TheCoolDoc
New member
Strikkflypilot said:
It is not even though it seems like so. Would it have caused the issue if it had touched in the past?
Btw, are these voltages in anyway safe for listening?
Please help! Fuse blows immediately; can't find issue.
- Thread starter TheCoolDoc
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It is not even though it seems like so. Would it have caused the issue if it had touched in the past?
Btw, are these voltages in anyway safe for listening?
Strikkflypilot
New member
The voltages are way out of specs. Wait till the experts are back. It seems no power is exiting the 6080 for the headphones, maybe the tube itself is broken. As I understand, heater voltage is applied as the 12AU7 lights up on both sides although the 6080 remains unlit.
TheCoolDoc
New member
Strikkflypilot said:
Yes it seems so. I've checked multiple times to make sure the tube is plugged in properly. For resistance readings I'm now getting overload on terminals where * is the targeted reading. Earlier I was getting it in the 100s. (1, 2, 4, 5, 13). Is this because of re-soldering?
I tried testing the voltages without the 6080 plugged in and still got wacky T1-T5 readings (higher than it should be). Then I properly plugged it back in and still no luck. T 7 and 9 are 0.
Strikkflypilot
New member
If You want, You can test the individual caps by setting Your meter to ohms, unplugging the amp from the mains of course, and attach the test leads on either side of the caps, so the caps get charged by the battery in Your meter. Switch the leads, and the opposite happens.
If they react like this, at least the caps most likely are ok.
If they react like this, at least the caps most likely are ok.
TheCoolDoc
New member
Strikkflypilot said:
Just tested all 5 capacitors and they're working I think. Got the 5s range for the blue ones attached to the octal socket terminal and for the three large ones I got 20s range and rising. Tested with the black/common prong on negative terminal at 2000kohms.
EDIT: Resistance check is back to normal, however, I've attached pictures of my tubes incase you were curious. I'm still not getting any voltage at 7 and 9, b3 and b6.
Attachments
B7/B8 are the connections that make the 6080 glow. Try reheating them. Your voltages will be pretty high until the 6080 is conducting.
-PB
-PB
TheCoolDoc
New member
Caucasian Blackplate said:
Still no luck. Is the tube abnormal? The 6080 tube isn't getting hot anymore either now.
fullheadofnothing
Moderator
That 6080 is gassy and will not work. You mentioned in your that you had to force it into the socket, you may have broken the glass while doing so. Was it always white at the top, or was it silvery when you first got it?
TheCoolDoc
New member
fullheadofnothing said:
It was always white, which is why I never considered it being dysfunctional. When it heated up that gave me even more conformation that it was perfectly fine. I never forced it in, it was just harder than I would find comfortable with a glass object, but it was snug.
fullheadofnothing
Moderator
Email replacementparts at bottlehead dot com for a replacement of the 6080. It will go out on Tuesday.
TheCoolDoc
New member
fullheadofnothing said:
Thank you for this. I've sent them an e-mail. Is there anything else I can do in the mean time to make sure I'm prepared for the new tube?
The only problems are terminals b6, b9, 7 and 9 give 0 on the voltage test. Are these 4 terminals because of the bad tube? Does that mean with a new tube theoretically all should be good and I should just not re-solder any terminals?
Ah, good catch, I missed the snowy white top 
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