S.E.X.Y build just started
- Thread starter Adrian
- Start date
L
Loon
Guest
Will you paint the screw heads black too?
Adrian
New member
Loon & Jamie McC: I'm thinking about doing the screw heads too, but I'm not sure how best to do it - not sure how to prep the screw metal, what to use, etc. Did the nail polish adhere to the screw heads without any prep? I plan to finish the base with an ebony stain. - not necessarily to match but to complement.
Adrian
New member
JamieMcC: Thanks for the info. I'll probably give it a try. On the subject of painting, I first stained the base to match my Crack (Ipswitch Pine) and then I tried my hand at applying a polyurethane. I now know that when the label says apply a THIN coat it should probably say...THINNNNNN coat! I got running from the poly that had to be fixed. I chemically stripped the base back down to bare wood and cleaned it with mineral spirits. I'm leaving it for later when I will do the ebony stain. I learned that polyurethane requires a really thin coat especially when the humidity is high. Learn and relearn.
JamieMcC
New member
building up thin coats is the tried an tested method the wipe on method is good for this.
Loading a brush up and flowing it on thicker with just the right amount to avoid sags and runs on vertical surfaces can be a bit more tricky to get the hang of.
By the way you can always sand flat any runs with some 240 or 320 grit paper You don't need to strip it all off and start again the opaque matt areas that are left from sanding will turn clear again when the next coat is applied.
Loading a brush up and flowing it on thicker with just the right amount to avoid sags and runs on vertical surfaces can be a bit more tricky to get the hang of.
By the way you can always sand flat any runs with some 240 or 320 grit paper You don't need to strip it all off and start again the opaque matt areas that are left from sanding will turn clear again when the next coat is applied.
Grainger49
New member
Adrian,
To apply a thin coat move back. The poly will be almost dry when it adheres to the base.
To apply a thin coat move back. The poly will be almost dry when it adheres to the base.
Grainger49
New member
Oh, sorry... I mean shoot from a greater distance.
Adrian
New member
Finished!
Waiting for the valves to settle-in for now (slight buzzing) but otherwise, sounds fantastic.
I decided to finish the base with an ebony stain and I think I got it just the way I want (it has a high WAF as it is!).
Here's some pics just prior to applying the BH Badge.
Waiting for the valves to settle-in for now (slight buzzing) but otherwise, sounds fantastic.
I decided to finish the base with an ebony stain and I think I got it just the way I want (it has a high WAF as it is!).
Here's some pics just prior to applying the BH Badge.
Attachments
That turned out really cool looking. I had thought about the black on black top plate but wasn't sure if I wanted to go that dark. But I like the look of that. Unrelated, I see you have a pair of HP50s. I am currently running a pair of HD600s with a Speedballed Crack and had thought of building a SEX. What do you think of the HP50/SEX vs HD600/Crack?
Adrian
New member
Evan: Honestly I haven't had enough time with the S.E.X. and the HP50s to really know how they will eventually sound. I'm balking here because I have some buzzin from one of the valves that I hope will cure itself with some runtime. Initially I really like the sonic character of these phones with this amp - quick, clear, even dynamics throughout the entire range.
The only other application where I have used them was with my portable Zune player for commuting and while at work. For this the HP50s are the best sounding sealed phones I have owned. I'm sure they will not disappoint and will get even better as the amp comes into its own over this initial break-in period. The HP50s do have a different dynamics from other sealed phones I'm familiar with. Perhaps it's the "room feel" that NAD describes for this phone.
The HD600s with the Crack (stock) are a real treat and I find something new I like about that combination everytime I listen. I have the Speedball ready to install and will tackle that once I fix the valve buzzing and install the C4S into the S.E.X.
The only other application where I have used them was with my portable Zune player for commuting and while at work. For this the HP50s are the best sounding sealed phones I have owned. I'm sure they will not disappoint and will get even better as the amp comes into its own over this initial break-in period. The HP50s do have a different dynamics from other sealed phones I'm familiar with. Perhaps it's the "room feel" that NAD describes for this phone.
The HD600s with the Crack (stock) are a real treat and I find something new I like about that combination everytime I listen. I have the Speedball ready to install and will tackle that once I fix the valve buzzing and install the C4S into the S.E.X.
Thanks for the reply Adrian,
I am somewhat on the fence. I had a SEX 2.0 that I recently sold, and when I switched back to listening from the Crack I found the sound a little more "fun". The HD600 plus Crack is pretty special. I like the versatility of the SEX, and I've read good things about the HP50, but I might be best served by enjoying what I have. I hope the amp settles in quickly for you.
I am somewhat on the fence. I had a SEX 2.0 that I recently sold, and when I switched back to listening from the Crack I found the sound a little more "fun". The HD600 plus Crack is pretty special. I like the versatility of the SEX, and I've read good things about the HP50, but I might be best served by enjoying what I have. I hope the amp settles in quickly for you.
