another Stereomour but a giant step for me
- Thread starter borism
- Start date
Paul Joppa
Moderator
The most likely thing is, a 12AT7 that has not been properly burned in at the factory. We are seeing quite a lot of those these days for some reason. Let it run for a while and check again. If it does not come down in 50 hours or running, we can replace it. The amp should be capable of making music right now, so you might as well listen to it for those 50 hours. You may notice some pops, scratches, and/or crackling noises, if as I suspect the cathode was not fully formed, but they should also fade out with time.
Of course if you have a spare 12AT7 and are impatient, you can substitute it to see if that changes the voltages.
Of course if you have a spare 12AT7 and are impatient, you can substitute it to see if that changes the voltages.
This is pretty unusual, did you end up measuring the Kreg voltage?
Thanks Paul!
I had another 12AT7 and rechecked the voltages:
Terminal #2 190
#14 198
PC board: OA 190.3
OB 198
So, now everything checks out perfectly. However, my wood base is drying from another shellack coat. So, I'll have to wait a little before I can listen.
Another picture of the completed amplifier.
Boris
I had another 12AT7 and rechecked the voltages:
Terminal #2 190
#14 198
PC board: OA 190.3
OB 198
So, now everything checks out perfectly. However, my wood base is drying from another shellack coat. So, I'll have to wait a little before I can listen.
Another picture of the completed amplifier.
Boris
Attachments
Natural Sound
New member
Not bad for someone who never soldered before. 
But seriously, you did an excellent job. I'm very impressed with your first kit success.
But seriously, you did an excellent job. I'm very impressed with your first kit success.
Man this little amplifier is making some sweet music. It seems even with only a day of burn-in it is getting really good. And it turns out that it is driving my speakers that have a sensitivity of 92 (AudioKinesis Jazz Modules) very well. I rarely seem to turn the volume past 12.
Boris
Boris
Guy 13
New member
Hi Boris.borism said:
May I ask where you are from or where you are located.
The reason why I ask, it's because I want to know how hot
does the top plate becomes when you touch it?
As you know already, I live in Vietnam
and these days the thermometer is around 35C or 90F+
I am trying to avoid using my air conditioning in my listening room
to save money to buy the Stereomour. ;D
My Decware SE84C+ is getting very hot after just one CD playing.
I have a small super quiet fan that I would like to use to cool down the amplifier,
but I am too lazy to set it up.
Guy 13
JamieMcC
New member
Slightly off topic sorry re cooling without air conditioning a handy Bahamian method I picked while staying with a local spear-fisherman was to pick up a block of ice from the local fish market or you can freeze it yourself. Before retiring for the evening set the ice in a large bowl across from the bed position a fan to blow across the ice towards you. Results a comfortable nights sleep and on waking a refreshing bowl of cool water to have a wash with, it works really well!
That's a nice story Jamie.
Guy, I live in Connecticut and we have had a very cold Winter thus far. Having said that, the top plate of the Stereomour only gets barely warm. The power transformer bell also seems only lukewarm after hours of playing. Of course, who knows what it will be like once we get some Summer heat and humidity.
Boris
Guy, I live in Connecticut and we have had a very cold Winter thus far. Having said that, the top plate of the Stereomour only gets barely warm. The power transformer bell also seems only lukewarm after hours of playing. Of course, who knows what it will be like once we get some Summer heat and humidity.
Boris
borism said:
That particular transformer is a little oversized for its duties, hence the unusually low temperature.
Gerry E.
Member
borism said:
Hi Boris:
There's at least a couple of us here in CT. I'm a little south of Hartford and Boulos is near New Haven. I know there are at least a couple of others.
Unlike you, I have not taken that giant step. However, I know a great product and value when I see one. I bought Paramounts pre-built and Boulos built a BeePre for me.
Your Audio Kenesis Jazz Module speakers (Duke?) are a little off the-beaten-path, how did you end up with them and how are they working out with the Stereomour?
Thanks and congrats on your build!
Gerry
Gerry,
I live just north of New Haven. Duke's Jazz Modules came about when I decided to move away from solid state amplification and low sensitivity speakers (Thiel 2.4) a few years back. Somehow I stumbled upon AudioKinesis on the AudioCircle forum and the rest is history.
The Stereomour is driving my speakers surprisingly well. I don't think that this match would work well for loud rock or loud, symphonic classical music. However, acoustic, jazz and voices are great.
Boris
I live just north of New Haven. Duke's Jazz Modules came about when I decided to move away from solid state amplification and low sensitivity speakers (Thiel 2.4) a few years back. Somehow I stumbled upon AudioKinesis on the AudioCircle forum and the rest is history.
The Stereomour is driving my speakers surprisingly well. I don't think that this match would work well for loud rock or loud, symphonic classical music. However, acoustic, jazz and voices are great.
Boris
A brief update. The amplifier continues to sound wonderful. However, I was never happy with my poor finish of the wooden base. Then, I happened to see a very nice plank of bubinga wood on ebay. So, to make it short, with the help of a friend, I made a new base. All it needed is some linseed oil and lacquer finish. Now, I am happy with the whole package.
Boris
Boris
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Grainger49
New member
That is a beautiful piece of wood and a nice tidy build.
I didn't know you could put lacquer on top of linseed oil. You can spray it on top of oil? I thought it wouldn't take.
You learn something every day.
I didn't know you could put lacquer on top of linseed oil. You can spray it on top of oil? I thought it wouldn't take.
You learn something every day.
Kris
Member
Beautiful work on the base Boris.
BTW, did you put anything (lacquer/wax) on the top alum. chassis plate to prevent oxidizing?
Asking, 'cause I'm planning to put clear lacquer on mine, but still can't decide whether I should leave it as is and not be to worry about oxidizing of the top plate or put some clear lacquer, but this would give some yellowish shade over time.
BTW, did you put anything (lacquer/wax) on the top alum. chassis plate to prevent oxidizing?
Asking, 'cause I'm planning to put clear lacquer on mine, but still can't decide whether I should leave it as is and not be to worry about oxidizing of the top plate or put some clear lacquer, but this would give some yellowish shade over time.
Thanks!
Grainger, there was a very nice video on finishing bubinga on youtube and this is what they recommended. It is boiled linseed oil and you have to wait a day for it to dry and then use lacquer spray.
Kris, I didn't put anything on the aluminum plate and just left it as is.
Grainger, there was a very nice video on finishing bubinga on youtube and this is what they recommended. It is boiled linseed oil and you have to wait a day for it to dry and then use lacquer spray.
Kris, I didn't put anything on the aluminum plate and just left it as is.
Grainger49
New member
Thanks, Boris!
I'll take a look now as I'm resting from hood polishing.
I'll take a look now as I'm resting from hood polishing.
