Output Capacitor Upgrading Questions

Adam,

The voltage must be the same or larger if you can't find the same voltage rating as the power supply cap. 

1/100 is good for a bypass.  Bypassing is putting a smaller better capacitor in parallel with the existing cap. 

I don't use resistors when bypassing and have had no problems.  The ideal way is to try a number of resistors with alligator clip jumpers then solder the final value you decide on.
 
Hey guys, I'm looking to get some obbligato caps to change my current solen 100uf caps I have in my crack. Only thing is that I'm deciding between the 100uf PSU version or the 70uf film oil version. Any thoughts?
 
I like the Film/Oil in the black cans.  It has a smooth sound.  The highs are crisp, mids brought forward some.  I have 10uF Parafeed Obbligato Film/Oil (630V) in my Paramours.  They are pretty big.
 
Cryok95 said:
Hey guys, I'm looking to get some obbligato caps to change my current solen 100uf caps I have in my crack. Only thing is that I'm deciding between the 100uf PSU version or the 70uf film oil version. Any thoughts?

Leave the Solens in.
 
I would have to say that you should try the 'oils' if you are looking for some 'oily' smoothness. I personally like the oils. Some better than others. The pricey ones I like more! I really like the Ampohm paper/oils. Good bang for the buck. YMMV. - Cheers - Eric
 
Caucasian Blackplate said:
Cryok95 said:
Hey guys, I'm looking to get some obbligato caps to change my current solen 100uf caps I have in my crack. Only thing is that I'm deciding between the 100uf PSU version or the 70uf film oil version. Any thoughts?

Leave the Solens in.

I think i'll do just that, the obbligatos are a little too big IMO. Thanks for the advice!
 
FWIW - I swapped my prior 91uf axons out for the 100uf obbligato psu caps and am very happy  with the results. 

To my ears, via hd800's, the deep bass improved (presumably due, at least in part, to the change in capacitance) and trebles (e.g. violins and other instruments that play in that part of the spectrum) seem cleaner and less grainy.  Then again, maybe I'm just hearing what I want to hear as a result of confirmation-bias, having already read the descriptions on humblehomemadehifi.

From a fit standpoint - they are longer but no fatter than the old axons were, so there were no issues.
 
Post #1 - Yay for me!  8)

I am due to take arrival of my Crack in a few days (with Speedball) and this is my first crack at DIY (other than a Cmoy) and circuit modification. 

I am thinking of going with a ClarityCap 100uf SA bypassed with a Mundorf 2.2uf M-CAP Supreme for the output (in parallel).  Anyone tried this combo, can predict results?  Would I be better off using a 1 uf Mundorf silver/gold/oil EVO for the bypass? Any words of affirmation or impassioned pleas for an immediate change of mind would be most welcome.

 
Sorry about this. 

Have just read the following ( http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html )

Sound: The Clarity Cap range has an overall similarity in tonal balance, going up the range you gain a bit in clarity and spatiality. I find the SA to be neutral with a slightly warmish presentation but also a bit closed-in. Compared to the Clarity Cap PX definition and separation are better, the stereo-image is also little larger. I did find the top end to be slightly rolled-off, not that they lacked detailed but on some recordings I wanted a fraction more transparency - but all in all still very nice. On the downside the "S" and "T" in vocals can be a bit plasticy, this is probably due to the lack in transparany in the top octave, making the octaves below sound a little masked. Making a capacitor using about 90% Clarity Cap SA and about 10% Mundorf Supreme works very well, this tends to open up the top end just nicely without altering anything else.

I am probably better off getting this: 10uf / 600V, M-CAP Supreme and using as a bypass.  Agreed?
 
What the heck do "plasticy" S and T's sound like?  Im picturing listening to someone singing words with S and T sounds through a cheap Kazoo  ;D
 
I'm with Desmond.  But I do know they mean it as being a negative.  There are a number of Bottleheads who are using Clarity caps.  I'll be using some in my Paramours soon.  I don't remember any serious drawbacks.  Of course, higher dollar caps, of any make, often sound better.

Edit: The above was set to Beige color and didn't show up.
 
These sound 'differences' are so subtle its hard to describe. I usually describe the sound of higher end caps, resistors, pots etc, as being more refined, mature, open, defined, cleaner etc. To try to get more specific than that is hard, and mostly relative to the current comparison, not necessarily generalizable to all situations. 
 
Thanks Grainger and Eric.  Might hold off on the bypass for the moment and put the money to a pot upgrade.

Cheers

Nathan
 
Hey guys,

just bought some ClarityCap PX caps (2X100uf and 1X2.2uf) during the Partsconnexion sale.  I am excited to upgrade the output caps and I have chosen to bypass the last power cap.

I will build a new bigger box to house the Crack but I will start off with the last power cap bypass.  I remember asking about discharging the Output Caps and PB stated that they have made the kit so that the Output caps discharge and it is safe just to pull them out and upgrade...but I don't know about the caps attached to the power supply.

I just want to be sure that if I touch the power cap I will not fry.  Ofcourse I will unplug the power before working on the kit!!

As Ozzy said "I told them to enjoy life not end your life"


Thanks!...Dave
 
You can measure the unstriped end of any of the black power supply caps.  Anything below 10V is low enough to work on, and the power supply is self draining, but it takes a little time.

-PB
 
Cap discharge is a particular pet peeve of mine, not on Bottlehead gear but at work.  We have something called a Fresnel Lens Optical Landing System (FLOLS) which guides tailhook aircraft to a precise touchdown point.  It was designed in the 60's and has 60's and 70's era components still. 

We have two big caps on a relay board which tend to hold a charge for a bit.  Somewhere along the line, long before my time somebody decided that direct shorting the cap across the leads with a screwdriver prior to maintenance was the proper thing to do.  It accomplishes two things.  Killing the built up charge and making a very cool POP which pleases young United States Marines to no end.

9 times out of 10 my troubleshooting detective work was preceded with a "I had just discharged the cap and then I turned it back on and the ________now isn't working."

It has literally taken me 10 years to break that mentality.

PB is correct that anything under 10 volts is safe and basically that's because your meter has a 9 volt battery in it which is capable of charging the cap.

I know nobody said they were direct shorting caps but I couldn't help telling my Marines with a Screwdriver story.
 
  When I was in high school(yah EARIC I went there) working for a radio repair shop, I discharge a huge cap in CB linear amp. I was never the same.
 
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