Re: Power cords

[Geek]

I am particularly impressed and amused with the part about not coming up with some far fetched theory like cable manufactures.

This is a major reason I highly respect Bottlehead products - no magic, no mysticism, no B.S., it just works.

Cheers!

 

[sl-15]

Doc,
The system you were testing the power cords in, is that connected straight to the wall outlet or does it go through some power conditioner first? I run my system without any power conditioner and am wondering if a cord upgrade can make a difference that way or if it only makes sense to use in conjunction with a conditioner.

Thanks,
Stefan

 

[Doc B]

We have not tried the cord with a power conditioner. I don't know if one has an effect upon the other.

 

[Grainger49]

I have a question.  A number of us Bottleheads have shelves, book cases or racks that fit close to the wall.  I don't know of a manufacturer of substantial AC plugs where the plug is close to the wall.  I have seen some extension cords that have octagonal plugs with the cord exiting parallel to the wall at a 7:00 position.  This plug doesn't interfere with other plugs/cords and allows the furniture in front of it to be reasonably close to the wall.

Audio cables are almost always stiff.  The bulky AC plugs are also, often deep.  See the example below pulled from a manufacturer's site.  The plug pictured below and cord would not allow a case 5 inches in front of it due to the depth of the plug and the stiffness of the wire.

Why not a flat plug with the cord exiting at an angle and parallel to the wall?

 

[jrebman]

Grainger,

The Wattgate 320i male plugs have an optional 90 degree backshell that you can install in any of 8 or so orientations to the plug.  I have used these behind my rack where there is little room to work with, and they work very nicely.

-- Jim

 

[Doc B]

Wattgate 330i for an AC plug perhaps? I'm chuckling, it costs damn near as much as our whole kit! Which reminds me - we've been moving so many of these cords (I think about 30 are shipping today or tomorrow) that I suspect we only have wire left for maybe 10 or 20 more. After that we will have to purchase more wire, and we won't be able to justify eating that wire cost to recover from a goof like we did on the initial run. What that means is the price will have to go up a few bucks on the next production run. Ordering a cord from tail end of this initial run might save you $5.

 

[Grainger49]

Ok, Wattgate immediately brought up the image of high dollar.  While I appreciate the reference, it is not likely I will invest in one.  But the point was that the high end, even the Bottlehead affordable and usable, power cords are a bad idea for behind furniture. 

Doc, I find it amusing that you need to repeat a purchase that initially was a mistake.  It is GREAT! 

Congratulations!

 

[DrewTube]

I was seriously skeptical, but I took the plunge and ordered two of the power cord kits for my Eros and Extended Foreplay III.  I am running this all through a power conditioner (APC S15), but I must say that I hear a difference...it's subtle, but A/B comparison tells me the difference is real.  Bass is tighter, mids a bit more forward and better imaged (especially vocals), and more "air" on the high end (all relative to vinyl via the Eros then EFPII).  Again, I emphasize this is subtle, but I'm glad I dropped the dough...good value as far as upgrades go.

One quick question....I haven't put the heat shrinks on yet...I notice the connection of the cords to the plugs is purely physical...is there any advantage or disadvantage to trying to put a little solder in there?

Thanks all!


Andrew

 

[Doc B]

I would suggest leaving the connections as compression connections. I don't know that the plastic in the plugs will handle the heat, the connections aren't really designed as solder terminals, and the strain reliefs offered by the clamps and the sticky, rigid heat shrink should keep the cord from getting loose connections.

 

[johnsonad]

Built two cords yesterday and they are burning in with my Paramounts now.  Very easy kit with great instructions. Thanks guys!

 

[Maxwell_E]

Just curious, but will the second run of these kits come with the Red-White-Black like the original or will you guys move over to the standard AC colors?

 

[Maxwell_E]

Also Grainger, I was snooping around and I found a Hubbell plug on Part-Connexion. Hospital grade Right angle for $29. It flips the wrong way though, pointing the wire straight up on a normal outlet.

http://www.partsconnexion.com/ac_hubbell.html

 

[Grainger49]

Max,

Hey, Thanks!  I can use one plug on top that has a 90 degree exit.  Now if I can figure out how to rotate the male portion of the plug 180 degrees I can use on on the top outlet and the bottom.  There is often a peg on the plug portion that fits into a notch in the casing.  I might be able to make a notch at 180 degrees or just 90 degrees.

You know it only makes sense but the big house suppliers I checked didn't have a thing like this.

I'll give it a try.

Thanks again.

 

[JC]

Actually, I think that plug is probably correct.  I believe the "correct" way of installing the outlet is with the ground sockets to the top.  At least, that seems to be the way licensed electricians always install them.

I think the idea is, between having ground on top and the ground pin on the plug being longer than the others, you stand a better chance of engaging the ground before the power when plugging something in.

 

[HF9]

I think it's just in case the plug is pulled slightly out of the socket, if something conductive like a knife drops on it, you'd rather have it land on the safety ground rather than across the hot and neutral prongs.

 

[JC]

Sure, could very well be something just like that.  They always have a reason somewhere along the line.

 

[jrebman]

Jim and HF9, yes, that is the preferred way to install an outlet, however I don't believe it is a code violation to do it the other way, and at least in our home, it seems most of them are installed with the ground lug down, except for the half-hot outlets, which are inverted so you know they are switched.

Kaiser also makes a right angle female IEC that will exit to thr right side of the bh amps -- has the ground lug furthest from the cable exit.  I prefer the orientation of the female iec plug that BH includes with the cable kit though.

-- Jim

 

[Grainger49]

JC and HF9,

I am working on the electrical wiring crew for Habitat For Humanity here.  There are no less than 4 licensed electricians on the crew.  All outlets are installed ground down.  Go figure!  

If you look at a PS Audio Power Port ($50 duplex outlet) Power Port Premier ($100 duplex outlet) or the Soloist ($200 in wall power conditioner) all the text is right side up when you have the ground on the bottom.

I am not sure there is a hard fast rule.  I know it isn't in the NEC as Jim points out.  

I guess I am just "used to" seeing an outlet look like a face.

 

[JC]

Yeah, guys, I certainly don't pretend to know the code on the matter, I'm only reporting what I see.

You must admit, though, that that hospital-grade plug might just be indicative of something.  Hospitals are more serious about the safety grounds on things than any place I know. 

 

[STURMJ]

As I understand it..... being a hospital worker that is... Hospital grade AC plugs are a bit beefier, making them less likely to become accidentally unplugged.  To us audio freaks that also means better contact in the AC outlet (more surface area, thicker contacts).