Identifying Supplied Parts

J

JosephDuffy

New member
Hi everyone,

After a couple of shipping issues, my kit finally arrived today! :D However, I'm struggling to identify a couple of the parts and wanted to make sure I'm putting the correct parts in. Most parts I've managed to figure out via their quantities/general knowledge/Google, but I'm stuck on a couple:

4x #8-32 x 1-1/4" Screws - Are these the longer screws, about 1.75" in length? I thought they'd be 1.25", but they aren't and the only other set of 4 screws appear to be the 6-32 x 3/8" Screws. These, however, appear to be the correct length.

4x #8 fiber shoulder washers - I seemed to get 8 of these since I have 8 of both the should washers, and I'm assuming the #8 are to be bigger than the #6.

4x #8 star lockwasher - I have 4 "inner" lockwashers and 4 "outer" lockwashers. Picture of the 2 sets of 4 next to each other

2x [#6 and #8] solder tabs - I can tell what the solder tabs are, but all 4 seem to be the same size? Picture of all 4 solder tabs

3x [#6 and #8 round] lockwashers - Again, I have 6 lockwashers, but I cannot see a size difference between them. Picture of the 6 lockwashers I have

Finally, whilst putting the binding posts in, I found that I have some washers/lockerwashers left. They seemed to go with 3 gold washers then 2 black lockwashers, then 2 nuts. However, when put back on, they only have 1 gold washer then 2 nuts. Is this the correct outcome?
 
Yes, the long screws are the long screws. I never noticed the typo on the parts list page, they're called out correctly as 1 3/4" when used in the manual (p.14)

Yes, #8 shoulders are bigger than #6 shoulders. I was probably distracted when packing your bag and threw in some extra #8 shoulders. Sell 'em on eBay for HUGE BUCKS!!!

Another term for star lockwashers is external tooth lockwashers.

If you can't tell the size difference between #6 and #8 hardware, try sticking a #8 screw through them. It'll pass through an 8, but not a 6.

As long as your binding posts are secure, you should be fine. Don't overtighten though, you can break them.
 
fullheadofnothing said:
Yes, the long screws are the long screws. I never noticed the typo on the parts list page, they're called out correctly as 1 3/4" when used in the manual (p.14)

Yes, #8 shoulders are bigger than #6 shoulders. I was probably distracted when packing your bag and threw in some extra #8 shoulders. Sell 'em on eBay for HUGE BUCKS!!!

Another term for star lockwashers is external tooth lockwashers.

If you can't tell the size difference between #6 and #8 hardware, try sticking a #8 screw through them. It'll pass through an 8, but not a 6.

As long as your binding posts are secure, you should be fine. Don't overtighten though, you can break them.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the generous donation of shoulder washers! I've managed to figure out the solder tabs, so thanks for that.

My current issue is still the #8 star lockwashers, for which I seem to have 2 sets of 4, one external tooth and one internal tooth, and then 6 (round) lockwashers, which I can't get my #8 screws to go through. Is it possible that the actual 4 "start lockwashers" are the external tooth lockwashers, the other 4 lockwashers in the picture are the #8 lockwashers (that there should be 3 of) and that the other 6 lockwashers I have (that all seem to be #6) are the #6 lockwashers, and I accidentally received 6, rather than 3?

Thanks for the help! Any idea about the binding posts, too?
 
External tooth lockwashers are star lockwashers.  These things have quite a tendency  to stick together, so having a few extras isn't too abnormal.

A lot of this gets covered pretty well in the manual, as the hardware mounting steps are loaded with photos.

-PB
 
I sorted through my kit this evening and this thread is still too confusing to follow :)

I sorting mine by reading through the assembly manual / process of elimination and ended up with 3-4 locking washers left over. Same with the binding posts, came with two washers, two lock washers, two nuts, but manual says to use one washer and two nuts.  You get more than you need basically, so as long as your not short dont worry about it.
 
If you build it like the pictures and you have extra parts left, well, you just have extra parts left.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. Really reassuring! :) It's my first big build so I'm just being over cautious.

Can anyone recommend any RCA cables or a power cable (for the UK)? Seems like the last step.

Again, thanks for all the help everyone. Such a great community!

Edit: I'm on the power transformer part, but my power transformer seems to be bigger on one side (a visible "bump" along the right side when viewed from both the top and bottom sides. Obviously the "bump" is on the left of the bottom side.) This is (I think) preventing me from being able to add the final nut. I can put the nut on without the #8 solder tab, but not with it on. Any ideas?
 
Do you have the black fiber washers in place so that the shouldered part is centering the washer in the hole through the chassis plate?
 
Caucasian Blackplate said:
Do you have the black fiber washers in place so that the shouldered part is centering the washer in the hole through the chassis plate?
Click to expand...

I made sure to put the fiber shoulder washers in the holes in the chassis plate with the shouldered part going in to the hole. A couple of them needed swapping around to help them fit in to the hole, bit I got the shoulder in to the holes in the end

Edit: After looking at it more, it look like it's got excess glue on it. If this were the case, would a knife/nail file be suitable to help get this down enough?
 
The Nylon transformer washers will negate most of the effects of the glue.  If you need to scrape a little off, you can do it carefully with a hobby knife, or screws that are slightly longer are an option as well.

-PB
 
Whoever made these transformers likes their gluey stuff. I spent an hour or two sanding it off in prep for paint as there was a large run on the outside of the transformer that looked unpleasant. At least on yours it cant be seen so just sand it flat.
 
mcandmar said:
Whoever made these transformers likes their gluey stuff. I spent an hour or two sanding it off in prep for paint as there was a large run on the outside of the transformer that looked unpleasant. At least on yours it cant be seen so just sand it flat.
Click to expand...

I've got it down a bit but it also looks like the transformer has one of the metal layers (the one with the corder I'm working on) is slightly lifted, compared to the others.

I want to sand it a bit more to try and counter this, but I don't know if completely removing the glue (which appears to be around the entire thing) would cause any damage?

The option, as mentioned above, is to get a longer screw, which I might have to do
 
JosephDuffy said:
I want to sand it a bit more to try and counter this, but I don't know if completely removing the glue (which appears to be around the entire thing) would cause any damage?

The option, as mentioned above, is to get a longer screw, which I might have to do
Click to expand...
Yeah, I wouldn't remove the lamination.
 
Caucasian Blackplate said:
JosephDuffy said:
I want to sand it a bit more to try and counter this, but I don't know if completely removing the glue (which appears to be around the entire thing) would cause any damage?

The option, as mentioned above, is to get a longer screw, which I might have to do
Click to expand...
Yeah, I wouldn't remove the lamination.
Click to expand...

I don't really want to try and remove any more since it's already pretty thin now and I can see that one part of it has kind of "dislodged", e.g. it's that lighter more cloudy state from trying to get the screw to stick out a little further. Hopefully this won't get any worse since I'm assuming that it'd make a bit of a difference if it was removed.

I guess a longer screw is the main option now.
 
I went to town today and tried to find some bolts. I don't think we have the "#8" system here, but I used this conversion chart to try and find the right size. I bought some but they're not the right size, and they seemed to be all they had that were anywhere near the right size, but they're a little bit too big.

Can anyone give me a better term I could use to maybe find another bolt online? For the record, I need the "#8-32 x 1-3/4" screw". Does it have to any specific material/coating/etc.?

Sorry for flooding the forums recently and thanks for all the help everyone!
 
Hi Joseph,

With the blob of varnish sanded down so the white plastic insert fits flush it should all go together for you?

The only bolt that is slightly short on mine was the one holding the earthing tab (closest to mains connector), its only about 2/3rds of the way through the nut, and that bolt was fitted without the locking ring sitting on the top plate. (seems odd to have it there anyway)

Also it can take a bit of wiggling to get the black fibre washers to sit down in the top panel, but once it there you shouldn't have any issues.

As for bolts sizes, unfortunately our American friends are yet to discover the metric system and refer to everything in relation to "almost, but not quite an inch" by odd number fractions of which divisions seems totally arbitrary.  If i asked my local hardware shop for a "#8-32 x 1-3/4 screw" i would get bemused looks...  If you really want to change it just replace the entire nut/bolt assembly with something metric that fits.  I think 8.32 is UNC speak for M4 x 0.7 thread, and 1-3/4" is ~ 45mm, so add a bit of length and buy 50mm or 55mm.
 
mcandmar said:
Hi Joseph,

With the blob of varnish sanded down so the white plastic insert fits flush it should all go together for you?

The only bolt that is slightly short on mine was the one holding the earthing tab (closest to mains connector), its only about 2/3rds of the way through the nut, and that bolt was fitted without the locking ring sitting on the top plate. (seems odd to have it there anyway)

Also it can take a bit of wiggling to get the black fibre washers to sit down in the top panel, but once it there you shouldn't have any issues.

As for bolts sizes, unfortunately our American friends are yet to discover the metric system and refer to everything in relation to "almost, but not quite an inch" by odd number fractions of which divisions seems totally arbitrary.  If i asked my local hardware shop for a "#8-32 x 1-3/4 screw" i would get bemused looks...  If you really want to change it just replace the entire nut/bolt assembly with something metric that fits.  I think 8.32 is UNC speak for M4 x 0.7 thread, and 1-3/4" is ~ 45mm, so add a bit of length and buy 50mm or 55mm.
Click to expand...

I could probably sand it down a little further, but I'm scared to since it looks like the varnish is going to come off if I tighten the bolt/nut anyway so I don't it to be any more likely to come off and cause any issues.

I could probably fit it on without the top #8 lockwasher on the top (the one for the earth, which is the one I'm having issues with), so if it's confirmed that that's ok then I'll just remove that one. If not, I'll have to buy a few bolts and experiment.

For the record, this is the bolt holding the earthing tab, and it would work without one of the #8 lockwashers (which is on top of the bell end)
 
Yeah, ditch the locking ring on the top plate, that's what i did for mine.  I don't think it serves any purpose being there as the earthing tab functions as a locking ring anyway.  Why it was added there is a mystery to me, and looks fugly too.

Just to clarify, we are talking about the washer in this paragraph on p.14
( ) Slip a round #8 lockwasher over one 1-3/4
Click to expand...
 
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