Nothing particularly important. More info on this glow can be found here:ebag4 said:
http://www.jacmusic.com/techcorner/ARTICLES/English-neu/blueglow/blueglow.htm (see Type 1)
My Kaiju Has Arrived!
- Thread starter ebag4
- Start date
http://www.jacmusic.com/techcorner/ARTICLES/English-neu/blueglow/blueglow.htm (see Type 1)
My first attempt at a wrap job taught me quite a bit, for instance don't primer the day before and don't primer at all if you are going to use the 3m adhesive promoter. When you do either or both of these things you stand a good chance of it peeling off and sticking to the vinyl adhesive.
I have enough vinyl to pull this off, sand, and try again. I believe it will go better next time which will probably be this weekend. Here are a couple of pics for your amusement. You can get an idea of what I am going for:
Best,
Ed
I have enough vinyl to pull this off, sand, and try again. I believe it will go better next time which will probably be this weekend. Here are a couple of pics for your amusement. You can get an idea of what I am going for:
Best,
Ed
Thanks guys, modern was the goal. I veneered my last speakers and Stereomour , I wanted to try something else. My current speakers are modern looking as well I think. I'm giving the equipment in my avatar to my son, that opened up the opportunity to build the Kaiju and new speakers ( massive rationalization) 
.
I received my Clarity MRs and Jupiter Coppers today, unfortunately one of the leads on the coppers broke off before I could get a soldering iron on it. I had a pair of Jupiter wax here, so I installed those in the copper's place. I'm glad the BH team thought to give us extra space, the Clarity MRs 10uF are BIG. One side it is closer quarters than the other due to the terminal strip on the "A" side next to the power transformer, I actually had to bend it over a bit and I put a strip of electrical tape on the back of it as a precaution. The cap doesn't quite touch the electrolytic caps and large resistors. I would caution those who are considering a different 10uF cap that may be larger, to make certain you leave additional lead length on the electrolytics that are supposed to ride above (below when the amp is in place) the large resistors. This is due to the potential for the large cap pushing the electrolytic sideways enough to touch the resistor. I had enough lead but not by much. Here is a pic:
Best
Ed
.I received my Clarity MRs and Jupiter Coppers today, unfortunately one of the leads on the coppers broke off before I could get a soldering iron on it. I had a pair of Jupiter wax here, so I installed those in the copper's place. I'm glad the BH team thought to give us extra space, the Clarity MRs 10uF are BIG. One side it is closer quarters than the other due to the terminal strip on the "A" side next to the power transformer, I actually had to bend it over a bit and I put a strip of electrical tape on the back of it as a precaution. The cap doesn't quite touch the electrolytic caps and large resistors. I would caution those who are considering a different 10uF cap that may be larger, to make certain you leave additional lead length on the electrolytics that are supposed to ride above (below when the amp is in place) the large resistors. This is due to the potential for the large cap pushing the electrolytic sideways enough to touch the resistor. I had enough lead but not by much. Here is a pic:
Best
Ed
I finished my base, as finished as I am going to get it. I learned more about wrapping this go around, I think one or two more tries and I could get it close to right. This version is good, has a few flaws, but my execution and choices were much better this time, a Pic for your amusement :
I cut out sockets in the feet for the Herbies tenderfeet to sit in, they hold the unit off the shelf about a quarter inch.
Best,
Ed
I cut out sockets in the feet for the Herbies tenderfeet to sit in, they hold the unit off the shelf about a quarter inch.
Best,
Ed
Let the break-in begin....again ;D
I recieved my replacement Jupiter Copper foil, they are burning in now.
The Kaiju is sounding great, the 5 stars are shining. I am considering the DC conversion although I would like to be able to install a switch (or two) to be able to go back to AC, I don't know what changes are made to the base build or if it is possible.
Reading numerous reviews on various 300Bs, I would like to roll a pair or two to determine the differences. Going with the JJ 2A3s in my Stereomour was a significant upgrade in sound, I would like to find out if the same holds true for the Kaiju .
Best,
Ed
I recieved my replacement Jupiter Copper foil, they are burning in now.
The Kaiju is sounding great, the 5 stars are shining. I am considering the DC conversion although I would like to be able to install a switch (or two) to be able to go back to AC, I don't know what changes are made to the base build or if it is possible.
Reading numerous reviews on various 300Bs, I would like to roll a pair or two to determine the differences. Going with the JJ 2A3s in my Stereomour was a significant upgrade in sound, I would like to find out if the same holds true for the Kaiju .
Best,
Ed
drewh1
New member
should be possible to switch it in and out of AC/DC. to install the DC, You basically reroute the heater wires (4 green) to the DC regulator board and run 4 wires from the DC board to the heater terminals. I guess you would need to make sure the switch you use isolates the two loads completely while switching.
drewh1
New member
I hear you on this break-in stuff. Tubes are just starting to sound decent and tomorrow I install some new Mundorf silver/oil 10uf caps.
Just to give you a little feedback on the EML's. they are starting to open up and sound fantastic. Very holographic and the soundstage is excellent. They have the same clarity and detail in the highs as my 2a3's with really solid bass. These are very musical and engaging tubes. Hopefully with a few more hours they will sound even better. Very happy with the tubes, although I will never buy anything from TubesUSA again for obvious reason.
just blew a driver tube though, sparked and the glass cracked. Pretty dramatic. Maybe have to try some other varieties. Bummer, I was just starting to have fun!
Just to give you a little feedback on the EML's. they are starting to open up and sound fantastic. Very holographic and the soundstage is excellent. They have the same clarity and detail in the highs as my 2a3's with really solid bass. These are very musical and engaging tubes. Hopefully with a few more hours they will sound even better. Very happy with the tubes, although I will never buy anything from TubesUSA again for obvious reason.
just blew a driver tube though, sparked and the glass cracked. Pretty dramatic. Maybe have to try some other varieties. Bummer, I was just starting to have fun!
The Kaiju continues to sound better, the Jupiter Coppers are breaking in nicely and I like their sound better than the Wax. I believe the improvement in sound is attributable to the coppers as the rest of the amp is starting to get quite a few hours on it, the 10uF clarity MRs may still have a way to go but I doubt there is too much change left in them.
The Kaiju is officially a good move for me. I love my Stereomour but the Kaiju is digging a little deeper I think, even hi passed around 70hz, the lower midrange/upper bass seem to be more dynamic and the mids are amazing, I'm really loving it. It seems to be a bit more effortless with my 94dB speakers although the difference is subtle at the levels I listen. I can't wait to try some other 300Bs. I think I will go ahead with the DC filament supply to see if I can get that last bit of hum out of the system and to open the door for the EMLs.
Best,
Ed
The Kaiju is officially a good move for me. I love my Stereomour but the Kaiju is digging a little deeper I think, even hi passed around 70hz, the lower midrange/upper bass seem to be more dynamic and the mids are amazing, I'm really loving it. It seems to be a bit more effortless with my 94dB speakers although the difference is subtle at the levels I listen. I can't wait to try some other 300Bs. I think I will go ahead with the DC filament supply to see if I can get that last bit of hum out of the system and to open the door for the EMLs.
Best,
Ed
