There isn't one. The 50K part will load down your sources more than the 250K part will. With nothing plugged into the amp and the volume pot all the way up, the 250K part will let a little more ambient noise into the amplifier. The 250K part will tend to give a little more treble rolloff as well compared to the 50K part. 100K is our preferred compromise value, but I wouldn't hesitate to use 50K too.A Jedi said:Thanks. What's difference between say the 50K and 250K versions in terms of volume?
This is covered in Crack FAQ #3:A Jedi said:I wouldn't mind having a bit more knob travel to get up to volume. Currently I'm at full volume at like 10% volume. Would the 250K version make more sense for me?
I've used a piece of perf-board in the past and made my own stabilizer/strain relief. It worked pretty good.Paul Birkeland said:Also be sure to buy the companion PC board to stabilize the pins on the pot, as you do not want to solder wires to them.
Laudanum said:I soldered directly to the pins and it's been fine for 8 years. I know it's not recommended but I've been pretty decent with a iron for a long time. I finally bought a board about a year ago but I would have had to trim some wood away from the inside of the box in order for the board to clear. I didn't feel like the extra work with everything working peachy as is so I went with the "if it ain't broke ... " approach and skipped it. Maybe I'll eventually get around to it. Or maybe someone makes a smaller board???
I'd definitely use the board if I had it before I changed the pot to the ALPS but I didn't even realize a mounting board existed back when I did it.
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