Wire size for Crack with SB and other important upgrades.

i luvmusic 2

i luvmusic 2

New member
Hi,
  This is my first post in here,I just ordered the Crack and SB so while i'am waiting maybe i should start ordering some important  upgrade materials If you guys can let me know what are the parts i need and i would like to know what is the size of those hook up wires used in CRACK?If possible to send a Link please do.THANK YOU!
 
If I were you, i would start looking at 100uF film capacitors, and possibly 100K potentiometers. The capacitor upgrade is the most logical upgrade you can make, the performance is most noticeably affected.  Beware, 100uF film caps are huge! (don't look at ones rated below 250v).  Look at pics in other threads, if you haven't already.
 
STURMJ said:
If I were you, i would start looking at 100uF film capacitors, and possibly 100K potentiometers. The capacitor upgrade is the most logical upgrade you can make, the performance is most noticeably affected.  Beware, 100uF film caps are huge! (don't look at ones rated below 250v).  Look at pics in other threads, if you haven't already.
Click to expand...
  Hi, If i will upgrade the CAPS since i don't receive my Crack/SB i don't know how many caps would i need and what are the values of all the upgrade CAPS? Caps size is not a big deal for me i can make a case actually i already have a aluminum plate cut for the amp all i have to do now is wait and when it arrived i can decide if i need to make a new case or just use the stock case.Thank You!
 
Personally I would think about upgrading the volume pot as the first mod this will allow you to better appreciate the benefits that any further modifying can bring.
 
  I'am still shopping around for Attenuator/Pot so many choices out there with deferent price range from $20+ to $50+ for the one it Appear to me it's the same construction and materials but they vary in prices so i need to be careful  before i get ripoff specially they are coming from overseas.The ALPS Blue Velvet is the one that i'am considering it's $20 from Parts Conn....n.Is this considered step up from the stock Volume pot or have you guys used this with crack before?THANK YOU!
 
I have the Valab  fitted to my Crack and its probably one of the best bang for the buck upgrades I have done to my Crack. The E80cc resistor mod is another inexpensive gem.

 
Installing nice wire from the get go is a good idea IMHO.
Installing other upgrades at this point is not.
I think that building a kit stock and living with it that way for a while is the best way to get a handle on what you like and dislike about an amp. It gives you a baseline to decide how you'd like to proceed with your mods (is it too warm or too bright?).
Also, there's the practical matter of troubleshooting a modified kit. If you run into an issue after the kit is done, it complicates matters. On top of that, those big film caps are almost impossible to work around. Many times, problems with these kits are bad solder joints, or components in the wrong place/orientation. Both of those issues are pretty easy to see and fix in stock form but almost impossible to access with film caps in place (unless your really lucky).
So maybe you're an old hand at electronics and have been troubleshooting space shuttles for ever, but if you're like me, build stock and enjoy the tunes for a while.
 
JamieMcC said:
I have the Valab  fitted to my Crack and its probably one of the best bang for the buck upgrades I have done to my Crack. The E80cc resistor mod is another inexpensive gem.
Click to expand...
Thank You!It's good to know that someone actually used the Part.
 
ironbut said:
Installing nice wire from the get go is a good idea IMHO.
Installing other upgrades at this point is not.
I think that building a kit stock and living with it that way for a while is the best way to get a handle on what you like and dislike about an amp. It gives you a baseline to decide how you'd like to proceed with your mods (is it too warm or too bright?).
Also, there's the practical matter of troubleshooting a modified kit. If you run into an issue after the kit is done, it complicates matters. On top of that, those big film caps are almost impossible to work around. Many times, problems with these kits are bad solder joints, or components in the wrong place/orientation. Both of those issues are pretty easy to see and fix in stock form but almost impossible to access with film caps in place (unless your really lucky).
So maybe you're an old hand at electronics and have been troubleshooting space shuttles for ever, but if you're like me, build stock and enjoy the tunes for a while.
Click to expand...
  I asked for the wire because i do have some leftover(20awg solid  teflon silver plated )i'm  not sure what size is the stock wires.I Agree with you regarding start from the stock.The Crack will stay stock  for a little while  before it will received some upgrades then i will decide if i need to make another chassis to fit those Big upgrade Parts.I already have the aluminum plate cut waiting for the Amp (Free10" X 12" X 1/8"  and 4" X 12" x 1/8" Aluminum Plates)Thanks for your input!
 
Hello,
I have just completed my Crack with Speedball. I ignored the good advice I read somewhere about completing the standard Crack first and did both in one go. Now I have problems with the resistance tests.

I will post my readings in another post (cry for help) shortly, but this post caught my attention.

I used the left-over red and black wire from my Crack kit for the Speedball because the Speedball wire was too fine for my wire stripper and I kept snapping it. That shouldn't pose a problem should it?

Dan
 
hardisondan said:
Hello,
I have just completed my Crack with Speedball. I ignored the good advice I read somewhere about completing the standard Crack first and did both in one go. Now I have problems with the resistance tests.
Click to expand...

When you remove resistors from the Crack to put the Speedball in, the active loads do not measure as the resistors would. 

 
Caucasian Blackplate said:
When you remove resistors from the Crack to put the Speedball in, the active loads do not measure as the resistors would.
Click to expand...

Thanks Paul. I think I will remove the Speedball and go back to the base Crack. But out of interest, do you have any idea what sort of resistance tests/values I should do with the Speedball in? One thing that concerns me is that I was getting a value from 22, which doesn't have anything connected to it. I can't remember what it was now.

Also, wouldn't the earth lug near the power input (just above 16) be a good ground point? It's easier to attach to than 12.

Dan
 
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