Quickie chassis

aragorn723

New member
Has anyone built a Quickie in their own  metal chassis instead of the wood frame ?  Could you share some pictures?  I'm trying to get some ideas for how to layout the inside of a Quickie (i.e. how to mount the tube sockets, minimize wire lengths to rca sockets, etc).  Thanks!
 
I kinda went overboard with mine.

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I also built a simple 1 input, 1 output Quickie in a metal file card box with some spare parts.

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That's really cool!  I take it the ultimate battery box is set up so you can disconnect the connectors at the back and charge each battery individually (without opening the box!).  What type of connector do you use for the power connection to the quickie?
 
aragorn723 said:
That's really cool!  I take it the ultimate battery box is set up so you can disconnect the connectors at the back and charge each battery individually (without opening the box!).  What type of connector do you use for the power connection to the quickie?

That is correct.  Coincidentally, I just charged each of them over the last couple days for the second time since I got them about 2 years ago.  I was hearing a buzzing sound last weekend and checked the voltages and found them to be down to 15V!  I think I spent $60 on the batteries and another $50 on the CTEK 12V smart charger.  Totally worth it!

Oh and that's a Neutrik Speakon connector.
 
aragorn723 said:
How long do the D batteries last with 2 in series?

2 in series will let you run the 3S4 with 3V on the filament, which cuts the current demand in half, so the battery life will double.
 
Caucasian Blackplate said:
aragorn723 said:
How long do the D batteries last with 2 in series?

2 in series will let you run the 3S4 with 3V on the filament, which cuts the current demand in half, so the battery life will double.

Hold the phone!  Has this been discussed before?  I must've missed it.  2 D batteries in series will last longer?  Does this call for any other changes?  PJCCS?  I should've known - 3S4

It might be time to rewire my ultimate quickie!
 
This isn't that earth shattering.  If you wire the batteries in parallel, you will also get roughly double the battery life.

Yes, you need to make other changes.  The stock circuit wires the filaments in parallel for 1.5V heating, so the paralleled connection needs to be broken.

-PB
 
aragorn723 said:
How do you mount the volume pot and selector switch?  Is there a bracket that goes to the chassis?

I used some small brass plates from my local ACE hardware store.  I bent them and cut to size.  I think they were originally 1" by 6".
 
  Rob,

    I tend to do the same thing with brass. It is easy to work with, and when used in a way that shows, it looks good too.

  About the battery change up,  if I were to use D cells in this manner, along with the 9v batteries, that would be the time to consider a separate power chassis. Having said that, it would lend itself to even more chassis configurations for the Quickie. Even though simple, I don't like having to take the batteries/cells out from among the circuit. A separate chassis would solve that problem. Off to the drawing board...
 
How do you cut brass?  One of my big concerns is figuring out how to drill the chassis (probably aluminum) and make clean cuts with no burrs/messy holes.  Any suggestions? 
 
I used sheet metal scissors.  I think they're called something else.

As for drilling holes,  get a good drill and set of bits as well as stepped bits.  Use slower speeds for aluminum.  I use a bigger bit in hand for deburing.  Practice makes perfect.  For larger holes you may want to look at hole punches.
 
  Rob,

    I don't know what stepped bits you use, but mine have a chamfer built in to de-burr the holes. I use Irwin bits when I can afford them.
 

    One question that I have about the hole punches. Do they distort the metal when used?
 
I used hole punches to step up from the 9 pin to a 5 pin socket for 76 drivers on my Paramours.  It didn't distort the metal.
 
  G,  Since I may buy one, I have one last question. How do you center a punch? If the hole is even a little off the mark, it shows.
 
Cut a few squares of card stock, like from a 6 pack holder or business card.
What comes first to hand says a lot about us  :D
Cut a hole as close to the size of the center screw of the punch as you can. Now use this to center to the hole you want to enlarge and stick it down, rubber cement works great for this kind of work.

Put a sheet of card on the other side of the plate, when you punch. This gives you a chance to get everything square and the punch started in the card, before you start in on the metal and will protect the plate from tool marks...John         
 
4krow said:
  Rob,

    I don't know what stepped bits you use, but mine have a chamfer built in to de-burr the holes. I use Irwin bits when I can afford them.
 

    One question that I have about the hole punches. Do they distort the metal when used?

What type of stepped bits do you use, titanium?  I have a drill press (but never used it lol) so that shouldn't be an issue, but if I look at Lowes website, there are titanium, and I think cobalt too?
 
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