Stereomour II blowing fuse [resolved]
- Thread starter TexFlood
- Start date
I am looking at one of your photos that shows the resistor connected from T27 to T30. In the manual it is attached to the lower terminal holes. In your picture it looks like it might be attached to the upper holes (difficult to tell) and the lead of the resistor connected to T30 might be touching a capacitor lead at T29 that it should not touch. This may all be wrong and it's all connected correctly, it's hard to tell from the angle of the shot.
One more thing - While doing the last resistance checks, I noticed that as I put pressure on the terminals with the leads, the terminal strip would move and as it did I would get 0.L reading then back to dropping M ohm reading. This would happen with pressure and movement of the terminal strip.
The measurements across 41 and 42 and across 44 and 45 should not go to zero. Sounds like something is shorting out as the strip is moving, and that could definitely take out a fuse. An very thorough visual inspection around that T strip seems like the next step.
We spec fuses with the idea that we want to avoid any damage due to the relatively high possibility (compared to a factory built product) that there might be an error in construction. Thus we spec them really close to the maximum startup current inrush. Sounds like what has happened in this case is that small batch variations in the charging current of the filter capacitors just stacks up such that the occasional amp needs a tiny bit higher rated fuse. I think this is the first time we have seen that with Stereomours. I do recall having a similar situation occur a few years ago some Crack amps, IIRC. Ofttimes that fuse blowing will just happen the first time, and after the caps have formed you can get away with the stock value. But for a .1 amp difference like we see here I wouldn't even worry about that, just leave that 1.6A slo-blo in there.
