
Terrific, that’s the kind of direction I was hoping for!
beatcomber
New member
I just fried a THIRD headphone jack.
I am at my wit's end now. To get all the way through the entire build to be thwarted at the very last stage is frustrating to say the least. Clearly my soldering technique is not good enough to work on these delicate headphone jacks.
What are my options here? Do I have to keep throwing money at Mouser in the hope that one of my installation attempts will work, or do I have to pay Bottlehead $125 to solder this one part for me?
I am at my wit's end now. To get all the way through the entire build to be thwarted at the very last stage is frustrating to say the least. Clearly my soldering technique is not good enough to work on these delicate headphone jacks.
What are my options here? Do I have to keep throwing money at Mouser in the hope that one of my installation attempts will work, or do I have to pay Bottlehead $125 to solder this one part for me?
bernieclub
New member
A mistake that I made several times while soldering jacks and other easy to destroy parts is applying too much pressure with the iron. I puddle a little solder on the joint right away to facilitate heat transfer, and then a little more to flow, but don't lean on the joint. Barely touching.
beatcomber
New member
bernieclub said:
I don't think that was the problem, I tread very gingerly on the last attempt, but who knows?
oguinn said:
Good idea, will do shortly.
Thank you.
Have you measure the resistance at terminals 10 and 6 with headphones plugged in every time you've wired in a jack?
You could have two problems, so if you just kept soldering in jacks and trying to use the amp without doing the resistance checks, then you may be chasing your tail a bit.
You could have two problems, so if you just kept soldering in jacks and trying to use the amp without doing the resistance checks, then you may be chasing your tail a bit.
beatcomber
New member
Paul Birkeland said:
Resistance at 10 & 6 is .606k ohms.
Resistance at 12 & 6 is .272 ohms.
Resistance at 12 & 10 is .303 ohms.
beatcomber
New member
Here's a view of my latest attempt to solder the jack. (Yes, I know there's a blob on the upper left terminal. My soldering technique is clearly lacking.)
https://i.postimg.cc/BnQxtHZb/IMG-7483.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/4yGQ40FH/IMG-7484.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/2ydT4YBx/IMG-7485.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/BnQxtHZb/IMG-7483.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/4yGQ40FH/IMG-7484.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/2ydT4YBx/IMG-7485.jpg
Thermioniclife
Member
Hey, what kind of solder are you using? 60/40 or 63/37 rosin core is what you want.
You need to bend the leads around the terminal. I see at least two terminals that are not securely soldered and will not carry the signal to the headphone jack. The jack does not look fried, I would de solder and redo the connections bending the wire and resistors to make a good physical connection and a place for solder to flow into.
You need to bend the leads around the terminal. I see at least two terminals that are not securely soldered and will not carry the signal to the headphone jack. The jack does not look fried, I would de solder and redo the connections bending the wire and resistors to make a good physical connection and a place for solder to flow into.
beatcomber
New member
Thermioniclife said:
I'm using 60/40 solder.
I just tried reflowing the solder and securing the connections, to no avail. FWIW, I don't see any plastic melted on the jack, so I wonder if that is indeed the problem?
I appreciate all of the helpful responses, but I really feel like I'm spinning my wheels here. I don't know what more I can do. I need to walk away from this project for a little while because I'm getting too frustrated.
I built a Fender Champ kit last year, and it went off without a hitch. I thought this was going to be comparatively easy.
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