I'm thinking about replacing the chassis plate on my EFP3 and Paramounts. More to rearrange some components than anything. I'd like to change it enough to have the RCA's and power cord on a "back" panel. That panel would essentially become a part of an "L" shaped chassis plate that would still allow removal of the wood base for inspection, repairs or changes. I can't seem to remember the name of the place that does this type of work??? Panel express maybe?? lol I'd also like to eliminate the holes drilled in the plate for mounting all the components. I can't say I'm familiar with a way to do that... any ideas? I'm not sure this will happen but I'd at least like to explore the idea.
Chasis plate
- Thread starter intojazz
- Start date
John,
The place is calld Front Panel Express.
For mounting components without through holes you need to use bonded fasteners. Though not cheap, dragonplate.com makes some nice ones, but they are limited to half-inch length and either a #6 or #8 thread, which should be fine for most things in a BH amp. Use the tan color 3m epoxy, prepare the bonding surface well, and they should do really well.
I will probably use these myself on my next BH project, but I'm still trying to figure out what that will be Maybe a Smack.
-- Jim
The place is calld Front Panel Express.
For mounting components without through holes you need to use bonded fasteners. Though not cheap, dragonplate.com makes some nice ones, but they are limited to half-inch length and either a #6 or #8 thread, which should be fine for most things in a BH amp. Use the tan color 3m epoxy, prepare the bonding surface well, and they should do really well.
I will probably use these myself on my next BH project, but I'm still trying to figure out what that will be Maybe a Smack.
-- Jim
Paul Joppa
Moderator
For what it's worth, out power transformers are built for 155 degrees C (311F). They run less than 100C, but I like this amount of safety margin.John Roman said:
lth1
New member
John, a Quickie wooden top plate works quite well due to the lack of high temperatures. Don't know if I would try to use one with any other Bottlehead build since they do produce alot of heat. Pictures of my wooden top plated Quickie can be seen here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/108890459358226980635/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCN3SpJLgy6uvoAE&feat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/108890459358226980635/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCN3SpJLgy6uvoAE&feat=directlink
To get a top panel without mounting hardware visible (easily at least), I would use two top plates. The first would be basically identical to the stock top plate with the exception of having countersunk screw holes for all the chassis hardware.
The second top plate would mount on top of the first, using items like the power transformer, potentiometers, RCA jacks, speaker posts, etc. to clamp the two together.
You can do a bent panel for the FP-III, but it's worth considering what the rest of the chassis will look like first. For some of my own projects, I have just used two individual plates mounted together at a 90 degree angle.
-PB
The second top plate would mount on top of the first, using items like the power transformer, potentiometers, RCA jacks, speaker posts, etc. to clamp the two together.
You can do a bent panel for the FP-III, but it's worth considering what the rest of the chassis will look like first. For some of my own projects, I have just used two individual plates mounted together at a 90 degree angle.
-PB
2wo
Active member
Design the new plate to fit right over the old one. leave the stuff you want out of sight attached. Tubes can stick up through holes, transformers can be moved up top. Add the "L" piece as to be flush with the back outside surface of the wood base. Cut a U shape out of the base from the top and you can still lift the whole thing off, back connections and all...John
Clean and simple is what I'm after. An "L" shaped top plate basically. I could still use the stock base with some mods to the rear section. Only components on the back would be the IEC socket and the RCA's. If the Paramount's were done similarly that would eliminate all the interconnects and the power cord and would really clean the deck so to speak.
