Tube Rolling w/Crack

I paid about $15 per tube, so I don't feel too salty. They were transparent about what they were, I just didn't read too closely. I needed a new 6080 and the price was right ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 
Thank you guys for your adequate help!!!

So I did re plug my headset correctly....still scratches when sometimes I touch the plugs!!!!
 
Bottom plaque.........
I need to sort out the cold joints problem!!!!
Any other advice of people using combos with telefunken NOS genuine tubes :D???
 

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Page 44 has a section on output wiring. You should have connections on each of the headphone jack's lugs. You might want to create a new thread about it so it doesn't get lost in the shuffle of a long thread about tube rolling.
 
Zarno said:
So I did re plug my headset correctly....still scratches when sometimes I touch the plugs!!!!

If you did force the plugs in incorrectly, you may have damaged/spread the socket for the small pin.  I think this could result in a poor connection for the small pin and could give you the scratchy noise.  I would try using the headphones on another device to see if that is the issue. 
 
On the recommendation of this thread I got a pair of Thomson 6080WAs and that, paired with a Mullard CV4003, is my new favorite pairing for this amp.
 
Can I just double check that it is okay to use an E80CC with a Crack with the Speedball installed? I dont need to make any other modifications?
 
There is a value change for R1 on the small PC board up front for the E80CC.  I am remembering that 470 ohms is a good choice for that position.
 
Here's the thread about optimizing the current flow with E80CC / 12BH7's in Crack.
U can use the E80CC without this mod, but it does sound better with the mod.
https://forum.bottlehead.com/index.php?topic=5989.0
 
1. Don't use too much heat.
2. Don't apply any force before the solder joint is 100% melted. (Resin helps to get it flowing)
3. If cutting the resistor makes removal more easy, is usually do in more difficult situations. As a board is way harder to get vs a new 5 cent resistor.
4. Plan ahead, build in some sort of switch, so you never have to abuse the speedball board again and can switch between 12AU7 and E80CC daily :).
5. Plan further ahead, you might want 12BH7 some day, make it a 3 way switch. Really 12BH7's are a very interesting sidestep from the standard 12AU7's. More mellow/air/details compared to the average 12AU7. (oh and the 5731A's are needed for that).
6. I don't know, enjoy your turkey this evening?  :P
Good luck!
 
Thanks for the advice!

A switch seem like a good idea but i am not sure how I would go about that...

No turkey for me today, vegetarian and not american!

I hope you enjoy your turkey!
 
Hi all!  I’m currently working on my 2nd crack, my first is +sb with some cap upgrades.  I’m a big fan of tube rolling, and I have several different varients with and without adapters: 12bh7, e80cc, 6sn7, 6f8g, 6c8g, 7193 and cv6, 6j5...the list goes on and on.

I’ve discovered a weird problem with my 6c8g tubes.  The 6f8g works just fine with speedball, but when I use the 6c8g the sound is muted, with distortion happening around the 9pm mark on the volume.  I’ve tested the adapter with 6f8g on the crack, and with the 6c8g on a darkvoice amp, and no problems.  I’ve also tried different 6c8g tubes and had the same issue.

Any ideas why this particular variant is being so fussy?
 
Love Rhino said:
Any ideas why this particular variant is being so fussy?
That is not a compatible tube.  It has twice the amplification factor, higher plate impedance, and lower transconductance.  Other than all of those differences being not ideal for a tube substitute in the Crack, when you plug it in the operating point will be so far out of whack that neither the 6C8 nor the 6080 will be able to pass any signal.

A voltage check will also verify this.  Terminals 1 and 5 are going to be very, very close in DC voltage to terminals 2 and 4.

(This high voltage on terminals 1 and 5 may also destroy the large Speedball PC board over a reasonably short period of time)
 
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