Loud pop and no sound from right ear

[l33tsauce7]

I sat down at my desk and when I grabbed my headphones there was a tiny static shock at the headphone jack and a loud pop that seemed to maybe come from the can and not the amp. Since then ive had no sound in my right ear despite swapping tubes. I checked my old schiit magni and all works as normal so the headphones are fine.

I do not see any burn marks, did not see any smoke, and there is no smell on the crack. I see no blown up resistors, no bulging caps, nothing looks out of the norm but there is no sound from the right ear. What could this be? I have had a lot of headache so far between microphonic tubes, interference with this amp that i didnt have on other amps and despite now taking extra precautions to remove said interference, and now this i guess grounding issue? 

edit: found this scorched looking LED that definitely is not from initial solder work. Where could I find a replacement and how can I prevent this going forward? My floor is wood and I don't shuffle my feet lol. I use the provided cables with my dt1990s and stuff as well.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

This is very, very often a loose black wire on the headphone jack not captured by solder.

 

[l33tsauce7]

This is very, very often a loose black wire on the headphone jack not captured by solder.

All connections (on both ends) are solid as far as I can tell.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

I would tug a bit on that lower wire to be sure it's well soldered. 

 

[l33tsauce7]

Yep solid. I did edit my original post with a seemingly scorched LED incase you haven't seen that yet.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

How are your DC voltages?

 

[l33tsauce7]

Across what points? please excuse my ignorance

ill check them all derp

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Pages 19 and 30 of the Speedball manual list the voltage checks for each board.

 

[l33tsauce7]

Pages 19 and 30 of the Speedball manual list the voltage checks for each board.

OB on the large board for the speed ball is reading 200 volts instead of the usual 85ish. also the LEDs are dead on that side now coinciding with the burn marks i found a little bit ago.

 

[l33tsauce7]

Went ahead and placed an order for a few replacement LEDs. Hopefully it's a simple swap and won't happen again

 

[Paul Birkeland]

I would also replace the 2N2222 and TIP50 on that side of the board.  When all the parts are off, you can verify that the resistors measure properly without taking them off the board.