Crack wiring options and tube socket PCB useage.

Sorry, been on travel. Thanks for the correct terminal info; I was going from faulty memory. So do you think the gold content may offset some of the need for shielding? Also, I was wondering if "bigger gauge" for upgrading the copper power path wire meant bigger # as in 24>22 or if it is convention is 22 gauge is > 24 gauge in diameter (probably the later I think). If so I was thinking of using Jupiter cotton clad 18 gauge. Thanks again guys!! I shouldn't obsess but what fun!
 
I doubt the 1% gold will have any noticeable effect on the magnetic susceptibility, in fact, I'm not even sure the silver wire will pick up any more hum in this amp as I've never tried it.

Yes, number two is right -- 22 gauge is larger than 24 gauge -- meaning larger cross-sectional area.

Not sure I would use cotton for power wiring though.

-- Jim
 
Thanks, good point, though I'm not sure if its 1%. The z-wire was made by a now defunct company, and the seller on e-bay bought from a now defunct audio shop for $1500 a spool when it was going out of business. It sure looks higher than 1% in that its deffinately not silver in color! Should be interesting.
 
I'm not sure what an optimum gauge is.  The kit comes with either 24 or 22, and those are perfectly adequate.  Anything beyond that would have to be left to experimentation -- keep swapping power wiring until you hear something you like.  Not sure how much difference you'll hear with a headphone amp as it really doesn't draw huge current surges.

If it's any consolation, I used 20 awg neotech/FIM pvc OCC for power and filament wiring.

I have also decided to just go ahead with the mundorf 24 gauage silver/gold for my signal wiring up to the grids of the VA tube, and leave the teflon on it.  I will shield it with some small tinned copper braid between the RCAs and PEC pot though.

-- Jim
 
There are different philosophies about wire gauge at amplified voltages.  One says use a small path, high number gauge, for a pure sound.  The other says that a fat wire, 0 or 00 would be gook (that is a joke, 00 is as big around as a nickel), for best bass response.  

The fact is that 22 gauge (AWG) will carry all the current a Crack can supply.  The larger the wire the more current it will carry.  It has nothing to do with voltage, just current.
 
jrebman said:
Not sure how much difference you'll hear with a headphone amp as it really doesn't draw huge current surges.

Grainger49 said:
The fact is that 22 gauge (AWG) will carry all the current a Crack can supply.  The larger the wire the more current it will carry.  It has nothing to do with voltage, just current.

And assuming that the Speedball is installed, one could argue that wiring is not going to be all that critical to current delivery......
 
Thanks guys.  My signal wire (z-cable) is 22.5. I'll stick with the stock cable for power (mine is 20 awg)...or get some nice bare occ 20 awg from parts connextion since I got lots of extra teflon tubing with the z-cable. I'll leave my signal cable (AU&AG) in teflon for now,and see if its too bright, though the AU content may(?) help here.
 
How is the sound quality changed if all the crack's stock cable changed with pure silver core cable? I'm a newbie in diy, very interest when hear the silver core cable interconect sound character. But a little fatigue in high tone, its get sibilance and 'overload' in treble. So is it possible to get the best sound when apply all the stock cable with it? Any suggestion to remove the sibilance and overload treble?
 
Thank you Grainger49. :)
1 more question, i saw many cracker-s changed stock cable(the rest of signal paths) with others like kimber, neotech etc which have well known better than carol. Is that has changed the sound qualitiy? I  plan not to re-cable again in future based on my bad solder ability. ;D
Any suggestion will be helped. Thank you.
 
Colin said:
How is the sound quality changed if all the crack's stock cable changed with pure silver core cable? I'm a newbie in diy, very interest when hear the silver core cable interconect sound character. But a little fatigue in high tone, its get sibilance and 'overload' in treble. So is it possible to get the best sound when apply all the stock cable with it? Any suggestion to remove the sibilance and overload treble?

A option that really helped  me with treble and sibilance was bypassing the output capacitors with some of those inexpensive Russian Teflon capacitors I really liked the results. Quiet a few Cracks owners have fitted them.
 
The Crack is not generally a sibilant amp. If anything is errs on the warm and tubey side. If one is experiencing sibilance it might be time to examine one's source component.
 
To be honest I never had any issues with sibilants when using the HD650's with the Crack but after later switching to T1 I did have a few tracks where it was more noticeable. I kept both cans during my wonder down the Crack upgrade path the difference adding the Teflon bypasses made I though was really very nice with the T1. Actually both phones scaled well the change noticed with the T1's more noticeable in fact I would go as far to say that I preferred the T1 over the HD800 with the Crack in the end. With the Mainline the HD800's are my preferred pairing.
 
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