Smoking Crack untill the Fillaments Glow

The most recent readings:

1- 90
2-194
3- 0
4-193
5- 86
6- 0
7- 0 (followed it back to B3 and there is no voltage at the tube either)
8- 0
9- 130
10-0
11- 0
12-0
13- 195
14- 0
15- 208
20- 0
21- 223

Although it no longer emits glow, perhaps another 5 watt 270 ohm resistor would go well in place of my original...

My most recent Invoice ID: 1163
The one prior was: 1085

My sincerest thanks
 
Still not Crackin'  :'(

I only hear faint music from the right channel when everything is cranked...

Terminal 7 from the tube is not an issue?

Thanks

IMG_3607.jpg
 

Attachments

Crackhead said:
Terminal 7 from the tube is not an issue?

If your voltages are not correct, it should not be a surprise that the amplifier isn't working.  You also shouldn't attempt to use it since the voltages are not correct.

Neither half of your 6080 is functioning properly, the voltage at terminal 9 is also an issue.

Were you able to source TIP50 transistors?
 
One of my hookups broke and was overlooked... But now that's fixed.  The particular wire is the one in the pic...

IMG_3613.jpg


So the numbers below indicate what my latest measurements show.

1- 93
2-174
3- 0
4-173
5- 72
6- 0
7- 0 (followed it back to B3 and there is no voltage at the tube either)
8- 0
9- 96
10-0
11- 0
12-0
13- 168
14- 0
15- 189
20- 0
21- 214
 
Would it be wise to revert back to the lack of a speed ball in order to assert that the stock crack is in fact intact?

Not knowing what to do a few weeks ago I went and redid all of my solder joints anew... I doubt I mucked that up like a fool but it would be nice to rule that possibility out. 

So (Again) the numbers below indicate what my latest measurements show.

1- 93
2-174
3- 0
4-173
5- 72
6- 0
7- 0 (followed it back to B3 and there is no voltage at the tube either)
8- 0
9- 96
10-0
11- 0
12-0
13- 168
14- 0
15- 189
20- 0
21- 214
 
Numbers from the latest tests since I removed all Speedball components:

Resistance check:

Center pin on left channel reads "0" ohms not 90 Kohms... same "0" reading at the spot where it connects to the pot.

IMG_3809.jpg
 

Attachments

Crackhead said:
Center pin on left channel reads "0" ohms not 90 Kohms... same "0" reading at the spot where it connects to the pot.

Are you getting normal readings otherwise?  Can you post a photo with all the meter in it (just to be sure).

-PB
 
Usually this indicates bridging the hot to ground on the input jack. It looks like there is a lot of solder on the center pin of that jack, so it could be extending across the plastic insulation. Check carefully and remove solder if possible.
 
fullheadofnothing said:
Usually this indicates bridging the hot to ground on the input jack. It looks like there is a lot of solder on the center pin of that jack, so it could be extending across the plastic insulation. Check carefully and remove solder if possible.

You were correct Sir.  One RCA jack was shorted on my crack exactly where you indicated.  Now it's fixed and it sounds great.  When I get a chance I will attempt a reinstall of the Speedball.

Before I move on to that however, whenever I turn the volume pot, up or down, I get a lot of these scratching sounds through my Sennheiser HD650's...

Please advise me guys.  You've proven able to correctly detect the particulars which I continually neglect, and I'm moved. 

It'd be nice to get one more round of your sound advice.
 
Do also consider the possibility that a solder joint on the pot may be marginal, and sensitive to the minor mechanical stress of adjusting. I agree with Grainger that a bit of dirt inside the pot is the likeliest cause, but re-flowing a half dozen solder joints is much easier, unless you already have the De-Oxit or other contact cleaner on hand.
 
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