Replacement tube works, however, misaligned and smoky smell but ...[Solved]

Caucasian Blackplate said:
I would suspect that the center leg of each MJE-350 isn't adequately soldered.

It's tough to debug a situation like this, as you had your Crack operational for about a day before installing the Speedball, so there could be some underlying issue that has nothing to do with the Speedball itself. 

-PB

The crack has been operational for about 6 days now. It hasn't caused any problems during that time and the resistance/voltage readings were flawless for it. I really think the upgrade has the issue.

I'll try resoldering the MJE-350s.

Why would one LED be brighter and one on the B board not work at all?

Is there anything else I can try if it doesn't work? I'll post better pictures so that maybe a second set of eyes can tell.

 
Caucasian Blackplate said:
I would suspect that the center leg of each MJE-350 isn't adequately soldered.

It's tough to debug a situation like this, as you had your Crack operational for about a day before installing the Speedball, so there could be some underlying issue that has nothing to do with the Speedball itself. 

-PB

Now the problem has shifted a little. The two LEDs on the A board a brighter than the rest and now two LEDs don't light up anymore. I didn't even touch the LEDs with the soldering iron and one was lighting before.

 

Attachments

  • IMG_0110.jpg
    IMG_0110.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 61
  • IMG_0111.jpg
    IMG_0111.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 56
  • IMG_0112.jpg
    IMG_0112.jpg
    2.3 MB · Views: 55
  • IMG_0113.jpg
    IMG_0113.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 51
  • IMG_0114.jpg
    IMG_0114.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 64
Your A side MJE350 is definitely backwards. B side is unclear. The soldering on both is quite blobby (not heated long enough), and the A side R1 appears to not be soldered on one side.

Also it is hard to tell which small transistor is which from the photographs, but it appears in 1113 that the forward small transistor on the big board is a 2N2907, where it should be a 2N2222.
 
fullheadofnothing said:
Your A side MJE350 is definitely backwards. B side is unclear. The soldering on both is quite blobby (not heated long enough), and the A side R1 appears to not be soldered on one side.

Also it is hard to tell which small transistor is which from the photographs, but it appears in 1113 that the forward small transistor on the big board is a 2N2907, where it should be a 2N2222.

I replaced the transistors and now the lights on the big board work fine. All are equally lit. However when I repositioned the MJE350 on both boards the lights are not working. Big board is still fine but small boards are not
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 55
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    1,019.1 KB · Views: 52
I put the MJE-350s back to the way they were again and now the right light of each A, B board is on but not the left. This is without the 6080 tube inside btw. The 12AU7 is inside.

 

Attachments

  • IMG_0120.jpg
    IMG_0120.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 45
  • IMG_0119.jpg
    IMG_0119.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 50
  • IMG_0118.jpg
    IMG_0118.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 48
  • IMG_0117.JPG
    IMG_0117.JPG
    1.2 MB · Views: 48
If the text on the MJE350 is facing towards the volume control, it will not work. Your photographs are unclear about orientation, but if it is how you describe, then it is incorrect and will not work.

It also appears that you have the 31.6Ω resistors on the small boards. Again this will cause major problems. You need to carefully go through your manual and confirm that all transistors and resistors are in their correct locations and correct orientation.

 
fullheadofnothing said:
If the text on the MJE350 is facing towards the volume control, it will not work. Your photographs are unclear about orientation, but if it is how you describe, then it is incorrect and will not work.

It also appears that you have the 31.6Ω resistors on the small boards. Again this will cause major problems. You need to carefully go through your manual and confirm that all transistors and resistors are in their correct locations and correct orientation.

Will do so. Sorry for sounding like I don't appreciate all the help, however, I truly think my kit had bundled the wrong transistors in the wrong baggies. I hadn't even opened the small boards' parts before I finished the large board or vice versa...which is why I probably assumed the two transistors that look so similar must be the same since they are in the same bag. Careless mistake that me or the kit preparers could have made.

Anyway I digress and will make sure all looks in accordance with the manual.

In your past experience, are these a common problem to LEDs not lighting up?

 
TheCoolDoc said:
Will do so. Sorry for sounding like I don't appreciate all the help, however, I truly think my kit had bundled the wrong transistors in the wrong baggies.
The Speedball transistors and diodes are all packed in the same bag. 

TheCoolDoc said:
In your past experience, are these a common problem to LEDs not lighting up?
See the bright red bold text at the bottom of page 12, when this instruction is followed properly, transistors are not swapped.
 
Caucasian Blackplate said:
The Speedball transistors and diodes are all packed in the same bag. 
See the bright red bold text at the bottom of page 12, when this instruction is followed properly, transistors are not swapped.

The transistors are in the correct positions now. The MJE-350 is supposed to be facing the other way, but no LED lights up when I do this. If they are facing the way they are currently the right LEDs on the small boards light up. The resistors seem fine as well.
 
Could you post another photo of the components on the PC boards? There is only one way that the transistors can be oriented for the amp to play music, so let's make sure they are in the way they should be, and then we can move on to the next step.
 
Doc B. said:
Could you post another photo of the components on the PC boards? There is only one way that the transistors can be oriented for the amp to play music, so let's make sure they are in the way they should be, and then we can move on to the next step.

I switched the resistors as one was incorrect I think. (They look so similar but I got them down). Now both small boards are lighting up (switched MJE-350s) as well, however the main board isn't lighting up anything. The nine pin socket's LEDs are much brighter than the small boards above it. Is this something to consider? Pics below. I DON'T have the 6080 plugged in btw. Is that it?

Hahah this is so fun and sad at the same time. Being a teen this fascinates me.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0122.jpg
    IMG_0122.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 59
  • IMG_0123.jpg
    IMG_0123.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 72
  • IMG_0124.jpg
    IMG_0124.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 62
  • IMG_0125.jpg
    IMG_0125.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 64
  • IMG_0126.jpg
    IMG_0126.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 67
  • IMG_0127.jpg
    IMG_0127.jpg
    537.9 KB · Views: 63
We still can't see whether the MJE 350's are oriented properly. A photo showing the faces of the MJE350's would suffice.

What are your voltages at T1 and T5?

You can measure the R1 resistors when they are in the board (amp off). 

 
Caucasian Blackplate said:
We still can't see whether the MJE 350's are oriented properly. A photo showing the faces of the MJE350's would suffice.

What are your voltages at T1 and T5?

You can measure the R1 resistors when they are in the board (amp off).

Passed all voltages with excellence. Testing the headphone jack now. Do you recommend I do the headphone jack grounding mod that is sticked right now as well? Is it mandatory?

Since you asked. T1 and T5 are both around 80

The photos I take of the MJE-350 don't show much, but the text is away from the volume knob if that helps. It all looks good to me.

EDIT: Headphone TRS jack jumped to 13 then went to 0. It's not 9, but I think the speedball is supposed to raise that voltage. It's safe to test, correct?
 
Perfection.

THANK YOU so much to everyone that helped. Means a lot to someone who isn't even remotely as experienced. I'm going to make sure all the solder joints are strong because not everything in the music is exactly "clear" currently. It's subtle, but it's most likely from weak joints after all the speedball threads I've read on here.

I learned a lot from this journey.
 
TheCoolDoc said:
...
Hahah this is so fun and sad at the same time. Being a teen this fascinates me.
Well most of us old farts will roll our eyes (having been teens ourselves long ago) but as you've seen, we'll pitch in and help you get going. Congrats on getting it working!
 
Back
Top