capacitor recommendation

Adding CCS loads are the biggest upgrade I have experienced.  In most cases capacitors are cheaper. This is not the case for the Quickie.  So That would be the logical next step.
 
Okay, I realize this thread has been dormant for a while, but in looking up some K75's on Ebay, I ran across these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-5uF-100V-5-PMGP-PIO-Capacitors-Lot-of-4pcs-/261230183572?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cd2884494

Anybody with experience with these?  The description says PIO and "Excellent for audio applications."  Russian 5uF (100V) so should work for the Quickie, and cheap.  Shape is bit unusual, but what the hey.

Also, I commented on this in another thread, but a related discussion has been part of this thread.  The PJCCS is a definite bang for buck upgrade for the Quickie.  I was hesitant to install it, but glad I did.  Highly recommended IMO.

--Tad
 
Paully put a pair (maybe 2 pair) of very similar caps in his crossover.  I don't remember if it was the Valencias or the Model 19s that he now uses.  The 100V rating is too low for any Bottlehead electronics except the Quickie.

But they are perfect for crossovers!

They impart a smooth sound.  They are not exactly laid back and have nice detail.

I hope this helps.
 
Thanks, Grainger.  I was ready to order last night so I ended up ordering some K75's, plus a pair of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MBGP-2-Paper-PIO-capacitors-3-9uF-200V-10-Lot-of-2-/251095918815?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a767ba8df

Similar to the ones I mentioned above, but these are 3.9 uF (200V).  I figured if they were no good, the lesson would not be too expensive.  They were less than $12 for the pair, including shipping. Soon it will be time to hook up some jumpers in the Quickie. 

--Tad
 
Grainger I have also been following your advice and picked up a pack of ten jumper leads off of ebay.

I have a few more capacitors to try out with my Crack on the way  ;D

CED006100_5_zpsb4151518.jpg
 
Somewhere in the Eros folder I posted about rolling caps.  I believe I also posted a picture of the line up.  I had removed the stock Solens and they were in the mix.  All I had was a pair of jumpers coming from under my Eros, maybe two for length.  But this allowed me to put in one or two KK Teflon 0.22uF, stock Solens and the winner Mundorf Gold/Silver/Oil.

I could never have made the decision soldering them in.  And you can be assured there is less noise and a better connection when you solder in your choice.
 
Hi Grainger a little update on my speaker crossover mod. In the end I went for the standard JFX 3.3uf audio film cap, its smaller size made it a breeze to install on the crossover board. I am becoming a bit of a fan of these caps and am really chuffed at the improvement I am hearing which is now cleaner and more extended than before.

The speakers are a old pair Mordaunt Short MS15 bookshelfs, which I brought new about 25 years ago. They seem to have followed me around garage, workshop etc now back in the house. I see they can be picked up via fleebay for around $30 a pair. Chuffed for $6 the film caps cost. Its got me thinking now about picking up another pair to do the same with for the workshop.

I have some MS floorstanders which are going to get the same treatment, keeping my fingers crossed for similar results.

Jamie

 
The sad truth is that because most people aren't even aware of the crossovers, they are the first thing to get compromised with cheap parts.  Pretty much all factory made speakers skimp here.  Yes, even $$$$$ speakers.  Depends on the manufacturer.  If it's an inexpensive speaker it's almost guaranteed to have the cheap, high tolerance parts, poor layouts, steel core inductors where air core would be superior (but bigger and more expensive.)

Replacing the caps is a sure way to improve the clarity.  Decent air-core inductors can improve power handling and bass performance.  Precision non-inductive resistors can also make a minor improvement.  Bypass caps for the caps in series with the drivers can help improve transients.

I've improved several speakers this way.
 
Jamie,

I did a Google search and the first few hits are only 3.3uF JFX caps.  Finally I found a US site with a selection.

The seller I frequented from Woodstock Ga. had a good selection of the smaller Mordaunt Short speakers.  He favored Spendors for larger ones.  Nice sound from the MS speakers.

Rob, It is disheartening how awful the components in a $2,000 speakers' crossover look like.
 
PJ has an off the cuff point, or at least that's how I've experienced it. Don't close yourself to the experience of a capacitor in a circuit (or anything else) until you have tried it first hand. I'm using caps intended for solar panel application currently and couldn't be happier. If it's cheap, and you have the inclination, why not try it! What sounds good to your ears is all that matters in the end!
 
Hi all,

My Soviet caps finally arrived and I have been rolling them, along with the stock caps and some auricaps from my foreplay. I have a question about burn in. What is the quality of the sound that changes with use? I have some K75s and MBGP2s that are both lovely, but distinct from each other. I am having trouble choosing what I like best, but I might choose based on what may happen after some time in the circuit.

Thanks,
Tad
 
My experience with the K75s is that they sound pretty good to begin with and don't go through a ragged highs stage.  The KK Teflons go through that.

The K75s take 50-100 hours, the KK Teflons need 3 weeks of 24/7 burn in.
 
Thank you, Grainger. The K75s are a little scratchy compared to the smooth MBGPs. In a sense, they are just a little more forward. Depending on the source material, I think the K75s could become fatiguing more easily. However, they don't really sound stressed at all, even with some volume.

The MBGPs are 3.9uF compared to the 2.2uF K75s.  The low end of MBGPs is as solid and notably deeper, but with less sparkle. The midrange is butter.  Overall, I think it is a more balanced presentation in my system. If the top end edge of the K75s settles down just a hair, it would simply be a personal preference as to which I would want to solder in.

Over the last hour, I have been playing with both in parallel; still sparkly, and with the deep octave, and coherent throughout. Hmm, I'm liking it.  Maybe I have found what I am looking for.

--Tad
 
How about trying both caps together in parallel if you have room. You get to burn in both set of caps at the same time and can easily and quickly just disconnect and replace the leads of whichever cap you wish to have in the circuit. You might also find you like the combination of the two together.

I really liked the combo of my K75-10 with a K72P6 Teflon they started to sound very nice indeed once they had 200hrs plus on them.

900x900px-LL-003c0b0c_006.jpeg
 
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