Switching switches

[adamct]

I don't expect to change my Quickie input much (if ever). I switch sources using a dedicated switch box. And I hate the idea of reaching behind the tubes to turn the Quickie on and off. So I was thinking about switching the positions of the power and selector switches, but I wonder whether that layout will increase noise or have other undesirable effects. Thoughts?

Should I simply stop speculating about swapping selector switch scenarios and simplify the situation? Or does my suggested solution sound sensible?

Best regards,
Adam

 

[4krow]

No.

 

[Grainger49]

You could find a selector switch you like and a power switch that is located more conveniently.  I.E. two switches rather than one.

 

[4krow]

Ok, yes, I agree with the G man. Since the Q doesn't make noise of it's worth mentioning, you are free to work out the switching to your hearts content. What is convenient for you shouldn't pose new problems.

 

[earwaxxer]

Sure, you can move the on/off switch anywhere you want.If you dont need it, I would just get rid of the selector switch for the inputs, and while your at it just remove the extra pair from the circuit all together.

 

[Grainger49]

I should have explained.  I think the power switch is located such that it will minimize the signal path and keep noise low. 

The input selector is not as critical.

 

[adamct]

Really? I would have thought it is the opposite. The power switch isn't in the signal path is it? Doesn't it just connect to the power supply? Whereas I would have thought that the input selector switch is directly in the signal path...

 

[earwaxxer]

I agree Adam - move the power switch wherever. With that said, I may be paranoid here but, I use good heavy gauge wire for the power section. I hacked some good speaker wire that I no longer care about for the task. Rummage through the stuff you have kicking around and put it into action. Its not sacrilegious to cut up wire.

 

[Paul Joppa]

Don't over-analyze this thing, guys!

In the proof-of-concept prototype, I just slapped the parts down - power switch near the batteries, selector near the rcas near the tubes - just to keep the wires short and obvious - I'm lazy, and easily confused  :^)  The layout was in a 7x11 aluminum box, one of a bunch I got at a closeout price long ago. Somehow, when it went to production the prototype was just copied, except the batteries were moved to the top to keep the chassis small. There may have been no power switch on the original - just yank the D-cells to turn it off.

My original plan was to install an IEC, so when I demo'd it I could "plug it in", then pull the plug. But I was too lazy (see above) to carry that out.

Anyhow the *&^% thing is only $99, experiment away - have some fun with it!

 

[adamct]

Don't over-analyze this thing, guys!

Paul,

I think you must have gotten mixed up and posted here by accident... This is the Bottlehead Forum -- over-analyzing seems to be what we do here!  ;D :

In any case, I now feel liberated. I can mount the power switch upside down on the side of the case and at a 60 degree angle to the input switch.

LOL.

Best,
Adam

 

[Paul Joppa]

"...I can mount the power switch upside down on the side of the case and at a 60 degree angle "

Well, I'd recommend 57.295779513082320876798154814105 degrees (one radian), but other than that, hack away!

 

[adamct]

Well it was nerve-wracking, as I courted death, damnation and destruction every step of the way for my insolence in challenging the fundamental underpinnings of the universe, but somehow I survived and managed to swap the power switch and input selector switch. No noticeable noise that I can identify.

For pics, see here.

Best,
Adam