My Crack Build

Hi Grainger, Desmond,
Quick answers as always! Thanks for the posts and notes!!

I think I'll go with wires from tubedepot
http://tubedepot.com/wire.html

I'll get some 20ga solid cloth wires for all the wiring and i'll order some 18ga just in case I'll like to use them.

What do you think? Is that ok?

LA
 
The current, which needs a larger wire, is in the plate/cathode circuits and in the heaters.  24 AWG, I don't know the metric equivalent, should carry all the current that there is in the Crack.  Maybe I will drag out an NEC and verify the ampacity of #24.

Edit:  Looked, #24 wasn't listed but #27 is good for 1/2 amp, #20 for 5 amps.  I think you are safe in the Crack with #24 (nope see PJ's post below) 20 or larger.
 
Lior,

That's the exact lin I was going to send you.  the 20 gauge cloth/pvc solid core should do fine for everything in the Crack.  No need for the 18 gauge on the filaments and  there's no twisted shielded pair in the Crack, so that's all you'll need.  Lots of colors too!  Just don't get the stranded -- stick with solid core.

HTH,

Jim
 
Have you seen Triodelectronics offerings? Looks like a good deal too.
http://triodeelectronics.com/wire.html
I have used them before, and they are reliable, I've use tubedepot as well and they are as well.
 
Hmmm, that looks to be a possibly better option -- it's 22 gauge, which is also fine for the crack and probably eaisier to work with in some places, double cloth insulation and good for 600volts.
 
THANKS ALL!!!
I'll go with the tubedepot wires.
I'll make the order now, is it worth adding two gold plated ceramic tube chassis mounts? like this one:
http://tubedepot.com/sk-9ping.html
(and of course the 8 pins one as well)

Or maybe those belton high quality?
http://tubedepot.com/belton.html

It's a few bucks and I'll be paying shipping anyway...
Also, is there anything else I can add that I'll might need later on?


Thanks again,
LA

 
The Belton look nice, The last one, the 9 pin wave, is in my Ah! CD player. It's a very good socket...John
 
I converted my Extended Foreplay 2 or 3 weeks ago.

I used two Belton octal sockets that I had bought a few years back, plus the original ceramic one for the regulator.

Be advised that the Belton octal socket is 1 3/16 inches in diameter and may not fit the hole in the chassis plate. I had to enlarge those in the Foreplay with a file to fit them. Not a pleasing experience. I had assumed, wrongly, that all octal sockets were the same size.

Make sure the socket you order fits the hole you have.

Richard
 
richmi said:
  .  .  .  Be advised that the Belton octal socket is 1 3/16 inches in diameter and may not fit the hole in the chassis plate. I had to enlarge those in the Foreplay with a file to fit them.  .  .  .   
Click to expand...

If you can find a ream that fits the hole it will enlarge it easily and a little at a time.  Failing that find a stepped drill bit that is larger than the existing hole.  I have done both and prefer the ream but they are hard to find these days.
 
Hi all,
Thanks for the cooperation so far!
Has anyone tried using the ALPS POT Mounting Board from AMB?
http://www.amb.org/audio/epsilon27/

I was wondering if it's going to make life easier with soldering to the POT legs...
Also, sound wise? any influence?

Thanks,
LA
 
No, I havent seen it but would have considered it if I knew about it.  I actually though about making a PCB for the connectons.  I have built a couple kits from AMB so Im surprised I didnt notice it.  It looks like you need to use molex crimp (or solder) connectors to wire to and then these plug into the headers on the board.  Im not so sure I like that.  Makes for extra solder/crimp connections.  Pot to board, header to board, wire to molex plug and plug to header instead of wire soldered direct to pot.    But I imagine you could skip the headers and solder the wires directly to board.  Just one extra connection/joint and the traces.  But none of the additional connections may matter, may just be me obsessing. 

All that said, the Alps pot is not very difficult to solder directly to the pins.  I think I mentioned that I just used 22 AWG solid core instead of the 20 AWG included with the kit.  Just made it a little easier with the smaller and more flexible 22 AWG.
 
I posted a pic in the pot-attenuator thread that will illustrate my comments.
I'm sure the pcb mount works-functions just fine.... but, remember that the Alps pot fits perfectly as is ( with the speedball upgrade) between the ccs boards and the base wall.  It looks like this pcb mount will add a couple of cm to the width of the pot.  It may not be possible to use it with out moving lots of stuff around, esp. with the speedball upgrade.
Im on my phone, othrwise I would link the pic here.
Here is a Alps in a speedballed crack.
http://www.bottlehead.com/smf/index.php/topic,1508.0.html
 
Wow, how nice to have a helpful dad with a fabulous machine shop! Looking good!
 
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