How are your voltages? Can you post them?
Crack w/ Speedball intermittent crackling and fuzz [resolved]
- Thread starter Nignoog
- Start date
You got it. Here they are:
OA - 73
IA - 184
B-A/B - 0
IB - 183
OB - 71
OA - 107
OB - 110
G - 0
B+ - 184
These are nearly identical to the readings I submitted a few posts back. I did notice, however, that the bolded leads I measured produced static and fuzz when I touch the meter to them. On the small board OA affected the right channel and OB affected the left. On the large board I think OA affected both but that was less pronounced than the leads on the small board.
OA - 73
IA - 184
B-A/B - 0
IB - 183
OB - 71
OA - 107
OB - 110
G - 0
B+ - 184
These are nearly identical to the readings I submitted a few posts back. I did notice, however, that the bolded leads I measured produced static and fuzz when I touch the meter to them. On the small board OA affected the right channel and OB affected the left. On the large board I think OA affected both but that was less pronounced than the leads on the small board.
Does the channel balance issue persist with the volume pot turned way up?
Your voltages look OK. Some channel imbalance at very low volume levels can be a function of the stock volume pot, but the popping and cutouts you describe are symptomatic of a loose or poorly soldered connection that is still giving you some problems.
IF you wiggle the 12AU7 tube and see the leds go on and off....I will bet you one or both are not soldered well and/or the leds themselves might have a fractured lead and will
need to be replaced even if they light up intermittently...
I had this issue and it was when I was taking in and out tubes searching for audio nirvana and realized when these leds are soldered in with no sttrain relief they will "make and break" over time..
Sometimes work for weeks and then voila pop and no light, wiggle get the led back on until the issue reappers.
I replaced the leds on the 12AU7 and bent the leads to allow for some movement...even then you have to be careful removing and inserting tubes..
Good Luck
Alex
need to be replaced even if they light up intermittently...
I had this issue and it was when I was taking in and out tubes searching for audio nirvana and realized when these leds are soldered in with no sttrain relief they will "make and break" over time..
Sometimes work for weeks and then voila pop and no light, wiggle get the led back on until the issue reappers.
I replaced the leds on the 12AU7 and bent the leads to allow for some movement...even then you have to be careful removing and inserting tubes..
Good Luck
Alex
After a lot of reflowing and chopsticking every joing on the 9 pin, I have fixed most of the problems. I will continue using it to see if any problems resurface. The only issue now is there is a very quite high pitch ringing, almost like a harmonic, in the right channel. It's very quite and will occasionally fade in and out. Any thoughts on that? I can only assume it has to still be centered around the 9 pin socket.
And thank you to everyone who helped me get this far. It feels so good to have made progress!
And thank you to everyone who helped me get this far. It feels so good to have made progress!
That could be related to your phone's cellular broadcast or some other nearby appliance.
The static/fuzz keeps resurfacing. I have two observations as I been trying to pinpoint what the exact problem is.
1. Using a thin wooden skewer, I poked and prodded until the crackling and distortion stopped. I left the amp running all night and found that when I listened to it, it still sounded great; no issues. But when I turned it off and let it rest for a few hours and then turned it on again, the issues arose again. Does temperature (heating up, staying hot, cooling off) play an issue? If so, does it reveal anything meaningful in terms of troubleshooting?
2. When I first built the crack, my voltages were off and one LED wouldn't light up. Through the help of the forum, I soldered a wire between A3 and A8 and the problem was alleviated. Now, if I poke the socket in the right way, I can sometimes get both LEDs to light up. Additionally, it appears as though A3 and A8 and maybe the center pin with the LEDs is the primary culprit for the left channel dropping out and the static/fuzz to occur. I am wondering if this means those joints need to be reflowed or if maybe the wire between 3 and 8 should be removed.
Fingers crossed we can finally resolve this soon! Thanks.
1. Using a thin wooden skewer, I poked and prodded until the crackling and distortion stopped. I left the amp running all night and found that when I listened to it, it still sounded great; no issues. But when I turned it off and let it rest for a few hours and then turned it on again, the issues arose again. Does temperature (heating up, staying hot, cooling off) play an issue? If so, does it reveal anything meaningful in terms of troubleshooting?
2. When I first built the crack, my voltages were off and one LED wouldn't light up. Through the help of the forum, I soldered a wire between A3 and A8 and the problem was alleviated. Now, if I poke the socket in the right way, I can sometimes get both LEDs to light up. Additionally, it appears as though A3 and A8 and maybe the center pin with the LEDs is the primary culprit for the left channel dropping out and the static/fuzz to occur. I am wondering if this means those joints need to be reflowed or if maybe the wire between 3 and 8 should be removed.
Fingers crossed we can finally resolve this soon! Thanks.
I would get the LED pack from us and replace the LEDs between the center pin of the 9 pin socket and A3/A8. If you can get the solder off the center pin, all the better.
A loose joint on the center pin of the 9 pin socket will create intermittent channel drops. Overheating the LEDs can damage them too, so it's best to leave the leads a little long and wrap them on each end so the solder has an easier job to do.
A loose joint on the center pin of the 9 pin socket will create intermittent channel drops. Overheating the LEDs can damage them too, so it's best to leave the leads a little long and wrap them on each end so the solder has an easier job to do.
I think we can mark this solved!!!
After I ordered the LED pack, I made one last ditch effort to futz with the 9 pin socket. I reflowed the A3, A8, center pin and A3 > A8 connection. I also poked and prodded the two LEDs. One of the LEDs was pushed a bit further into the center hole. And that did it. No channel imbalance or distortion or fuzz.
I will hold onto the new LEDs I ordered just in case. But I have had two days in a row of smooth listening so I think it's safe to say we are out of the woods. I hope my trials and tribulations can help another wayward soul who has a similar issue.
Thanks so much for your help and patience!
After I ordered the LED pack, I made one last ditch effort to futz with the 9 pin socket. I reflowed the A3, A8, center pin and A3 > A8 connection. I also poked and prodded the two LEDs. One of the LEDs was pushed a bit further into the center hole. And that did it. No channel imbalance or distortion or fuzz.
I will hold onto the new LEDs I ordered just in case. But I have had two days in a row of smooth listening so I think it's safe to say we are out of the woods. I hope my trials and tribulations can help another wayward soul who has a similar issue.
Thanks so much for your help and patience!
