Choke specs for the Crack

Mark, Geary, thanks, very helpful and much appreciate your holding my hand. Think I am on the same page now.

I had edited my above post re the bleeder as I actually had an inkling that's what it was for after pondering over the schematic some more.
 
Thanks Paul with the Crack is there any particular reason as two why the second resistor is normally replaced by the choke and not the first one?
 
Hmm, I think I remember looking at simulations of replacing either resistor and concluding that it didn't make a whole lot of difference.
 
There are two schools of thought:

On the one hand, the choke can pick up magnetic-field hum, typically from the nearby power transformer. So the choke should replace the FIRST resistor, allowing the later RC stage to attenuate any hum that gets into the choke.

On the other hand, the choke provides a higher impedance than a resistor, so if the last (third) capacitor is a high-audio-quality cap then you want it to isolate it as much as possible from the earlier, crappier capacitors in the power supply. So the choke should replace the LAST resistor, and be located and oriented to minimize pickup from any nearby magnetic component.
 
Thanks wonderful info I feel like I'm getting a bit of education.

Does a choke get hot and need air to circulate round it to cool?

If I mount as in the pic below perhaps I can incorporate some form of shielding from the transformer with the materials used for the offset mounting some metal or composite channel section to create a base and partial sides or cover in copper foil shielding tape.

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If you figure that the choke dissipates roughly the same heat as the 270 Ohm 5 Watt resistor, consider how much larger the choke is!  Consequently, it will get warm, but not particularly hot. 

I wouldn't shield the transformer or choke unless there is evidence that it is necessary.  For example, if you laid your choke down so that it was oriented identically to the power transformer, you might need to expend that effort. 
 
I tried multiple positions with the 10H chokes i installed into my S.E.X. amp and didn't detect any interference issues.  The two 150H chokes in the quickie were a different story though, they could detect a mains lead the other side of the room!
 
Ok noted.

My Choke arrived earlier today which I thought was very quick unfortunately they sent me the a Triad C3X 10H 50mA by mistake the good news when I contacted the shop they said they would put a Triad C7X in the post straight away and I could keep the C3X! 
 
If you opt for dual chokes don't mount them side by side.  If they must be close mount them at 90 degrees to each other.  But if you put them on opposite sides of the amp that should suffice for isolation.
 
OK thanks.

another question:  What are differences between the Triad C7-X and the Hammond 193C ? Is there a better one ?
As I plan to put the two choke on the top of the chassis, the Hammond  will look better...
 
The C7-X is a direct replacement for one of the resistors, where as the 193C would need a bit of a circuit tweak to work, though the 193C is the equivalent of two C7X's in terms of inductance.
 
captain widwiki said:
...
another question:  What are differences between the Triad C7-X and the Hammond 193C ? Is there a better one ? ...
Well they are both chokes LOL ...  The 193 weighs more than three times as much, has twice the inductance and a similar current rating, has 2/3 the DC resistance, it's enclosed instead of open frame, and it's mounted vertically. Costs a lot more, too.

Incidentally, I believe the current-production C7-X is in fact made by Hammond, to the original Triad specs (more or less). The original was chosen back in the days of the original S.E.X. amp (we are fast approaching the 20th anniversary of that seminal product!) because it was available from Allied at significantly less cost than other chokes of similar specs. It's been a go-to workhorse for Bottlehead in several applications, mostly because it works and we know its foibles.

Fortunately, a power supply choke is not usually a critical component. For Crack, you want a current rating of 70mA or more, and probably a DC resistance of 200-350 ohms to keep the power supply voltage pretty close to original. I don't think either PB (the designer) or I have actually modeled a choke power supply for this application, so no comment on the best inductance. There have been discussions on how to model power supplies, and what behavior is best, at the Tube-DIY Asylum. But go there with your cynicism intact and post wiht your flame suit on - there is a LOT of misinformation surrounding the good stuff, and people get pretty excitable on the subject.
 
Hi all, just wanted to say thanks to all those who helped hold my hand with the choke installation details and share a couple of pics of how its turned out. Keeping the fasteners out of sight behind the transformer worked well I intend to go back over the connection with some better insulation or shrink wrap to make the connections look a bit more tidy at a later date.   

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mcandmar said:
The C7-X is a direct replacement for one of the resistors, where as the 193C would need a bit of a circuit tweak to work, though the 193C is the equivalent of two C7X's in terms of inductance.

What kind of circuit tweak is needed for the 193c?
 
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