Pot recommendations

xcoolhandx

New member
Replaced stock pot the other day with Alps Blue velvet and I'm not to happy ..don't know if this is some cheap knock off or what ,but the volume is lower and the soundstage is gone so I would appreciate some recommendations.. 
 
yes ..I did and order one more to try ..I might end up running stock since I'm pretty satisfied with it 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301097566671?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

this is the stock  ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150471596752?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

P.S. how is your bathtub calk holding Daytons ?..thinking about doing calk myself ,my caps keep separating from the plate  ::)
 
So far so good.  I have left it running for hours too and we all know how warm they get.

Just checked again, nice and firm.  It's really a combo "stick" job.  I used some of that heavy duty 3M double stick tape, the black stuff and then a fillet of the bathtub caulk. 

 
good to hear ...I might try this first
http://www.parts-express.com/5-minute-two-part-epoxy-adhesive-45-oz-kit--340-650
 
If you had a hot glue gun I expect that would work well for extra sticking of the cable tie pads. Even the low temperature hot glue guns require around 120°C  and the high temp ones close to 200 °C to melt the glue. its not going to go anywhere at 50 -60°C  imho.  They can also give a very nasty burn if your not careful but are just so handy.
 
I was going to order this for another project pictured here and might just order it now and use it if the other epoxy (I already have this ) won't work ,this is by far the best bonding choice
http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/633-diy-case-mod-guide-corsair-900d-front-grill/

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Weld-Adhesive-DP190-Translucent/dp/B0074N8N3W/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1371558594&sr=1-1&keywords=scotchweld+dp190

"
Bonds wood, aluminum, glass and ceramics.

Fast setting. High shear strength.

Temperature range is -67°F to 300°F.
"
 
The 3m adhesive is very good but you need to prep the metal well with epoxy adhesives. Plexus adhesive is amazing stuff if you don't want something to come unstuck.
 
Thank you Jamie
..back on topic ..what is the stock potentiometer on Crack ??

P.S. my 400s "kick the bucket" ..they couldn't handle all that crack  :) ....HD 650 inbound ..hope I like it 
 
We do offer a companion product to the Crack that we believe is the finest level control on the market...

(It also gives you three additional inputs)
 
Caucasian Blackplate said:
We do offer a companion product to the Crack that we believe is the finest level control on the market...

(It also gives you three additional inputs)

and what would that be ?
 
^^ Thanks Kris ,Ill pass ..was just wondering what would be recommended/equivalent  replacement for stock pot that's all ,I guess I won't get straight answer

 
There are numerous threads about pot replacements in the Crack folder.  Do a quick search on "pot" or "attenuator" and you will probably find a hundred hits.

There is a PEC pot that is popular, there is a TDK pot, Goldpoint attenuators, Bent Audio attenuators, attenuators from Varlab (can't quite remember the name) and handshare electronics on ebay. 

The word is to buy discrete resistors not SMD resistors. The leaded resistors sound the best.
 
thanks 49
I think I will be able to pick one out of three
Noble AP25 Dual 100K
Alpha (this one looks like a stock)
and I just ordered PEC POT 100K OHM 2W DUAL LOG TAPER

P.S. thanks for enlarging text  :o

as for resistors on phone jack ,will this work ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271111995998?_trksid=p2048036

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221372130207?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


one more thing ..if anyone is interested in a sweet base for Crack let me know

 

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The first link goes to carbon film resistors, state of the art in the 70s but you would want metal film today.  The metal film is more stable at higher temperatures found in tubed equipment.

The second ones seem to be metal film but I can not find any indication of the makeup in the auction.
 
I wouldnt be crazy about either.  The PRP are generally well spoken of but those listed are the general purpose range http://www.prpinc.com/?mod=product&id=2 and not their audio range http://www.prpinc.com/?mod=product&id=5.  What the difference is i dont know as both are metal film.

I have used the PR9372's in the past but personally i would just stick with regular Dale Rn55 resistors, at least they are a known quantity when used in the audio path.  Having said that i am not sure if they are in the audio path once a headphone is inserted into the socket, in which case anything will do.
 
this looks like direct replacement (Dale Rn55 ) but only 1/8W
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay/RN55D2491FB14/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugp4AYbWju4Dc4CSf%2fRjVO%252b6UyJ%2f2s%252bRpk%3d
 
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