New Crack build - question right off the bat [resolved]

If your soldering iron has a heat adjustment, I would turn it up as high as it would go and reflow a fair number of the joints.  In particular, B7/B8 look like they could use some extra heat, as do some of the joints where the UF4007s mount.
 
Paul Birkeland said:
If your soldering iron has a heat adjustment, I would turn it up as high as it would go and reflow a fair number of the joints.  In particular, B7/B8 look like they could use some extra heat, as do some of the joints where the UF4007s mount.

Thanks for much for taking the time to look at my wiring.
I went ahead and reflowed all the joints.  Will check resistance again when my new DMM shows up (the new batteries yielded the same LCD issues).

One more question though:  When resistance is checked the black lead on the DMM is supposed to be connected the ground bus, is that the 12U on the terminal strip?  It seems like a better place to put the black lead is on the chassis ground?  I guess my more pointed question is the 12U tab the ground bus?
 
So here's my preliminary resistance numbers.
I hope I didn't screw the pooch when it cam to putting the kit together.
These don't loo

1.  * - mine -> infinity
2.  * - mine -> infinity
3.  0  - mine -> 0
4.  * - mine -> infinity
5.  * - mine -> infinity

6.    0 - mine -> 2.49
7.    2.9 - mine -> 2.92
8.    0 - mine -> 0
9.    2.9 - mine -> 2.93
10.  0 - mine -> 2.48

12.  0 - mine -> 0
13.  * - mine -> 0
14.  0 - mine -> 0

20.  0 - mine -> 0
22.  0 - mine -> 0

B3 2.9 - mine -> 2.92
B6 2.9 - mine -> 2.93

RCA Jacks
Center Pin 90-115 - mine -> infinity
Ground tab 0 - mine -> 0

Some of these seem way off.  This is with the old multi-meter.  I can get a the digit before the decimal point to show if I put some pressure on the LCD with my screen.  Also, I am using the 20K range on the Ohm meter.  And lastly, the alligator clips are the press in kind that fit over the top of the pointy lead (which may just be a bad connection).
When I say infinity, it's the reading that you get when the red lead is not connected to anything.
 
Can you post some photos of your build?  Specifically I am very interested in the wiring around your headphone jack.

Absolutely to not attempt to power up this Crack just yet.
 
Hey absolutely Paul!  I am actually scared to apply power to it, especially until I get my new DMM.
Here's a photo.  Let me know if it's not good enough and I will try to get a better one.
 

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Can you check the DC resistance between terminal 12 and all the lugs on the headphone jack?  Also, you didn't have anything plugged into the 1/4" jack when you did your resistance measurements, right?
 
Doh!  I did have a 1/4" to 1/8" adapter plugged in.  I forgot it was there.
After removing the adapter, all looks good except for the center pins of the RCA's.
Both are showing infinity.
 
Just wanted to let you guys know that I received my new DMM this morning and re-did the resistance checks again, and we're all good!
This new one is auto ranging which helps a lot!

Also, I wanted to thank you both for your support and troubleshooting help!
Thank you!
 
Voltages check out too!
I did hear a pop when I connected the ground clip to the 12 terminal but I never saw any smoke or anything, and the voltages all check out.
Will connect the inputs and headphones soon and try it out.
Thanks again!
 
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