Noise, Heat, and Sparks: Oh My!

A2: 0
A3: 1.5

I measured all of them. The ones I stated were the ones that were over the 10% difference from reference. The rest measured OK.
 
Odd, if you have 0V at A2 and 1.5V at A3, your A1 voltage should be nice and low.

It's possible that you have a flaky 12AU7.  Based on the nature of the way this thread has unraveled, can you confirm that you still have the 22K plate load resistors in?  You might try retouching your solder joints around T4/T5.

-PB
 
Yup, everything is stock Crack right now. I guess screw the tubes. Wasn't planning on having to roll them right away, but so be it.
 
One last check - yank the 6080 and run the amp with just the 12AU7, then recheck T4 and T5.  T4 will pop up, but maybe T5 will move down to where it should be.
 
Caucasian Blackplate said:
One last check - yank the 6080 and run the amp with just the 12AU7, then recheck T4 and T5.  T4 will pop up, but maybe T5 will move down to where it should be.
T4: 240
T5: 139

 
I realize I should probably outline my thought process a little bit, as you're probably getting annoyed with my constant requests for voltages.

If we just consider the 12AU7 on its own with no 6080, we know you have 1.5V of cathode bias on both channels (which is good), 0V on the grids (which is also good), and then we can look at the voltage drop across the 22K plate load resistors for each half of the 12AU7.
1
On the T1/T2 side, you have 172V-88V=84V, this 84V is dropped across 22.1K, so Ohm's law says there's 3.8mA of current rolling through there.  This is all OK.

On the T4/T5 side, you have 172V-118V=54V, across 22.1K, this is 2.4mA of current, which isn't particularly stellar.

Since this happens with the 6080 out of the tube socket, we can rule out tons and tons of random miswires, tube weirdness, and other issues that could take a few days of troubleshooting, and we can basically focus just on the 9 pin socket, and what might be happening there.

The last test, which should be nice and conclusive, would be to pop the red wires of T1 and T5, and wire them to the opposite terminals.  These wires might not be long enough to reach, but you can temporarily tack in a jumper to make the connection, then see if the flaky voltage moves over to T1.  If it does, the 12AU7 is just behaving a little weakly, and you can continue using it or send it in for an exchange.  If the flaky voltage remains on T5, then there's likely a cold joint on that front 5-lug strip.

-PB
 
With T1/5 switch:
T1:132
T2:170
T4:170
T5:96

If I exchange the 12AU7, do I just pay for shipping and do I have to send my tube in before I get the new tube?
 
Yeah, just pop it in the mail, first class post is inexpensive and should get here quickly. We will take care of the outbound postage.

-PB
 
Put in a new transistor on the lower large PC board and still all the LEDs are out except the two lower LEDs on the large PC board glow bright and the LED on A8 is lit.
 
I suppose I should say I put in the SB again if that wasn't clear.

Should I try replacing the other TIP50, or is there something else wrong?

Can I keep the small PC boards in and just replace the large PC board with the two 10W 3K resistors?
 
Removed the large board and replaced with the 3K resistors. All LEDs went on and I still have same bad voltages as before. However, now the sound in the left ear piece has cut out so it is very quiet now. No problems with distortion, just low volume in left ear.

All resistances OK.
 
I would wait until you can exchange the 12AU7's before doing much more.

Also, you really ought to replace both the TIP50 and 2N2222 in the offending channel. 

-PB
 
I agree. LEDS that won't light are often fine but the corresponding 2n2222 is blown.
 
The LEDs are not dead. They all light up slightly when I do a resistence check on them. They just will not light up when they are in the Crack.
I'll just get new transistors for all the boards.
 
I'll suggest only replacing the transistor at the point where you are seeing the problem. They are a hassle to change out and if the rest are working OK it would probably the cleanest and least risky to just replace the bad one.
 
Doc B. said:
I'll suggest only replacing the transistor at the point where you are seeing the problem. They are a hassle to change out and if the rest are working OK it would probably the cleanest and least risky to just replace the bad one.
Thanks, I'll keep the others as replacements just in case. Had to order $10 anyways to avoid $5 charge.
 
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