FPIII Selector switch replacement > Goldpoint 4P1D-3

[Natural Sound]

I haven't had much luck with the stock switches used for the Whispers or the Selector Switch in my Foreplay III. Maybe I just got a bad batch or something. Anyway, I have already replaced the attenuators with the mini-V series from Goldpoint. I really like them. Now I'd like to replace the input selector switch. In the other forum Paul Joppa said that the 4P1D-3 is "electrically identical with the stock switch." Has anyone tried this? I'm getting ready to order one but wanted to hear from people that have installed one. Any wiring tips or photographs you may have would be helpful.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

I have put a few of these into Foreplay III's.  There are no surprises during the installation IMO.  You may want to stock up on whatever padding resistor you use and just replace them as you do the installation.

 

[debk]

I am building my Foreplay III now and am using Goldpoint Attenuators and a Goldpoint 4P-3T-1D selector switch. I will post some pictures when I get a chance.

Debra

 

[debk]

Couple of pictures with the Goldpoint attenuators and selector switch

Build thread on Emotiva forum
http://emotivalounge.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=diy&thread=11495&page=1


Debra

 

[Paul Birkeland]

I'm loving the purple.  Are you considering doing speakers? 

 

[debk]

Funny you should ask that.  When the Foreplay is done I am going to start on the speakers.  I bought the Tritrix kit from parts express.  Maybe not the best speaker, but I have never built speakers. With woodworking not being my forte, it seemed like a decent kit for a first time.  I am planning on covering them with purpleheart wood vener, and finishing it with tung oil.  Probably will not be as purple as the Foreplay, but should look nice.

This DIY stuff is very addictive.  When the speakers are done will have to look into building an amp.


Debra

 

[Anton]

Debra,
Just wanted to thank you for this post. I was replacing selector switch and attenuators on my Foreplay today with the ones from Goldpoint and your pictures were really helpful.

Anton

 

[debk]

Anton

Glad it was helpful


Debra

 

[Oberst Oswald]

What ohms did you two select on the Goldpoint attenuators... 10k or 20k?

 

[debk]

I made 15K attenuators.

If you are looking to get the attenuators with the resistors already in them, either the 10K or 20K should work fine.

Debra

 

[intojazz]

Hello Debra,
I'm curious what brand of resistors you used for the goldpoint attenuators? Vishay?
Thanks,
John

 

[Grainger49]

Debra,

If Vishay, what version.  There are so many different substrate and construction methods available.

 

[Yoder]

If Vishay, what version.  There are so many different substrate and construction methods available.

In this thread I link to military grade Vishay-Dales 1% 100ppm. http://www.bottlehead.com/smf/index.php/topic,2929.msg24657.html#msg24657 They are supposed to be low noise, but I went with the IRC's since it seems that no one has tried them...thought I would be the guinea pig. I created the Vishay-Dale project June11, and the price has gone down considerably. If I remember correctly, they were roughly half the price of the IRC's when I made the project. Note: The Vishay project is for constructing a 100K attenuator and should not be used in the Foreplay.

Question: What are some possible results in going from 15k to 20k attenuators in the Foreplay? If drastic, I figured a way to correct it, but I am curious if there is any profound effect.

 

[Grainger49]

The most obvious answer to me is that the  voltage divider formed by the series 33k resistors changes when you go to a 20k attenuator instead of 15k.  Not by much but it changes.  But you always have a hand full of series resistors that came with the kit to play with.