C2A Build

Jameson

Intern in Chief
Staff member
I figured I’d join the fun and build one of the kits I haven’t yet listened to. One of the perks of owning the joint.

I’d like to invite Paul Birkeland to look away as I post photos and videos. My soldering is better than it was but I don’t want to hear any potshots when I’m in Washington next month to shoot the manual for our next release.

First up, the paint job. I went with matte black on the power transformer and tube socket clamps, and a gunmetal grey on the chassis plate. IMG_4708.jpeg
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I also ordered black torx screws from McMaster Carr, and a black Neutrik headphone jack to complete the look. The stock alder base is sanded to about 3500 grit and rubbed with Odie’s Oil.

IMG_4846.jpeg

I’m trying my hand at shooting some video for the Bottlehead YouTube channel (no promises, I think the initial stuff turned out pretty bad). More to come.
 
Looks great so far. Is there any downside of painted tube socket clamps? I really like them painted black BTW.
Another Q: is the gunmetal gray paint also in matte finish?
 
Looks great so far. Is there any downside of painted tube socket clamps? I really like them painted black BTW.
Another Q: is the gunmetal gray paint also in matte finish?
The socket clamps aren’t part of the circuit, so the only downside is having to paint them and potentially scratching them when installing them or handling tubes.

The gunmetal gray is also matte, yes.
 
Jameson speaks with the ease of a guy who orders stuff from McMaster Carr weekly. It's so easy to tack a few things onto the the regular Bottlehead parts orders since that extra $13 of shipping is already covered. Now that I am a civilian I can relate to you guys who don't need piles of boxes of nuts and bolts you had to order 25 of when you only needed three. Not sure if they carry the same stuff all over the country, but the Do It Best Hardware in my town is an absolute treasure when I need just a few pieces of a certain screw. Best inventory by far, even better than the locally infamous Tacoma Screw - "I got screwed at Tacoma Screw" is a saying out here. Not cheap, but you don't have to buy a box of 100.
 
I would love to get black screws for my crack. McMaster is, I think, 25 to a box. To get the hardware you need, plus tax and shipping, isn’t very feasible. Maybe a local Fastenall or something would work. Definitely has to be local. I can’t find anything online for just a few screws.
 
Punch holes the size of your not-black screws in a piece of cardboard. Insert screws so just the heads are exposed. Shoot the heads with rattle can flat black. Let them dry very well and just be a little careful with the screwdriver to avoid chipping the black. I've used that trick many, many times over the years. This finish will hold up much better than black oxide mild steel screws, which tend to rust with time. Blackened stainless screws don't have the rust issue but can be harder to find.
 
Punch holes the size of your not-black screws in a piece of cardboard. Insert screws so just the heads are exposed. Shoot the heads with rattle can flat black. Let them dry very well and just be a little careful with the screwdriver to avoid chipping the black. I've used that trick many, many times over the years. This finish will hold up much better than black oxide mild steel screws, which tend to rust with time. Blackened stainless screws don't have the rust issue but can be harder to find.
Great idea!!! Thanks Doc!
 
I also ordered black torx screws from McMaster Carr, and a black Neutrik headphone jack to complete the look. The stock alder base is sanded to about 3500 grit and rubbed with Odie’s Oil.
the Neutrik headphpone jack which comes with the kit can sometimes be a pain to use. Mine was too tight and it was a struggle to get the headphone out sometimes. I switched to the balanced jack which comes with the Mainline (wired as TRS) and it is so much better to use.. hopefully this suggestion might be of some help to you..

You plan to go all the way with the build? Meaning the stepped attenuator too?
 
I’ve done a miserable job posting in-progress pictures but I have been taking video that I am trying to edit into something.

That said, it’s done! 51BC7027-4E5F-4D4D-8373-AB2E4D7ABD01.jpegIMG_4875.jpeg
the Neutrik headphpone jack which comes with the kit can sometimes be a pain to use. Mine was too tight and it was a struggle to get the headphone out sometimes. I switched to the balanced jack which comes with the Mainline (wired as TRS) and it is so much better to use.. hopefully this suggestion might be of some help to you..

You plan to go all the way with the build? Meaning the stepped attenuator too?
It’s the nature of those locking headphone jacks. I complained about this to PB who reminded me that removing them meant ticking off half the audience who loves them and re-doing the manual (which is a chore). I don’t have any use for a balanced jack; it isn’t truly balanced in this implementation anyway.

I’m practicing what I preach and will run this stock for a while before upgrading to the stepped attenuator, but I plan to build every kit we offer. At this point that leaves this upgrade, the Moreplay and its upgrade, and our new kit TBA.
 
I would love to get black screws for my crack. McMaster is, I think, 25 to a box. To get the hardware you need, plus tax and shipping, isn’t very feasible. Maybe a local Fastenall or something would work. Definitely has to be local. I can’t find anything online for just a few screws.
Try boltdepot.com. They might make your life just the slightest bit better overnight if you're like me and you need a handful of certain screws for most tasks. They have a very large selection of fasteners and let you buy exactly what you need. Also, if you happen to to be in the right part of Massachusetts and can pick things up from them, they do have a physical location where you wouldn't need to worry about shipping.
 
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