antoineestephan
New member
That's exactly what I did, now my crack is working wonderful, if the original LEDs would be an improvement in sound quality, oh! wow how sweet can it get?
Trouble after speedball upgrade
- Thread starter antoineestephan
- Start date
The LED's on the 9 pin socket can be changed to resistors for troubleshooting. This is not the case for any other LED's in the amp, if you use resistors on the PC boards in place of the LED's, the boards will not work.
470 Ohm resistors can be used for the 9 pin socket LED's. If you find a value in the range of 450-500 Ohms, you'll be OK. Wattage isn't exactly important, 2/100 of a Watt is sufficient.
470 Ohm resistors can be used for the 9 pin socket LED's. If you find a value in the range of 450-500 Ohms, you'll be OK. Wattage isn't exactly important, 2/100 of a Watt is sufficient.
antoineestephan
New member
Hi,Caucasian Blackplate said:
I just replaced my broken LEDs with ordinary generic red LEDs, now my crack with speedball is actually working, very good, and the sound quality is there, if replacing the generic LEDs with HLMP6000s would still improve the sound quality I'd be even happier.
Just do you think that I could harm my amp running it like this?
Thanks
antoineestephan
New member
It's actually working ok I only hear the slightest hiss when listening at really low low levels. Something like the hiss you would hear on tape players, the hiss doesn't go higher with more volume, other than that everything is fine.
The voltages I got are 1.65V at both A3 and A8, both well within the 15% rule, so I think I'm ok for now.
The voltages I got are 1.65V at both A3 and A8, both well within the 15% rule, so I think I'm ok for now.
1.65V is a little high. The actual voltage across the HLMP-6000 is very, very close to 1.57V (which is a big part of why we use them). Having 1.65V there won't hurt if your T1/T5 voltages are OK. If you used those on the Speedball PC boards, however, things would get a little out of whack.
-PB
-PB
Order up the correct parts and solder them in at your leisure. When you are nice and relaxed and not thinking about 10 zillion other things. Those cathode diodes are the hardest part of the kit. Getting those tiny parts into that tiny space between the center and the outer pins.
Take your time and do it right. Those teensy-weensy parts are hardest parts I have dealt with yet. One sprung out on me when I was building mine and hit the floor. I thought I'd be ordering another because I couldn't find it. Looked just like all the other itty-bitty bits of insulation laying there too. Finally found it. Un-crushed by the chair wheels or my shoes -
Take your time and do it right. Those teensy-weensy parts are hardest parts I have dealt with yet. One sprung out on me when I was building mine and hit the floor. I thought I'd be ordering another because I couldn't find it. Looked just like all the other itty-bitty bits of insulation laying there too. Finally found it. Un-crushed by the chair wheels or my shoes -
antoineestephan
New member
My T1 reads 88V, and T5 94V, so they seem to be on the high side.Caucasian Blackplate said:
But I'm using my crack with speedball and it's sounding great with the Westinghouse 12AU7 that came with it. But I'm hearing an audible low level hiss with a newly bought russian Genalex, that was supposed to be an upgrade, it's like the hiss that you could hear on cassette tarp decks, for those who remember them.
Anyway would I harm anything inside my crack if I continue to use it this way, should I stop using it until I replace my LEDs?
88V and 94V isn't too far off, I'd say you're OK.
