slipped while cutting/stripping wire....

[Grainger49]

ok, i just finished resoldering terminals 1-5 and the tube sockets

using a pair of pliers I would make sure the wire was touching the terminals as the solder dried....

terminal 1-5 all read 0 still.  my socket readings are better but they arent where they need to be.  I suspect that the problem is all do to T3U but I am not sure

Since you are getting readings (we don't know if it is resistance or voltage unless you tell us) it is best to post only readings that are greater than 15% +/- from expected. 

Give the expected ohms, and your ohms measured, only of those that are over 15% out of spec.

When you get to the voltage readings do the same, give what is expected and what you measure.

 

[madbrayniak]

wait, your supposed to unplug the tubes when you solder?!


Just playing...of course i pulled them

I dont know all the reading off the top of my head but I can tell you that I think it was socked a2 and b2 are supposed to be 23-25 and i was getting 2.3-2.4 on a2 and on b2 i was getting about 1.4 

I will double check those numbers tomorrow though

 

[madbrayniak]

btw, I can take some pictures of it tomorrow if that would help but I followed the instructions step by step and even double checked everything

 

[Grainger49]

First thing, check the wiring of the batteries.  Check at the beginning of Quickie folder for a correction on the D cell batteries wiring.  It is the top sticky.

wait, your supposed to unplug the tubes when you solder?!  .  .  .  .    

You wouldn't have been the first to do this.  That is why Rob asked.  I probably have soldered on sockets with tubes in but I'm experienced, and old!

The tubes get soldered into the socket if you let solder drip down into the socket.  You can't get the tubes out, you have to replace the socket and start over on that one.  It isn't fun.

 

[madbrayniak]

ok, i hadnt seen the battery connection fix at the top of this thread so I will fix that first before i take any pictures to put on here if it doesnt resolve my problem.


it wouldnt suprise me that people have ruined their stuff  by not taking out the tubes.  I didnt think of soldering a tube on there as a problem, i just took them out because i didnt know if the heat could do any damage or if there was anything else that could go wrong with them.

 

[madbrayniak]

ok, here are the reading I am getting

needed/read

t2 2.5-3/0

t4 2.5-3/0



A1 1.2-1.5/-1.4
A2 23-25/0

A4 23-25/2.43
A5 2.5-3/0
A6 23-25/2.43
A7 1.2-1.5/-1.5

B1 1.2-1.5/ -1.5
B2 23-25/0

B4 23-25/2.57
B5 2.5-3/0
B6 23-25/2.55
B7 1.2-1.5/-1.5

Please note, I did not make the changes that are stickied to the top of the Quickie forum as I do not have enough wire for the T4L to be moved and since it should still work from what I understand in its current configuration I am leaving it for now until I can get it fixed and then I will move the wires when I get some wire

 

[Grainger49]

First Question:  Are those volts or ohms?

Second Question:  Which are outside +/- 15% of expected.

It helps the helpers if we address ONLY those that are bad. 

 

[2wo]

I don't have a Quickie or it's manual but it looks like you don't have the filament voltage that is supplied from the D cells. I would recheck that part. Start with the wires from the battery holder, looking for 2.5-3V. then move to each connection to the tube socket. I would guess that there is a switch inline, that would be a good place for something to go wrong...JOhn 

 

[madbrayniak]

ok i took out the only ones that are reading right(T6-T10) and a couple socket connections

those are volts my manual for my cheap little multimeter doesnt talk about measuing ohms at all so I dont even know if it can

 

[madbrayniak]

John,

I am not sure if I did exactly what you mean but i grabbed some new D cell out of the pack even though the others were new.  Plugged them into the socket and tested it and I was still only getting 1.58 volts when testing right where they connect....

I am going through the manual AGAIN to see if I can find something that I did wrong.....

where would be the best place to get some wire, caps, resistors if I need to rebuild the whole thing again?

 

[madbrayniak]

here are the pictures of my build.  Let me know if you see anything wrong, even after going through the manual three times i still cant catch anything.

 

[Paul Joppa]

Two things:

First, I see that tube socket pin 2 has a different voltage than 4 and 6 - but 2 and 6 are connected inside the tube, so they can't have different voltages if the tube is installed. This is true for both tubes - are the pin numbers being identified correctly?

Second, I thought the PJCCS had been removed and the 4000 ohm resistors installed (one from the center bottom power switch terminal to A5, and another resistor from that same switch tab to B5). I see in the pictures that it is still there. We can proceed either way, but A) we have to know which is the case, and B) it will be a little easier to diagnose if the PJCCS is removed until the rest of the circuit is known to be working correctly.

In either case there should be 36 volts at the switch tab as mentioned; if not then it's time to check the 9-v battery wiring - and make sure none of the 9-v batteries are dead!

 

[madbrayniak]

the 4000 ohm resistor was never installed as I read through both manuals before building so I installed it in the PJCCS originally since I only got one pair of those resistors.  However, the extended lead is attached between 4 and 6.  I will remove the PJCCS and take a close up of each socket....give me about an hour to get it off and get a picture....

The 9v batteries are brand new and I actually wasn't testing it with the tubes connected so I will plug those in and test again.

 

[madbrayniak]

OH! I thought there would have also been some that came with the PJCCS as well since they are used there as well.

I took measurements with the tubes and they are different but still not where they are supposed to be. 

Needed/Read

T1 0/0.74
T2 2.5-3/ 0.06

T4 2.5-3/ 0.06
T5 0/0.74

A1 1.2-1.5/ -1.4
A2 23-25/ 1.2
A3 0/0.77
A4 23-25/ 1.21
A5 2.5-3/ 0.06
A6 23-25/1.21
A7 1.2-1.5/-1.4

B1 1.2-1.5/-1.4
B2 23-25/ 1.05
B3 0/ 0.78
B4 23-25/ 1.05
B5 2.5-3/ 0.06
B6 23-25/ 1.05
B7 1.2-1.5/ -1.39

for some reason photobucket isnt letting me copy the URL to post the pictures of the tube sockets that I am on now....I will get that resolved tomorrow and get them posted

 

[madbrayniak]

 

[Grainger49]

Ok, let's start with the easy ones.  

Tube Pins A1 and A7 should be soldered together, therefore the voltage is the same.   1.4V is good, negative means you should put that battery in backward.  See the first sticky in the Quickie folder.

Tube Pins B1 and B7 should be soldered together, therefore the voltage is almost the same.  1.4V is good, negative means you should put that battery in backward.  See the first sticky in the Quickie folder.

I am pretty sure where things went wrong was including the PJCCS in your initial build.  It is not advisable.  The tube wiring seems off.  Everything else I have looked at in the pictures looks right, as best I can see.  But the tube sockets are the problem.

Looking at the picture I seen no wires feeding tube pins A4/6 and B4/6.  This should have something from the PJCCS feeding to it.  This is where the higher voltage enters the tube.  You have very low voltage there meaning the PJCCS board is not feeding the voltage to the tubes.  Take out the circuit board and put a 4k resistor between A6 and the center lug of the power switch.  Do the same for B6 to the same terminal of the power switch.  Look at page 25 and 26 of the manual to see how it should be arranged.  BE quite sure that there is a wire between A6 and A4 as well as between B6 and B4.

BTW, I have never seen a multimeter that didn't have resistance on it.  There may be but I haven't seen one.  The Greek letter Omega (looks like an upside down horse shoe) stands for Ohms.  It may not say resistance.

I don't have the instructions so I don't know everywhere it is wired to.  After extracting the PJCCS, go back through the manual and verify that you have all the connections called for.  Then do the resistance checks.  Post only those that are out of spec by 15%.  

This will get you started.

 

[madbrayniak]

ok, i will try that tomorrow or tuesday.  I am going out of town for a job interview.

The reason that there is nothing on a4/6 is because I took the PJCCS off to take those pictures.  I should have explained that.

since the 4k resistors leads have been cut so short what would you advise as the best way to get it connected to try?

 

[Grainger49]

Just extend the leads with the Teflon insulated wire that came with the kit.  Twist them together, not like you would under a wire nut, but instead side by side twisted.  If that makes sense.

Just extend the leads then connect the Teflon wire where the resistor leads should be.

 

[madbrayniak]

well, i guess its true, you have to walk before you can run

it sounds AMAZING without the PJCCS so now I have to figure out what i did wrong and get it put back in there....

if it sounds this good without it I cant wait to see what it sounds like with it!

btw, you guys want to know something really ironic about this

The job I interviewed for yesturday was for a sales postion with a company that sales solder, welding rods, etc.

so maybe because of that I will get REALLY good at soldering because I will have to demo it on sales calls.....I already weld alot and I have soldered a good amount in the past but I wouldnt call myself a "pro" by any means.

 

[madbrayniak]

haha,

ok so what do you think is the problem on the PJCCS?  think the 4k resistors didnt have a good connection on the PJCCS?