Inherited monoblocks - What model is this and how to improve?
- Thread starter absolutk
- Start date
I'll clarify - I would *love* to pursue the iron upgrade. It's just that I'm stuck in a rut amongst two audio projects (this and a small solid state integrated); I need a simple win to get unjammed. On both, it's the chassis.
Is there a universal method used to secure the Paramour plate to a chassis? Internet pictures don't seem to indicate so. Right now they sit atop two rough rectangular frames, unsecured. I suppose I'd have to measure/drill holes and screw them into the chassis I design?
Also, would it be a major faux pas to move the I/Os to the rear instead of the top? Is having them on the top a Bottlehead signature?
Is there a universal method used to secure the Paramour plate to a chassis? Internet pictures don't seem to indicate so. Right now they sit atop two rough rectangular frames, unsecured. I suppose I'd have to measure/drill holes and screw them into the chassis I design?
Also, would it be a major faux pas to move the I/Os to the rear instead of the top? Is having them on the top a Bottlehead signature?
The iron upgrade does indeed open up the #45 more so than the stock iron.
No, it's not a faux pas to mess with the enclosure design. We use the plate and base method because it's incredibly easy to go back in and fix issues or apply modifications down the road compared to having components mounted to multiple panels at different angles. Here is an example of a pair of Paramour monoblocks that I converted into a stereo amp.
You can get binding posts intended for speakers and just install them through the wood base. I sell a metal plate and IEC power entry module on eBay that can be installed into wood with a hole saw and some wood screws. To move the RCA jacks to the wood base, I install the RCA jack on the biggest fender washer I can find, prewire the RCA jack, drill a hole in the base, then use polyurethane adhesive to glue the fender washer to the wood. If you have an oil finish on the base, you'd need to sand it off first.
No, it's not a faux pas to mess with the enclosure design. We use the plate and base method because it's incredibly easy to go back in and fix issues or apply modifications down the road compared to having components mounted to multiple panels at different angles. Here is an example of a pair of Paramour monoblocks that I converted into a stereo amp.
You can get binding posts intended for speakers and just install them through the wood base. I sell a metal plate and IEC power entry module on eBay that can be installed into wood with a hole saw and some wood screws. To move the RCA jacks to the wood base, I install the RCA jack on the biggest fender washer I can find, prewire the RCA jack, drill a hole in the base, then use polyurethane adhesive to glue the fender washer to the wood. If you have an oil finish on the base, you'd need to sand it off first.
Attachments
Natural Sound
New member
absolutk said:
Most people are fine with using gravity to hold the top plate in place. But I understand that there are some instances where this is insufficient. What I've seen most commonly here is to glue some wood blocks in the corners of the wood base and then drill some holes in the top plate. Then it's just a matter of screwing the top plate down into the newly installed blocks.
Alternatively you can purchase some bamboo bases from Blumenstein Audio. Their design captures the top plate in a groove around the top of the base.
https://www.blumensteinaudio.com/all-products/wooden-amplifier-bases-for-bottlehead-amplifiers