stereomour newbie

[rockdrummer]

I really am not the kind of guy to question why the right tool has to work right. I guess i was just hoping to hear that it may take some extra time. Hahaha. If it was only so simple!

I think i need to really rethink those two important tools.
My first soldering iron, (grainger already helped me through this) was a five dollar thirty watt from menards. Wouldnt heat up enough and i wasnt good enough at soldering to make it work with the big crossover connections and binding posts in the gr research monitors i first built. Went out and got a weller 100/140 watt gun and that worked wonderfully. Now with computer boards and very fine intricate work i planned to try the cheap pencil iron with a conical tip i think.

I think i need to bite the bullet and not wimp out on the right meter and iron.
Thanks so much Grainger and all for your help and advice.
Ben

 

[Grainger49]

The cheap meters can give off readings for both voltage and resistance.  The * resistance readings are charging a capacitor and might not reach the high readings they call for in the manual.  The zero readings will always be off by the resistance of the meter leads.  So if the meter leads measure 0.3 ohms and you are looking for a grounded point you might get 0.7 ohms.  In this case so will a Fluke. 

All that is covered in the FAQ Thread I linked.

 

[drewh1]

I imagine you already bought some but I just got some Kimber 4tc and am very pleased with the purchase. I have tried a lot of the less expensive solutions and just swapped out Anti-cable's Magnet wire (with a loose twist). The Kimber is a nice change. You can buy the 4tc bulk and terminate it yourself to save money - recommend the Cable Company.

drew.

 

[rockdrummer]

Hi all!  Buying my soldering station tonight and I'm going to (hopefully) start piecing together my Stereomour! YAY!

Am I correct that there are no differences, as far as construction is concerned, for using this as a power amp vs. integrated?  I will always use a receiver to feed it.  I know there are guidelines for start up order, and where to keep the volume, etc. but I'm not sure what they are yet. 

I have a pair of sonicap platinum caps to eventually put in line somewhere, that will be used as a high pass filter for the tops of my gr research speakers which are in the works, but I know the stock build is the place to start. 

Wish me luck, I'm goin' in!

Ben

 

[Grainger49]

Ben,

Good luck but if you follow the manual carefully you don't need it.

It depends where on the receiver you are coming from as to what you do.  If the recording outputs then you use the volume control as you would with a CD player.  If from the "pre-out" then you could leave the Stereomour volume wide open.  But I expect that will not give you the lowest noise.  I would go with the recording outputs using the Stereomour volume control.

 

[rockdrummer]

Grainger, I hadn't even thought about using the recording outputs.  Here is where I am a total noob.  The signals into my receiver are digital coax, and optical.  So I am going to have an issue when all is said and done.  I don't think my receiver converts digital audio to analog.  For the mean time, I will be living with this receiver which has no proper preouts.  So I was going to try to go additional analog into the receiver that way the zone 2 would be my preout for the stereomour.  Another story, but I found out my cable box doesn't have analog out  Ick.  SO, my integration of a nice two channel system into my existing home theater is not going to be ideal.

Why does this have to be so confusing????

CD/DVD to rec. is digital coax.
TV to rec. is optical.
XBOX, (mainly for netflix streaming) is to rec. is optical.

I wonder if I can go to stereomour with analog from DVD.
Skip tv since the receiver has a center.......
TO stereomour with analog from XBOX. 

hmmmmmmmm.

I need a piece of paper, pencil, about 5 hours, a new receiver, and a big coors light with green olives.  Then I'm good to go.


ben

 

[Grainger49]

If your receiver doesn't do a D/A internally to the REC output you are going to have a problem.  You have to use something to convert those signals to an analog output or you can't feed the Stereomour. 

 

[rockdrummer]

Yeah i know there will have to be all analog in to get it out.  But I'm going to need some thought according to what I actually do hook up.

What a mess.

ben

 

[2wo]

Your CD/DVD player may have analog (RCA) outputs. That would work with the Stereomour's volume control...John 

 

[rockdrummer]

I think i will do that, John. It will have to be 1 stereomour input using dvd/cd. I will figure something out for tv and xbox.
Thanks everyone.
Ben

 

[rockdrummer]

So...who is sick of me yet????

:-[

Well, I'm shuffling my feet to begin the grit of my build because I don't have a meter yet.  I see on Ebay a used Fluke Model 83 for $90.  I also see models 15B and the often recommended 87. 

We all want a good deal, but I'm just confused when it comes to functions.  If it reads volts, and millivolts, does that ensure it will do everything I need to check resistances and voltages on a bottlehead kit? 

I see posts of people who have purchased a 115, a 117 and 87's etc.  But I don't see any of those in my price range. 
If I can order one this weekend, I'll be glad.

The "*" readings in the manual make sense to me, I just need to be confident that most fluke meters will read the high resistances I need.

Thanks for being patient with me.

Ben


I'm pretty sure I am making this more difficult than it needs to be.  I apologize for that.  Out of my comfort zone, I guess.

 

[rlyach]

If you are looking for a good dmm at a budget price, this article speaks very favorable of the Mastech MS8268 available at amazon for $38.50. I looked at the specs and it should do everything you need.

best multimeter reviews - http://www.bestcovery.com/best-multimeter-overall
Mastech MS8268 manual - http://www.histest.com/blog/files/2012/02/Mastech-MS8268-Digital-Multimeter-Users-Manual.pdf
Amazon link - http://www.amazon.com/Mastech-MS8268-Digital-Manual-Multimeter/dp/B0050LVFS0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1364490225&sr=1-1&keywords=Mastech+MS8268

Hope this helps.

 

[Doc B]

Some Flukes are notorious for the display panel getting flaky with time. I have one myself. With a really fresh battery it works pretty well. As soon as the battery starts to fade a little the display gets really flaky and you have to press on it a bit for the worn contact areas to conduct.

When it comes to buying older high end test gear, caveat emptor. If it works it's great, if it doesn't, it's not really making the job easier. We have had a love/hate relationship with my old Tek scope, which falls into this category. It's been pretty much completely recapped, and about 85% of the time it's really nice to use. The other 15% is not much fun.

 

[2wo]

yes, you're making it harder on yourself. Flukes are great but for $20-40 you can a lot of very good meters that will do as good a job.  Here is one from sears on sale for $20. You can go to the store and look at it. Lets see if it can figure out how to copy a link on this new iPad, if not I am sure you can find it ...John

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-multimeter-digital-with-8-functions-and-20/p-03482141000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

 

[Paul Joppa]

I have two or three varieties of Radio Shack mid-range meters that I use all the time. My fancy Fluke is great for a few things, but overkill for kit-building - I don't use it that often, actually.

 

[rlyach]

The only feature on a DMM that is quite nice is auto-ranging. I think $10 extra is worth spending for a meter with auto-ranging.

 

[chard]

If you are looking for a good dmm at a budget price, this article speaks very favorable of the Mastech MS8268 available at amazon for $38.50. I looked at the specs and it should do everything you need.

best multimeter reviews - http://www.bestcovery.com/best-multimeter-overall
Mastech MS8268 manual - http://www.histest.com/blog/files/2012/02/Mastech-MS8268-Digital-Multimeter-Users-Manual.pdf
Amazon link - http://www.amazon.com/Mastech-MS8268-Digital-Manual-Multimeter/dp/B0050LVFS0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1364490225&sr=1-1&keywords=Mastech+MS8268

Hope this helps.

  Thanks for the tip Randy. I just ordered one as my old meter just broke. I am glad this meter uses 3 aaa batteries. My old meter used a D battery and didn't have extended battery connection leads so it was difficult to replace the battery.

 

[rockdrummer]

Hi everyone. I am going to whipe the bell and choke covers with acetone, sand with 320 paper, and prime and mask then paint. Can i just buy any primer and semi gloss or gloss spraypaint or is the heat an issue? I looked at several builds where people have done similat things i just need product suggestions. If there isnt any issues im going to just go this route. I want a black look and will probably paint the base black too.
Thanks, Ben

 

[jrebman]

Hi Ben,

Most of the standard spray paints are good to about 160 degrees F -- probably ok, but to play it safe, I generally use the rustoleum Ultra high heat spray for gas grilles -- comes in flat and semi gloss black. and with the 1000 degree rating, they are totally worry free.

HTH,

Jim

 

[rockdrummer]

Hi everybody.  I attached the rectifiers and capacitors etc. to the power supply board last night.  I haven't soldered anything yet.  I was practicing with my weller 40 watt soldering iron.  It says it heats up to 900 degrees.  A bit high for the recommended setting.  But anyway, before I do start, I have a very pointy conical pencil tip and a chisel tip.  I was going to use the pencil tip and wanted to double check what other people do.

I read that some kit builders suggest the conical tip, but mine is different than I envisioned it looking like. 

Also, I am aware of the timing and technic of soldering, not too long, etc.  but I was wondering if I will know if I stay on too long?  I read about a carbon resistor frying on a recent post and that seems obvious, but are the damages always obvious?  Anyway, I know caution is important, and am practicing on stranded wire (which takes a long time to heat).

Trying to find something to practice that will simulate pc board + lead joint soldering.

Thanks for listening.

Ben