Cap upgrades (bear with me)
- Thread starter adamct
- Start date
Grainger49
New member
Bypassing is simply paralleling a better, smaller value cap with the existing cap. Since film caps are not polarized you pick one lead for the plus the other is the minus lead. Getting them on the terminal strip will be not so much fun. Maybe wrap the leads around the bare legs of the existing power supply cap?
Sigh. My caps arrived today. The damn things are huge. And the leads are short. At a minimum, I'm going to have to raise the case height. In the mean time, I have three other concerns/questions:
1. I assume I will have to install "fly leads", which I also assume are just bits of wire that run between the leads on the caps, and the terminals they are supposed to be soldered to. Basically just extension cables for the caps, is that right? Can i just use a bit of the hookup wire i have left over from the Crack kit? Does having leads that long raise any concerns (e.g., risk of picking up interference, etc.)?
2. My caps are ClarityCaps from the ESA series. The outside looks like it is aluminum foil. I assume it would be a bad thing if the cap were to touch other things in the Crack? The one on the left would be at risk of touching terminal 11, the resistor between terminals 12 and 13, and probably a couple of the terminals on the octal socket. That can't be bad, right? :
The one on the right would be at risk of touching terminals 17 and 18, whatever octal terminals the left cap isn't touching, and...um...the left side cap itself.
3. I assume I should just give up and send these caps back, correct? :'(
So frustrating...
1. I assume I will have to install "fly leads", which I also assume are just bits of wire that run between the leads on the caps, and the terminals they are supposed to be soldered to. Basically just extension cables for the caps, is that right? Can i just use a bit of the hookup wire i have left over from the Crack kit? Does having leads that long raise any concerns (e.g., risk of picking up interference, etc.)?
2. My caps are ClarityCaps from the ESA series. The outside looks like it is aluminum foil. I assume it would be a bad thing if the cap were to touch other things in the Crack? The one on the left would be at risk of touching terminal 11, the resistor between terminals 12 and 13, and probably a couple of the terminals on the octal socket. That can't be bad, right? :
The one on the right would be at risk of touching terminals 17 and 18, whatever octal terminals the left cap isn't touching, and...um...the left side cap itself. 3. I assume I should just give up and send these caps back, correct? :'(
So frustrating...
If you want to use film caps you'll have to deal with the space problem.
You can use an Ohm meter to see if the outside is conductive.
I added about 3 inches in height to the base of mine along with a cross brace at the bottom and tie wraps to hold the Auricaps I'm using.
I started off just adding some wire to the leads and setting the caps outside of the orignal base.
Didn't look too good but worked fine.
The ESA's should sound good I've used them in several speaker projects.
You can use an Ohm meter to see if the outside is conductive.
I added about 3 inches in height to the base of mine along with a cross brace at the bottom and tie wraps to hold the Auricaps I'm using.
I started off just adding some wire to the leads and setting the caps outside of the orignal base.
Didn't look too good but worked fine.
The ESA's should sound good I've used them in several speaker projects.
BNAL said:Who needs those little girly electrolytic caps, when you can have a real mans cap like these.
Well I was able to fit the 100uF motor run caps in and I still have the Russian Teflon caps as well. The Teflon caps help to keep those big caps from toughing anything. It is making music, but have not had a chance to do any real listening. I had to increase the depth of the base to fit them in as you can see in the picture.
I used big caps and bypassed them with big Russian 0.22uF Teflon caps. I have since removed those caps a d replaced them with Mundorf caps.
Dont send them back! They are much too beautiful to send back! As others have said, we build our homes AROUND our caps. You can extend the leads. I would use Teflon coated pure silver, or a good solid core copper. If it seems the outside is conductive you can wrap them with electrical tape (banish the thought). Big honkin caps are a thing of pride. Ask Granger if you dont believe me!
Grainger49
New member
Adam,
Yup! Film caps of higher values are BIG ! ! Consider the size of a 1uF film cap. You bought 100uF. But they sound very, very good!
I'm a confessed capacitor junkie. I have a pair of big oilers, see the post 2 above me, in my FP 2 Pseudo Dual Mono Power Supply set up. Those are bypassed with KK (Kommie Kap) PIO and KK Teflon caps. Ok, I'm a strange man but my wife loves me.
You could attach the caps to the sides of the base and use stranded wire to attach them to the circuit. Stranded is much more flexible and will withstand repeated flexing without breaking.
Yup! Film caps of higher values are BIG ! ! Consider the size of a 1uF film cap. You bought 100uF. But they sound very, very good!
I'm a confessed capacitor junkie. I have a pair of big oilers, see the post 2 above me, in my FP 2 Pseudo Dual Mono Power Supply set up. Those are bypassed with KK (Kommie Kap) PIO and KK Teflon caps. Ok, I'm a strange man but my wife loves me.
You could attach the caps to the sides of the base and use stranded wire to attach them to the circuit. Stranded is much more flexible and will withstand repeated flexing without breaking.
Grainger49
New member
You are right. However, first touch the leads together so you have a feeling for the exact zero on your meter.
