No Left channel with Speedball upgrade

[Jaw22]

Replaced and still have 160V to OA.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

For clarification, do you have both LED's on the 9 pin socket glowing? Do they both glow with roughly the same intensity? 

 

[Jaw22]

Ya, they both glow and are the same intensity.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

I'm still quite confident that you have a soldering issue, as the first voltages that you posted showed a working PC board, and the high voltage followed that side of the PC board when you swapped it around.  You might consider getting a hold of replacement parts to obtain a new small board for the front to give it another shot, but before you do, try reheating the board joints one more time.

When you reheat a transistor joint, wait till the entire solder pad melts, then count to 3 to let it flow well. 

 

[Jaw22]

I gave it one more try and gave the transistors a good heating the way you said to do, but still have the same issue. I think i'll just order a new small board kit and start over.

 

[Jaw22]

Okay, so after getting my new small board with all new parts, everything is working great now. I'm not sure what happened with the first one, maybe I somehow melted the inside of the board, but at least that was what the problem was.

The only thing I have that's annoying right now is the noise i'm getting from my computer when I go past 1/3 of the volume on the crack.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Yeah, computers are notoriously noisy.  If you have a toslink output on your computer, using that to connect to an inexpensive DAC will wipe the noise out.  Also, a USB DAC with its own power brick will generally also work.